ARK GT-S, SPL Camber Arms, Alignment, etc, etc...

Rusty

Sorry, thought you had the SPL arms. Since you are going lower. You might want to think about getting them or something like them. You might end up with more camber then you want in the front.

The caster and the suspension for the Nismo and the base is the same but for coilover dampening and spring rate.

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ChopsZ

No apology needed.

Again, just random conflicting misinformation I keep reading around here, some saying the Nismo comes stock with 8*+ caster, and some say it's the same as the base (5*+) such as you.

According to CM370z, I should be sitting at right around -2.1 front and -3.0 rear.

I've also read that it's better to have more camber in the front than in the rear to better balance the Z. So maybe keep the -2.1 in the front (it doesn't look drastic at all right now), and drop the rear down to around stock or just a little more (-1.5 to -1.7), little to no toe front and rear.

Again, I'm sure the guys at Vortex Motorsport will know best.

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She's For Sale! PERFORMANCE: Aero Workz | Akebono | BC Racing | EcuTek | HKS | MaxBore | Motordyne | Nismo | RJM | SPL | StopTech | Z1
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Rusty

I do both track and DD the Z. I have my front settings at -2.0 camber, +7 caster, and 1/32" in toe. The rear is set at 1.75 camber, and 1/132" in toe. The rear suspension has one hellish camber curve. The more it squats, the more -camber it gets. The -3 rear camber you mention is a bit much for the street. The -1.5 to -1.7 would be about perfect for you. You do want some toe in on both front and rear. Zero toe in the rear will give you a condition called snap-oversteer. Ok for the track, scarier then hell on the street. It's when the rear just snaps out faster then you can think. It doesn't drift out like you think it should. It's great for getting the car to rotate in the middle of the turn. Zero toe, you loose stabilize for steering quickness.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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ChopsZ

Okay, so a little toe in front and rear.

Due to the 1.5" drop, I'm pretty much locked in to a -2 -ish camber in the front which shouldn't be bad on the tires. I was running -2.6 on my '91 Miata with no wear issues, and it gripped like a mother! I think caster is increased some as well went lowered, but not sure. Again, I'm pretty much locked in to whatever the drop gives me until I pony up the cash for some adjustable UCA's.

In the rear, keep things around the -1.5 to -1.7 should be the target. That will help keep the sidewalls a little further away from the wheel well also.

Again, I'm sure all of this will be determined by the performance shop next week.

And yes, I know about snap oversteer. It's a nasty thing if you don't know how to react to it, and I don't.


One last thing which kind of isn't related, and I'm pretty sure I already know the answer, but I plan on getting a Hotchkis front sway in the very near future. Swapping out the stocker for the Hotchkis, that won't mess up the alignment, will it?

I don't think it will, but just wanted to ask.

Thanks a bunch for all of the great info, Rusty! That's the kind of help I was looking for from the beginning.

And just for fun...

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She's For Sale! PERFORMANCE: Aero Workz | Akebono | BC Racing | EcuTek | HKS | MaxBore | Motordyne | Nismo | RJM | SPL | StopTech | Z1
AUDIO: Arc Audio | Bazooka | Helix | Pioneer | Stereo Integrity