ARK GT-S, SPL Camber Arms, Alignment, etc, etc...
 

Alright guys, looking for some suggestions here... I'll be installing ARK GT-S lowering springs (1.5" F, 1.25" R), SPL toe bolts, SPL camber arms, Z1 lockout bolts this weekend. I want to have an alignment similar to stock as far as even tire wear and longevity. Completely street only car with a little aggressive driving in the corners. So maybe as close as possible to stock alignment with just a touch of camber and some caster.

Your thoughts? Suggestions?

243 views and... Zip.

What's there to say? Install you parts, get an alignment to factory specs, and enjoy.

Camber? Caster? Toe front and rear?

I don't know why it's the hardest thing to look up for this car, and it seems like no one wants to divulge information about it. And a home made chart that shows min, average and max doesn't really help either.

WTF?!

I have the same springs with stock arms and bolts. I can tell you that you'll get -2.1 degree camber up front and -3.0 in the rear. Your SPL camber arms should help with that and tune it to about -1.5 all round. As far as caster and toe, that can be fixed to stock spec with an alignment.

For alignment settings. How do you use the Z. DD, trackday, or some where inbetween?

Already stated in first post...

Well, instead of reading a bunch of totally random "alignment specs" from everyone, not knowing who's right and who's wrong because everyone disputes everyone else's specs, I'm making it simple for myself.

Instead of settling on going to Kauffman Tire right down the road from me with no idea on proper specs for my needs, I've decided to drive 50 miles away to Vortex Motorsport in Tampa to get a proper alignment done by people who know these cars, the aftermarket parts for them, and the knowledge of properly adjusting those aftermarket parts to my needs and wants.

I know darn well if I went to Kauffman, those guys would stare at that SPL camber arm like it's a UFO.

The best part is, Vortex is only a few bucks more, and well worth it. Plus I get to drive my Z another 100+ miles instead of just putzing around town.

Glad you are going to a performance place. For alignment spec's and what you said about your driving. I would stay close to stock settings. With the SPL upper control arms. You now can change the caster. Set the caster at +6.

I don't have the front UCA's, only rear camber arms, toe bolts and lock-out bolts. Other than the springs, the front is all stock.

If caster isn't adjustable in the front, then what's the difference between the base and Nismo front suspension?

From the pics I've seen, the both look identical, yet base caster is around 5.5* and Nismo is just over 8*.

Sorry, thought you had the SPL arms. Since you are going lower. You might want to think about getting them or something like them. You might end up with more camber then you want in the front.

The caster and the suspension for the Nismo and the base is the same but for coilover dampening and spring rate.

No apology needed. ;)

Again, just random conflicting misinformation I keep reading around here, some saying the Nismo comes stock with 8*+ caster, and some say it's the same as the base (5*+) such as you.

According to CM370z, I should be sitting at right around -2.1 front and -3.0 rear.

I've also read that it's better to have more camber in the front than in the rear to better balance the Z. So maybe keep the -2.1 in the front (it doesn't look drastic at all right now), and drop the rear down to around stock or just a little more (-1.5 to -1.7), little to no toe front and rear.

Again, I'm sure the guys at Vortex Motorsport will know best.

I do both track and DD the Z. I have my front settings at -2.0 camber, +7 caster, and 1/32" in toe. The rear is set at 1.75 camber, and 1/132" in toe. The rear suspension has one hellish camber curve. The more it squats, the more -camber it gets. The -3 rear camber you mention is a bit much for the street. The -1.5 to -1.7 would be about perfect for you. You do want some toe in on both front and rear. Zero toe in the rear will give you a condition called snap-oversteer. Ok for the track, scarier then hell on the street. It's when the rear just snaps out faster then you can think. It doesn't drift out like you think it should. It's great for getting the car to rotate in the middle of the turn. Zero toe, you loose stabilize for steering quickness.

What are your wheel & tire spec's? that will be helpful.

I'm -0.75* camber all 4 corner's on street & drives great; even tire wear & even handled the "Dragon" @ Zdayz....i would push it to (0*camber) but i'd have the Mexiflush look w/345's on 12's.