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Originally Posted by SINISTER Why is the rear spring rates stiffer on our cars? Nismo Spring Rates: F - 8.6kgf/mm (480lbs/inch) R - 9.3kgf/mm (520lbs/inch) Then when looking at coilover
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A True Z Fanatic
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You know, this is a great idea if I ever go on road trips. It's also incredibly easy to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
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I am going to try this too....just PM'd you.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Not to be able to stop thinking is a dreadful affliction, but we don't realize this because almost everybody is suffering from it, so it is considered normal. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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yeah I am still running this setup. it is perfect for the nasty roads here in cali. I kept the stock shocks just in case I felt I needed to go racing someday. anyway I have always had rear wheel drive cars and my butt dyno tells me to keep it stiff up front and a little softer in the rear (with in reason) based on total horsepower you have to work with. (come in hot and leave with everything you got.) ha ha or something like that
Last edited by pearlwhite1; 05-14-2017 at 09:35 AM. Reason: miss spelled |
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A True Z Fanatic
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They're just dialing out the inherent understeer by increasing the rear spring rate at the cost of ride quality. You can change the sway bar diameter but any increase is just tying both halves the the suspension together even more so than the stock setup. And the Z has a massively staggered tire setup too which doesn't help in that department. I ended up with a square setup on my G and it made a very noticeable difference in the car's neutrality. I use a 12f/10r setup and I'd consider going down 1-2K in the rear but then I'd bring the understeer back. On decent roads, it's a brilliant setup with body roll virtually eliminated. It'll get a little firm out back while on really nasty roads but the fronts always seem to work really well. I've been driving round Southern California for the past few days and they'd be borderline acceptable. Had no idea Cali had such poor roads. If the rear sport shocks don't do it for you, and you're willing to wait a few weeks, order a set of the Aragostas. No real downside and they're the only kit that can keep you at stock ride height (even above) and they have superior response/damping compared to the Nismo shocks. Another option is to go with Infiniti IPL shocks. Same as the Nismo shocks with slightly different valving. I found they did not have enough low speed compression damping but the ride was super comfy and otherwise spot-on in the handling dept. No crashing or otherwise out of control body movement (and on a heavier car).
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'13 Audi RS5 Misano w/mods-The Red Mist '13 G37 IPL-SOLD |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I guess it does not matter as I will keep the nismo dampers in case I go to the track....
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Not to be able to stop thinking is a dreadful affliction, but we don't realize this because almost everybody is suffering from it, so it is considered normal. Last edited by SINISTER; 04-25-2017 at 12:56 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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"Wheel Rate is the actual rate of a spring acting at the tire contact patch" Simplifying the exercise by using 90 degree spring angle, motion ratio of approximately 0.65 front and 0.55 rear, I am getting wheel rate of 3.6kg and 2.8kg respectively. So, at the OEM spring location, the front is still heavier sprung than the rear. This is my simple understanding.
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 04-25-2017 at 02:56 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Just purchased the rear sport shocks brand new...I will report back when I get them installed on the ride improvement!
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#13 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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Hey I thought I would share my confusion with everyone regarding the sport shocks...and what I found out.
In 2013 (the year of my car) they had 3 shock options. 1 for the base model, 1 for the sport model and 1 for the Nismo. Shocks for base are 1EA1E and in 2013 and they used 1EA2A for the sport model. Apparently the sport model in 2013 got a shock upgrade they called "euro tuned." ![]() Before that it appears that the base and the sport shared the same 1EA1E shocks (pre 2013)...perhaps the sport package had stiffer springs or different suspension parts that warranted calling it a "sport" Nonetheless if you get the sport shocks pre 2013 your actually getting the same shocks used in the base model in all the years from 2009 to 2014.
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Not to be able to stop thinking is a dreadful affliction, but we don't realize this because almost everybody is suffering from it, so it is considered normal. Last edited by SINISTER; 04-29-2017 at 05:59 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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As far as I know, they used the same shocks wether it was a base or sport package for the pre-13's. only the Nismo's have a different shock and spring setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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So I installed part number E6210-1EA2A : Euro Tuned 2013 sport shocks today....
I will say the ride improved ....it now feels like a normal sports car, allot like my C6 corvette did. Instead of a spine smasher....this is what I was looking for. I purchased them new for approximately 300. Saved about 1k instead of buying coilovers, maintained the ride height which was my goal, and improved the ride in town. If I go to the track I can switch out to the Nismo shocks. Pretty easy to switch them out too...
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