Super New at Suspension

Bshields22 · 04-07-2016, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Thanks Rusty for such great info! I have some follow up questions then. I’m looking at Z1 Motorsports and there are 3 different control arms to choose from.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-7360.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...ms-p-8534.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-3982.html

Are all 3 good for what I need? What would you suspect is causing such a price difference? I’m thinking to 2nd option would be best.
Also, I’m looking at the Hotchkis Sway bars you recommended. Some offerings online come in a kit for both axels. Are you saying only get the front and keep the rear suspension fully stock?

Rusty · 04-07-2016, 01:04 PM

The first upper control arm you listed is the best one, and the easiest one to adjust. With the SPL arms. You don't have to remove it from the car to make adjustments. You can adjust both camber and caster. This is the arm I have.

The second is the Z1 arm. It's harder to adjust camber. If you want to adjust caster. You have to remove it from the car. You have 2 options, bushings or bearings at the chassis mounting point.

The third arm. The SPC. Is ok for street use. Mostly only adjustable for camber. It's not easy to adjust either. Some have complained, it has a hard time holding it's setting at the track.

Some places only sell both front and rear bars Hotchkis together. I run the rear bar set on the softest setting sometimes. Only because of my rear tire size. 345/30-19.

You can run the Hotchkis rear bar, but think you will switch back to the stock bar. Adjust the car to your liking.

Bshields22 · 04-07-2016, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

The first upper control arm you listed is the best one, and the easiest one to adjust. With the SPL arms. You don't have to remove it from the car to make adjustments. You can adjust both camber and caster. This is the arm I have.

The second is the Z1 arm. It's harder to adjust camber. If you want to adjust caster. You have to remove it from the car. You have 2 options, bushings or bearings at the chassis mounting point.

The third arm. The SPC. Is ok for street use. Mostly only adjustable for camber. It's not easy to adjust either. Some have complained, it has a hard time holding it's setting at the track.

Some places only sell both front and rear bars Hotchkis together. I run the rear bar set on the softest setting sometimes. Only because of my rear tire size. 345/30-19.

You can run the Hotchkis rear bar, but think you will switch back to the stock bar. Adjust the car to your liking.

Dude, you're awesome! Thank you for all this info, I really appreciate your time and help on this. I'll have to have a conversation with my checking account to see what we agree on lol. This is def on the list of next mods.

Thanks again!

Rusty · 04-07-2016, 02:07 PM

If you are tracking your Z. You need to read this.

Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

Bshields22 · 04-11-2016, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

If you are tracking your Z. You need to read this.

Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ

Hey Rusty,

I came across some more info and now I have another question. With a sport package stock suspension, if you add a sway bar, do you need aftermarket endlinks with the assumption the car will be tracked? From what I have read recently, you will only need them if the car is lowered.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks man!

Rusty · 04-11-2016, 07:02 PM

If you change sway bars. And the stock ones are still good. Save yourself some coin and use the stock ones. If they show some play in the joints. Replace them with the SPL links. Most change the links because it's a good time to do so when changing the sway bars. Also with the SPL's. You can preload (fine tune) the bar. Most don't know anything about that. It's a serious racer thing. I wouldn't worry about it.

Bshields22 · 04-11-2016, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

If you change sway bars. And the stock ones are still good. Save yourself some coin and use the stock ones. If they show some play in the joints. Replace them with the SPL links. Most change the links because it's a good time to do so when changing the sway bars. Also with the SPL's. You can preload (fine tune) the bar. Most don't know anything about that. It's a serious racer thing. I wouldn't worry about it.

Cool thanks man!

Slartibartfas · 04-14-2016, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

...
The second is the Z1 arm. It's harder to adjust camber. If you want to adjust caster. You have to remove it from the car. You have 2 options, bushings or bearings at the chassis mounting point...

At least one guy on the G37 forums has had two Heim joint failures on his Z1 arms.

04-07-2016, 01:04 PM	#2 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,550 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684439	The first upper control arm you listed is the best one, and the easiest one to adjust. With the SPL arms. You don't have to remove it from the car to make adjustments. You can adjust both camber and caster. This is the arm I have. The second is the Z1 arm. It's harder to adjust camber. If you want to adjust caster. You have to remove it from the car. You have 2 options, bushings or bearings at the chassis mounting point. The third arm. The SPC. Is ok for street use. Mostly only adjustable for camber. It's not easy to adjust either. Some have complained, it has a hard time holding it's setting at the track. Some places only sell both front and rear bars Hotchkis together. I run the rear bar set on the softest setting sometimes. Only because of my rear tire size. 345/30-19. You can run the Hotchkis rear bar, but think you will switch back to the stock bar. Adjust the car to your liking. DEpointfive0 and Bshields22 like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html Last edited by Rusty; 04-07-2016 at 01:07 PM.

04-07-2016, 02:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,550 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684439	If you are tracking your Z. You need to read this. Track Day Best Practices - MUST READ __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

04-11-2016, 07:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 69 Posts: 35,550 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684439	If you change sway bars. And the stock ones are still good. Save yourself some coin and use the stock ones. If they show some play in the joints. Replace them with the SPL links. Most change the links because it's a good time to do so when changing the sway bars. Also with the SPL's. You can preload (fine tune) the bar. Most don't know anything about that. It's a serious racer thing. I wouldn't worry about it. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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