Super New at Suspension
 

Hey guys,

A few NOOB questions:

1. Do sway bars prevent positive camber? I know they help with rolling. I find that I am getting some outside tread chew with stock sport suspension and factory alignment when going hard with street tires on the track (Potenza S-04 Pole Position)

2. How far can you push negative camber SAFELY on a stock sport package set up for the track

3. If you are on a budget what would be the first thing you would do for suspension/handling. A set of race tires and rims is out of the question btw. Looking to keep my sport package rims and tires. Are Camber arms really THAT necessary? I'm a casual track day guy really just looking to prevent outside tire chew.

Thanks guys!

:driving:

Thanks Rusty for such great info! I have some follow up questions then. I’m looking at Z1 Motorsports and there are 3 different control arms to choose from.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-7360.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...ms-p-8534.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-3982.html

Are all 3 good for what I need? What would you suspect is causing such a price difference? I’m thinking to 2nd option would be best.
Also, I’m looking at the Hotchkis Sway bars you recommended. Some offerings online come in a kit for both axels. Are you saying only get the front and keep the rear suspension fully stock?

The first upper control arm you listed is the best one, and the easiest one to adjust. With the SPL arms. You don't have to remove it from the car to make adjustments. You can adjust both camber and caster. This is the arm I have.

The second is the Z1 arm. It's harder to adjust camber. If you want to adjust caster. You have to remove it from the car. You have 2 options, bushings or bearings at the chassis mounting point.

The third arm. The SPC. Is ok for street use. Mostly only adjustable for camber. It's not easy to adjust either. Some have complained, it has a hard time holding it's setting at the track.

Some places only sell both front and rear bars Hotchkis together. I run the rear bar set on the softest setting sometimes. Only because of my rear tire size. 345/30-19. :D You can run the Hotchkis rear bar, but think you will switch back to the stock bar. Adjust the car to your liking.

Dude, you're awesome! Thank you for all this info, I really appreciate your time and help on this. I'll have to have a conversation with my checking account to see what we agree on lol. This is def on the list of next mods.

Thanks again!

If you are tracking your Z. You need to read this. ;)

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...must-read.html

Hey Rusty,

I came across some more info and now I have another question. With a sport package stock suspension, if you add a sway bar, do you need aftermarket endlinks with the assumption the car will be tracked? From what I have read recently, you will only need them if the car is lowered.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks man!

If you change sway bars. And the stock ones are still good. Save yourself some coin and use the stock ones. If they show some play in the joints. Replace them with the SPL links. Most change the links because it's a good time to do so when changing the sway bars. Also with the SPL's. You can preload (fine tune) the bar. Most don't know anything about that. It's a serious racer thing. I wouldn't worry about it.

Cool thanks man!

At least one guy on the G37 forums has had two Heim joint failures on his Z1 arms.

So first track day coming up for me in a month or so and just running Oem Sport package with stillen front and rear bars to allow me some tuning when I get there (current set to mid/mid and really liked the improvement) I see a trend of staying stock rear bar which seems odd to me as all factory cars have built in understeer and adding a stiffer front bar will just make that worse but I guess I will find out once I start pushing it at the track. On the street I liked the rear bars change and seems to keep the car more balanced and not want to push in off camber rolling turns.

I didn't think I would want to change the factory suspension but I am beginning to get curious about the KW or BC setups for their adjustability. If I go with either and put them at max height as I don't really wish to lower the car will I still need camber arms front and rear?

If so I am thinking the z1 or kinetic simply for the bushing mounts as I wish to keep this dd streetably tame (no harsh heim joints)

I installed the SPL upper front arms on my G, no additional NVH.

You may want to rethink the Z1 arms after you read this.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...mber-arms.html

Stay away from the Kinetic arms. They don't hold the camber adjustment well.

I have the SPL arms, and never had an issue with them.

Thanks for the heads up. It seems z1 may have fixed their issue. They seem very similar to the kinetix accept they have a preset more positive caster.

I don't see how it would be possible for the kinetix to not hold a camber adjustment as it uses a threaded ball joint to adjust camber, the ball joint can't spin 360 degree while attached even if the jam but came loose. Doesn't make sense.

The spl does look like a very good product and for serious track use it would be the way I would go but I am not trying to make a track car and I will want some compliance.

It seems z1 may have worked the issue out, I'll keep an eye on it.

I am not seeing how the kinetix would not hold camber as it is a threaded ball joint with jam nut (same as z1). Even if the jam but broke loose the ball joint can not spin 360 degrees. I'm just not seeing it.

The spl do look very nice and I'm sure they are great for track use but I just don't like the sound of using solid mounted parts for street use dd.

The spc/eibach are the ones I would imagine do not hold adjustment as they just use a slotted ball joint so those I will avoid.