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Originally Posted by Zbrah Nice! Thanks, Zbrah! Hope to post some tomorrow.
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2013
Location: The370Z.com
Posts: 4,956
Drives: 370Z
Rep Power: 5453 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sweet! Can you snap a few shots of your toe bolts and lockouts. I've been looking for installed photos of the lockouts but seem no one has posted any
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Memphis Area
Posts: 3,118
Drives: '09 MB
Rep Power: 124435 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Now I'm looking for wheels. I was going to stick with 18"s, but I think I would like 19"s, just to fill what little gap is left. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with the results. Someone at work noticed there was something different about my car, but they couldn't put their finger on it. To me, that's always a good sign. It means that, while subtle, it looks right!
Sorry for the quality of the photo, but all I have is my old iPhone.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 31,410
Drives: Granma red Z
Rep Power: 2684430 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Very nice. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 220
Drives: 370z pearl white
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
I've dropped my Z on swifts, excellent ride btw! However without a camber kit, the rears wear slightly on the inside on mine, nothing too crazy but still not perfect. The fronts on mine were brought back to factory camber spec however. I would definitely suggest a rear camber kit for peace of mind.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 379
Drives: 15 PW Nismo 6 SPD
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Keep calling shops and they are all about $600 for the install of rear arms and springs and alignment
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MD Art Pipes, MD Shockwave exhaust, AAM Intakes, Stillen Crank Pulley, Z1 25 Row Setrab, Whiteline Diff Bushings, 20mm H&R spacers, BC-BR Coils, GT-R push button, 3M, Tommy Kaira Knob, Takata Drift III, Custom Harness Bar, Zwork Headlights, EVO-R, Uprev |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 365
Drives: 14 touring/sport/6MT
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quote:
total paid $350 including everything, spacers, swifts, alignment, rear camber install.
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2014 White Tour/Sports Package 6MT , RJM Adjustable Clutch Pedal, GT-R Start, Stillen CAI, Z1 25 Row Oil Cooler, Motordyne E370, Swifts, 20mm/25mm, SPL Rear Camber TOTALED 10/24/14 2013 Black Tour/Sports Package
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central CA
Age: 36
Posts: 219
Drives: 2014 370Z PW Manual
Rep Power: 13 ![]() |
Quote:
How much did you end up paying for install? I just got quoted for $810 for installing swift springs, SPL camber arms, spacers, SPL eccentric lockout kit and rear spc camber bolts. Crazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Baltimore
Posts: 379
Drives: 15 PW Nismo 6 SPD
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Quote:
I didnt do arms. I just did springs. Paid $200 for spring install
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MD Art Pipes, MD Shockwave exhaust, AAM Intakes, Stillen Crank Pulley, Z1 25 Row Setrab, Whiteline Diff Bushings, 20mm H&R spacers, BC-BR Coils, GT-R push button, 3M, Tommy Kaira Knob, Takata Drift III, Custom Harness Bar, Zwork Headlights, EVO-R, Uprev |
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2013
Location: The370Z.com
Posts: 4,956
Drives: 370Z
Rep Power: 5453 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yep, I need pics to confirm where the lockouts are being installed. Also, if you don't mind showing the drill bit you used to elongate the camber holes too. I'm not too mechanical so pictures would help a ton here. Thanks!
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Canada's Wet Coast
Posts: 480
Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Quote:
As for the bits i used, I destroyed both of them and discarded what little was left. I used a Dremel Chain saw sharpening bit. There were two in the pack for about $11. The alternative, and the real way to go was an $19 high speed cutter. I bought both packs so I had the cutter if the CSS bits didn't work. When the CSS bits worked I just returned the HSC bit unopened. I would suggest the HSC bit. I'm not sure what the number was. Whatever you get needs to be able to hack steel, so the #115 and #117 bits are NO GO. I destroyed a 115 or 117 (I forget which one) on the first hole, and still didn't get it completed. I'll do a search and see if I can find the HSC and post a link. 104 |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Canada's Wet Coast
Posts: 480
Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
Quote:
Left TN....Toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket where I've put the piece of beige masking tape. Middle TN.... Lockout goes on the inboard end of the camber arm marked by a piece of green masking tape. See blue jam nut midway and adjuster beyond it. Right TN.....entire Camber arm (outboard end closest) Inboard end furthest away with green tape. 104 |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2013
Location: The370Z.com
Posts: 4,956
Drives: 370Z
Rep Power: 5453 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Edit: You only used two lockout bolts? I see the lockout kit usually comes with four bolts/eight square washers, but your pictures only show two bolts installed on the end of each camber arm.
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