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With many thanks to dragonbreath, we (he) installed rear camber arms (SPL), toe bolts, and lock-outs today. We'll finish up the front springs tomorrow morning and I'll get an initial
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Memphis Area
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With many thanks to dragonbreath, we (he) installed rear camber arms (SPL), toe bolts, and lock-outs today. We'll finish up the front springs tomorrow morning and I'll get an initial alignment tomorrow afternoon. I'll post results and plan on getting an alignment a week from now, after the springs settle.
Fingers crossed that the front end is in spec. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Baltimore
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Drives: 15 PW Nismo 6 SPD
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Is the spl wrench needed for spl camber arms? Or is that just an extra tool that makes it easier to adjust but not 100% required
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I think it just makes it easier for the mechanic to perform adjustments for the alignment process, as well as keep them from scratching or rounding off the pieces that turn.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Other than the well known allignment issues, There are a lot of cons for lowering springs. Spring rate, ride height, and damping are all interrelated. To build a proper suspension, you first decide on bump travel. That determines your spring rate, and that determines your damping.
So with lowering springs only you have a dilemma. You can either go for stiffer springs that support the diminished bump travel (and properly stiff springs will have really high spring rates to go from bump travel of like 5 to 3 inches) which will the be woefully underdamped and cause the car to feel like crap. Or you can go the route most aftermarket springs go for and just have similar spring rates, which won't be enough spring for the lowered bump travel. This causes the suspension to constantly bottom out, killing the shocks and doing damage to your frame. In addition, lowering the car changes the suspension geometry and the roll center. It usually puts the roll center underground which is suck. All in all, why do you want to lower your car? Looks? Performance? Lowering for performance isn't straight forward. You want matched damping for your spring rates. There are calculators online to figure out what spring rate you want to run for a given bump travel. Then after that you should probably get roll angle adjusters, and then probably weaker anti roll bars. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Don't bother and save your money. Let the alignment guy deal with it. 104 |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Drives: 15 PW Nismo 6 SPD
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Quote:
Alignment before springs settle? Does it matter if you get it done after install or a week after install
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#8 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Sweet! Can you snap a few shots of your toe bolts and lockouts. I've been looking for installed photos of the lockouts but seem no one has posted any
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
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Quote:
The lock outs go on the inboard end of the camber arms. The toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket....in the same location as the stockers. I'll take pics of mine this weekend of you're determined to see some. I'll be putting my spacers on. 104 |
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Now I'm looking for wheels. I was going to stick with 18"s, but I think I would like 19"s, just to fill what little gap is left. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with the results. Someone at work noticed there was something different about my car, but they couldn't put their finger on it. To me, that's always a good sign. It means that, while subtle, it looks right!
Sorry for the quality of the photo, but all I have is my old iPhone.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Very nice. |
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