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Converter to plug into line that runs to Bose Sub?

This is probably a shot in the dark, but does anyone make a plug that plugs into the end of the line that runs to the sub woofer in the

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Old 02-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Converter to plug into line that runs to Bose Sub?

This is probably a shot in the dark, but does anyone make a plug that plugs into the end of the line that runs to the sub woofer in the truck and gives you RCA outs from it? Or alternatively taps into the lines before they hit the Bose amp in the trunk? Looking at this plug which comes from the HU to the Amp it appears that one could just tap in a line out converter before the signal hits the amp. I could also tap into the On signal from the HU.



Has anyone done this? if so what signal did you use? One of the Fronts I would imagine. I would just place a wire tap on the required wires and run them to a LOC so that I could retain the sound through both front speakers.

Anyone see any issues with this?
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sadly to my knowledge there is not a direct plug in that converts to RCA's.

You can tear your bose sub apart pull the female plug out and modify it for the rca's, and run it to your LOC.

Or you can Tap into the full signal before it hits the amp, and run it to your LOC
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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LOC=line out converter???
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat View Post
Sadly to my knowledge there is not a direct plug in that converts to RCA's.

You can tear your bose sub apart pull the female plug out and modify it for the rca's, and run it to your LOC.

Or you can Tap into the full signal before it hits the amp, and run it to your LOC
So would tapping into that plug I showed you give the desired effects? Its the plug that runs from the HU to the Amp before the signals get all messed up from the BOSE doing its thing? This would allow me to put the LOC in the trunk and keep everything right near the sub.

and yes LOC is a Line out Converter
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So would tapping into that plug I showed you give the desired effects? Its the plug that runs from the HU to the Amp before the signals get all messed up from the BOSE doing its thing? This would allow me to put the LOC in the trunk and keep everything right near the sub.

and yes LOC is a Line out Converter
Yes you can use the full range low level signal coming out of the head unit and get a full range signal.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes you can use the full range low level signal coming out of the head unit and get a full range signal.
Perfect thanks! I just wanted to confirm.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mitco39 View Post
Looking at this plug which comes from the HU to the Amp it appears that one could just tap in a line out converter before the signal hits the amp. I could also tap into the On signal from the HU.

Actually, that plug looks like it's the "output" from the Bose amp. NOT the plug from the HU to the amp. You want to use the input wires on the other plug on the amp (should be connector M84 according the FSM for mine which is an '09).

I'm about to replace my fronts with Polk components (wanted cleaner highs) and will be using the low level Front + & - before the amp. Also, I won't be tapping the wires, rather cut them and solder/heat shrink the connections. I'm hoping that works as right now I have my sub/amp connected to the sub output wires going to the LOC and will need a full signal for the entire system.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I used the wires directly BEFORE where the wire connectore plugs into the sub. I have running in this way for 2 years now. No problems.

Is this where you were talking about pfdaxe?
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I used the wires directly BEFORE where the wire connectore plugs into the sub. I have running in this way for 2 years now. No problems.

Is this where you were talking about pfdaxe?
For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

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Old 02-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

**Matt will correct me if I'm wrong....lol
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pfdaxe View Post
Actually, that plug looks like it's the "output" from the Bose amp. NOT the plug from the HU to the amp. You want to use the input wires on the other plug on the amp (should be connector M84 according the FSM for mine which is an '09).

I'm about to replace my fronts with Polk components (wanted cleaner highs) and will be using the low level Front + & - before the amp. Also, I won't be tapping the wires, rather cut them and solder/heat shrink the connections. I'm hoping that works as right now I have my sub/amp connected to the sub output wires going to the LOC and will need a full signal for the entire system.
.
.
B41 is the connector from the HU to the Amp
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Last edited by Mitco39; 02-08-2013 at 09:23 AM. Reason: Was wrong.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pfdaxe View Post
For running just a sub amp? Yes, use the signal wires from the Bose amp to the Bose sub like you described (and what I use for my current set-up). For adding another amp for front speakers and running an entire system, sub and mids/highs, use the wires on the connector before the amp and connect to the LOC and disconnect the wires being used for the sub amp (since you can't use both). This should give you a full range signal. I will be trying that in the next few days.

**Matt will correct me if I'm wrong....lol
.
.
So I can plug an amp into the leads going straight to the subwoofer and use those? Even though they are already amplified? One would think you would get a bunch of distortion doing it this way no?

Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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So I can plug an amp into the leads going straight to the subwoofer and use those? Even though they are already amplified? One would think you would get a bunch of distortion doing it this way no?

Thanks
You can use those wires (ONLY if you're just adding a sub and sub amp). But you have to disconnect/cut them (so they aren't connected to the Bose sub anymore) and connect them into an LOC before they go into an amp. This will give you a clean/flat signal so you can adjust it at the new amp.

Last edited by pfdaxe; 02-08-2013 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Ah you are right, its B42 that I wanted.
I figured '10 would be a bit different (connector number)
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
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You can use those wires (ONLY if you're just adding a sub and sub amp). But you have to disconnect/cut them (so they aren't connected to the Bose sub anymore) and connect them into an LOC before they go into an amp. This will give you a clean/flat signal so you can adjust it at the new amp.

Ah yes I misunderstood your last post, this is what I was asking at the start minus taking it from the woofer signal. Take the Sub Woofer signal + and - between the HU and the Amp and run those to the LOC and then just use one channel to a monoblock amp to fire the aftermarket woofer.
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