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Installing Amp to stock radio using Fierce Audio line converter

Usually when installing an amp you have an aftermarket radio with RCA outputs you can plug into that make it easy. However if you want to keep the factory radio,

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Old 03-14-2012, 05:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Installing Amp to stock radio using Fierce Audio line converter

Usually when installing an amp you have an aftermarket radio with RCA outputs you can plug into that make it easy. However if you want to keep the factory radio, you will need an RCA line converter.

TOOLS NEEDED
Socket Wrench
10mm Socket
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
pliers
Knife
Crimping tool*
drill*

*not needed but it will help

PARTS NEEDED
RCA Line Converter
Fierce Audio - $15 at Best Buy.


You will also need an amp installation kit (rca cable, blue turn on wire, ground wire and battery cable) an amp and a sub (which in my case is built together in a Bazooka Tube). Decide which size gauge you need to run to your amp. The bazooka was only 100w so an 8 gauge was plenty.


Also these little red quick connects by 3m (22~16AWG) come in handy for making easy connections and can be bought at your local auto parts store or even walmart for a couple bucks for a small pack. You will need 5.


LETS BEGIN
Start by disconnecting your battery and then following all the instructions for removing the center console shown here.

Once you are looking at the back of the radio, use this wiring diagram to connect the Fierce Audio converter by first placing the radio wire through the quick connect and then inserting the correct Fierce Audio wire into the extra hole. Then use pliers to clamp and then close.


LEFT SPEAKER
POSITIVE: FIERCE white wire to #2 (blue)
NEGATIVE: FIERCE white/black wire to #3 (purple)

RIGHT SPEAKER
POSITIVE: FIERCE grey wire to #11 (purple)
NEGATIVE: FIERCE grey/black to #12 (green).

Blue Turn-On
Connect the separate wire that came with your amp installation kit to #7 (blue). This will run alongside your RCA cables and connect to your amp.

Should look like this when you are done.


RCA
Now connect the RCA cables and run them out the back of the RCA converter to the passenger side floor.

FIERCE AUDIO GROUND
Before you put everything back you will notice there are two red wires hanging off of the RCA converter. Those can be connected to a ground. I simply combined them to a connector and ran them to the nearest screw. NOTE: I did have to make the hole bigger using a drill or knife in order to fit the fat screw.


I have the tube in the trunk so that's where I have to run the wires. If you want to do a full clean installation cause you are a perfectionist, you can remove all the center pieces even behind the seats but its not necessary. I just tucked the RCA and Blue turn-on wires down the center all the way behind the passenger seat then to the door.


Power Cable
This gets a little more labor intense because you have to remove lots of panels to run the power cable.

First start with under the hood. Remove battery cover.


Then remove plastic piece that holds the cover by simply popping out the inside of plastic rivets with your flat head screwdriver and pulling it out with your fingers.


Then remove the top lining by popping out a couple more rivets and gently pulling it from under the center piece and folding it to the side to access the main wiring harness. Here you can see how I ran the wire from the battery positive, to a hole I cut at the top of the harness cover. I aslo wrapped the battery wire with a plastic wire cover to make it look more professional


This is how its connected to the terminal, dont forget your fuse!


Lets go back inside the car. Remove the kick panel trim by simply popping it up.

Note: Pictures were taken after so you will see the wire already installed.

Next remove the panel under the dash by popping it out to the left.


This is where the battery wire comes down from, just pull it all the way down until there is no more slack.


Run the wire through the plastic clips.


Now to run the wire to the trunk, yes more panels need to be removed. First remove the trunk bed carpet and cover. Then start by popping out the rear panel by the back of the car. This is tricky and hard so becareful. I made a small crack at the top trying to figure out how to take this off. Pull up.


There are 3 main clips that need to be popped in order to remove it. Once you have done this, take out the trunk light and place the panel aside.


Now you can remove the cargo net buckle using your flat head screwdriver to pop out the inside then pulling out. Pull the panel out towards the inside of the car.


Remove the foam thingy. Carefull, there is a bolt that gets in the way of pulling it out.


Grab your socket wrench and remove the bolt inside of this panel. I believe its a 10mm.


Then pop out towards the inside of the car from the passenger seat.


Now you can feed all three wires through the side and either figure out how to connect them to your amp or if you are running a bazooka tube like I did, connect them to the bazooka harness.


The red bazooka cable goes with the power cable and the RCA's go into the RCA input obviously.


The Blue turn on wire goes to the orange bazooka wire (not so obvious). Then you can connect the ground to a screw located in the trunk.


Thats it! Now put all the panels back in reverse order and when you get back to the trunk carpet you can stick the harness through the child anchor since Im sure none of you are ever going to use this.


Tie down your bazooka straps, I angled mine towards the passenger taillight corner for the best sound.


Plug in and strap down...TADA!!
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd like to point a few things out that could potentially cause problems...

1st off, what is going on here with the tape? It looks like you just used electrical tape to connect the wires. Big major no-no. Also, ANY time you step down in wire size (especially from 8 AWG to what looks like 12 or 14 AWG), you MUST use a fuse. Car fires are not fun. Ask me how I know.





Next, your grounds need some help. In the 1st photo below, it looks like you didn't remove any paint or body coating material. I'm really anal about grounds, so I like to use "star" lock washers in addition to grinding the paint away. On the 2nd photo, what you've basically done is grounded the Line-Out to the radio chassis, which then grounds via the ground wire through the radio harness. I'd suggest just tying directly into the ground on the harness to avoid any potential ground loops.






I like the way you ran the wires to the anchor point, by the way. Really helps keep things clean in the hatch.
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vividracing View Post
I'd like to point a few things out that could potentially cause problems...

1st off, what is going on here with the tape? It looks like you just used electrical tape to connect the wires. Big major no-no. Also, ANY time you step down in wire size (especially from 8 AWG to what looks like 12 or 14 AWG), you MUST use a fuse. Car fires are not fun. Ask me how I know.
You're right, I usually solder and heat shrink but wifey was rushing to come back in the house and help with the baby so this is me being rushed. And I didnt know about the downsize, thanks for the input! When I first bought this bazooka for my pathfinder, the guy at circuit city installed it like that so I thought it was fine. Scared to ask how you know?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vividracing View Post
Next, your grounds need some help. In the 1st photo below, it looks like you didn't remove any paint or body coating material. I'm really anal about grounds, so I like to use "star" lock washers in addition to grinding the paint away. On the 2nd photo, what you've basically done is grounded the Line-Out to the radio chassis, which then grounds via the ground wire through the radio harness. I'd suggest just tying directly into the ground on the harness to avoid any potential ground loops.

I like the way you ran the wires to the anchor point, by the way. Really helps keep things clean in the hatch.
Yup, forgot to do that. I just sold this which is why I did the write up so he could install it. Im going to install some bigger amps in mine so I will keep the ground tips in mind, thanks again!
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Old 03-16-2012, 11:15 AM   #4 (permalink)
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No problem! I like regular butt connectors just as much as solder (both have their appropriate places/uses), but just taping things up is too iffy for me. As for the fire situation... When I was younger, a friend and I were cruising in his sweet Blazer and a pinched 4 gauge wire caused a gnarly fire. I've never had any fires/shorts on my installs; I learned from other peoples mistakes haha.

I like seeing people work on their own cars, but just wanted to post up when I saw those issues because I'd hate for an inexperienced person to see your write up and replicate it. Thanks for contributing to the community!
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes butt connectors would have been a better quicker option. I used this little trick to make a secure connection, works like a charm

Split the wires in half on both.


Then twist each pair together.


Then twist it all together, makes for a pretty tight connection.


Should probably only be used for speaker wire though.

Last edited by VDC_OFF; 03-16-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 07-20-2016, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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sorry to bump this up again
I wanted to the same approach by adding a converter.

does anyone has a copy of this thread?
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