door speakers

Pat C. · 03-10-2012, 01:53 PM

Bigaudiofanat,
Non Bose system. Don't want to turn this into a long dialogue, but does the factory have a hidden crossover between the stock door and upper tweeter sections? Have bypassed all of these due to new wiring, but if you were just splicing into the stock wiring, couldn't this create a nightmare?
Just received my JL audio amp and my new CD receiver is supposed to be here this coming Tues. Hope to have he entire system up and running by Thurs.
Appreciate the comments and suggestions you always offer...
Pat

bigaudiofanat · 03-10-2012, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat C.

Bigaudiofanat,
Non Bose system. Don't want to turn this into a long dialogue, but does the factory have a hidden crossover between the stock door and upper tweeter sections? Have bypassed all of these due to new wiring, but if you were just splicing into the stock wiring, couldn't this create a nightmare?
Just received my JL audio amp and my new CD receiver is supposed to be here this coming Tues. Hope to have he entire system up and running by Thurs.
Appreciate the comments and suggestions you always offer...
Pat

I have not confirmed that there is HOWEVER it is never a bad thing to run new wires especially sense the tweeter wire and the door wire are connected to the same wire comping from the head unit.

sonic370 · 03-10-2012, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Could be that they go to a factory crossover to balance out the load for the factory head unit. Unless your talking about bose which I do not want to go there

not to hijack thread big. but when i had my components installed they put the
crossovers inside the doors. what do they set them to. or is there a setting?

BlkNismo · 03-12-2012, 08:00 PM

Update: Installed the polk momo 5.25in door speakers today and was not satisfied at all.

I will be changing to 6.5in component set in the near future. I will also dynomat the doors at the same time. Maybe the trunk as well to reduce road noise.

There was not much of a difference from stock which I found to be suprising.

Any recommendations?

Remember the speakers are getting juice from Pioneer Avic 930 headunit.
Is an external amp going to make a difference for the component speakers or is my head unit supplying sufficient power.

BlkNismo · 03-12-2012, 08:14 PM

Maybe another option..is it possible to put 6.5 in subwooders in the door? enough mounting depth?

bigaudiofanat · 03-12-2012, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo

Update: Installed the polk momo 5.25in door speakers today and was not satisfied at all.

I will be changing to 6.5in component set in the near future. I will also dynomat the doors at the same time. Maybe the trunk as well to reduce road noise.

There was not much of a difference from stock which I found to be suprising.

Any recommendations?

Remember the speakers are getting juice from Pioneer Avic 930 headunit.
Is an external amp going to make a difference for the component speakers or is my head unit supplying sufficient power.

Sorry to tell you but the difference between components and coaxial speakers is night and day. Make sure to run new speaker wires!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo

Maybe another option..is it possible to put 6.5 in subwooders in the door? enough mounting depth?

Subs in the doors is a LOT of work, however if you are looking for more bass you need to do 3 things.

!. Sound deadening this will help keep vibration down.

2. Look at bigger and better 6.5 component sets. Going with something like focal polyglass or image dynamics or even JL will give you a lot more mid bass.

3. Time to AMP!!!! The head units only produce around 22 watts RMS of power, if your wanting more bass from any speaker look into an external amp.

Trust my advice

as you see from my recommendation with the skiping the coaxials and going component set.

BlkNismo · 03-12-2012, 08:44 PM

Thanks and I never doubted your input, however I already had the compnent set laying around and it took less then an hour to safisfy my curiosity.

I am considering these: Focal Polyglass 165 V30 6.5" 2-Way Component Speaker System.

Any amp reccomendation for these?

bigaudiofanat · 03-12-2012, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlkNismo

Thanks and I never doubted your input, however I already had the coaxial set laying around and it took less then an hour to safisfy my curiosity.

I am considering these: Focal Polyglass 165 V30 6.5" 2-Way Component Speaker System.

Any amp reccomendation for these?

Good choice! Something with at least 100 watts of power to give them, as they love power. Alpine, audison, and focal come to mind for amps.

I have not yet ran the focal amps personally however I have heard them powering a set of focals KRX2's and there pretty smooth.

370ZilverZ · 04-13-2012, 03:46 PM

I bought 36 sq ft and after I completed the hatch, I have 3 pieces left to do my doors. Did you take any pics of the dynamat in your doors and speaker install?

BlkNismo · 04-13-2012, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370ZilverZ

I bought 36 sq ft and after I completed the hatch, I have 3 pieces left to do my doors. Did you take any pics of the dynamat in your doors and speaker install?

No I didnt think to take any pictures. I did the install this morning. Took about 4 hours.
Just wish I had more dynamat right now so I could have finished everything up in one day.

370ZilverZ · 04-13-2012, 05:24 PM

It will take some time to do the hatch right. But worth the efforts IMO

DCNISMO · 04-13-2012, 08:16 PM

I think the bulk kit and two more sheets. I bought the trunk kit plus one sheet and I need one more sheet to finish off the trunk and wheel arches and I'm guessing I'll have a bit left over for the tranny hump. Thsts also bare metal under the shifter and console. I'm going to finish mine off tomorrow. Good thing is I can have the trunk all ripped out in 10 minutes now. It's quite easy to take apart. Plus take the side panels off to get to front of wheel arches. That takes a bit more time though, still easy though.

n1cd · 04-13-2012, 09:01 PM

Been gone for a year. So what have you all found out for best cross over area to hide them at. I dont think the doors are good as these cross overs are on the big size. I have Alpine SPX 17 Pros 6 1/2 for the door area.

BlkNismo · 06-13-2012, 04:00 PM

Update.

As last update stated, I still need to dynamat the trunk/hatch area to complete my project. I have 3 sheets of dynamat extreme left from the bulk pack after doing the doors.

Rather then ordering more dynamat, I decided to go ahead and use what I had for the time being. This morning I tore down the trunk interior and installed my last 3 bulk dynamat peices. I was able to cover the floor board, wheel archers as best as I could and a bit on the tail light side. Took 2 hours.

For anyone looking to cover the entire hatch space, you would probably require 5-6 bulk peices.

After driving around town and interstate I can notice a further improvement of noise reduction from just dynamat on doors only. You can hear more engine noise(which I like) now as most of the hatch noise is gone. Tire noise was cut down significantly.

In total I have used an entire bulk pack, 3 pieces for each door and 3 pieces in the hatch area.

Perhaps full coverage would yield better sound reduction, however I feel I have got to a level that is comfortable and I am happy with the end result.

1 bulk pack is aprox. 20lbs added weight and very much worth it for the noise reduction it offers.

04-13-2012, 03:46 PM	#9 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 68 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 19	I bought 36 sq ft and after I completed the hatch, I have 3 pieces left to do my doors. Did you take any pics of the dynamat in your doors and speaker install? __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4

04-13-2012, 05:24 PM	#11 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 68 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 19	It will take some time to do the hatch right. But worth the efforts IMO __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4

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03-10-2012, 01:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
Pat C. Base Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Eagle River, Alaska Posts: 70 Drives: 10' 370Z coupe M6 Rep Power: 15	Bigaudiofanat, Non Bose system. Don't want to turn this into a long dialogue, but does the factory have a hidden crossover between the stock door and upper tweeter sections? Have bypassed all of these due to new wiring, but if you were just splicing into the stock wiring, couldn't this create a nightmare? Just received my JL audio amp and my new CD receiver is supposed to be here this coming Tues. Hope to have he entire system up and running by Thurs. Appreciate the comments and suggestions you always offer... Pat

03-12-2012, 08:00 PM	#4 (permalink)
BlkNismo Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 614 Drives: Nismo Rep Power: 15	Update: Installed the polk momo 5.25in door speakers today and was not satisfied at all. I will be changing to 6.5in component set in the near future. I will also dynomat the doors at the same time. Maybe the trunk as well to reduce road noise. There was not much of a difference from stock which I found to be suprising. Any recommendations? Remember the speakers are getting juice from Pioneer Avic 930 headunit. Is an external amp going to make a difference for the component speakers or is my head unit supplying sufficient power.

03-12-2012, 08:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
BlkNismo Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 614 Drives: Nismo Rep Power: 15	Maybe another option..is it possible to put 6.5 in subwooders in the door? enough mounting depth?

03-12-2012, 08:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
BlkNismo Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 614 Drives: Nismo Rep Power: 15	Thanks and I never doubted your input, however I already had the compnent set laying around and it took less then an hour to safisfy my curiosity. I am considering these: Focal Polyglass 165 V30 6.5" 2-Way Component Speaker System. Any amp reccomendation for these?

04-13-2012, 08:16 PM	#12 (permalink)
DCNISMO Track Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: washington dc Posts: 995 Drives: Nismo Z Rep Power: 179	I think the bulk kit and two more sheets. I bought the trunk kit plus one sheet and I need one more sheet to finish off the trunk and wheel arches and I'm guessing I'll have a bit left over for the tranny hump. Thsts also bare metal under the shifter and console. I'm going to finish mine off tomorrow. Good thing is I can have the trunk all ripped out in 10 minutes now. It's quite easy to take apart. Plus take the side panels off to get to front of wheel arches. That takes a bit more time though, still easy though.

04-13-2012, 09:01 PM	#13 (permalink)
n1cd Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Melbourne FL Posts: 72 Drives: 370Z Nismo Black 336 Rep Power: 16	Been gone for a year. So what have you all found out for best cross over area to hide them at. I dont think the doors are good as these cross overs are on the big size. I have Alpine SPX 17 Pros 6 1/2 for the door area.

06-13-2012, 04:00 PM	#14 (permalink)
BlkNismo Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 614 Drives: Nismo Rep Power: 15	Update. As last update stated, I still need to dynamat the trunk/hatch area to complete my project. I have 3 sheets of dynamat extreme left from the bulk pack after doing the doors. Rather then ordering more dynamat, I decided to go ahead and use what I had for the time being. This morning I tore down the trunk interior and installed my last 3 bulk dynamat peices. I was able to cover the floor board, wheel archers as best as I could and a bit on the tail light side. Took 2 hours. For anyone looking to cover the entire hatch space, you would probably require 5-6 bulk peices. After driving around town and interstate I can notice a further improvement of noise reduction from just dynamat on doors only. You can hear more engine noise(which I like) now as most of the hatch noise is gone. Tire noise was cut down significantly. In total I have used an entire bulk pack, 3 pieces for each door and 3 pieces in the hatch area. Perhaps full coverage would yield better sound reduction, however I feel I have got to a level that is comfortable and I am happy with the end result. 1 bulk pack is aprox. 20lbs added weight and very much worth it for the noise reduction it offers.