Plug and Play Bypass Kit (DVD, NAV and backup Camera) Discussion

wheee!

The two harnesses plug into different components so they are independent of each other. There is a lot of room behind the nav head so it shouldn't be an issue....

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tsolin01

$150 does seem a bit steep for me... would a DIY kit be possible where basically we'd be putting the harness together ourselves? and I think I'd probably just get the harness by itself without a switch/remote and figure that out on my own.

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bdl99

I could definitely provide the harness without a switch but you would probably be looking at $100 for that for reasons I will explain below.

Putting together the harness is the time consuming part, it involves crimping and soldering lots of tiny pins that are then inserted in to the housings. In theory I could provide a bag of bits, but I don't think many would want that because unless you have had a lot of practice you are likely to make mistakes (I know I did and I play with this stuff all the time). You would also need the correct tools that you would likely have to purchase. I think anyone inclined enough to do that would probably have gone the complete DIY route.

wheee!

LOL! I love this.

I will meter out my switch again today if I get the chance. I had to buy a new meter last night as the old one crapped the bed.

The reality is, we need the switch to act the way we want it too REGARDLESS of the way it behaves in the stock harness. As long as we can determine the reactions of the pins in either direction of the rocker, then all that is left to do is sort out the illumination.

I am going to go for the effect of illuminating the HI and LO lights for the vss disable and camera enable, but I am going to disable the centre illumination for the heated seat emblem. Probably paint over it or cover it whatever....

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wheee!

Lets do this the proper way.... the manual!!

Passenger side switch pins:



Driver side pins:



and FINALLY! The schematic for the wiring including the position of the diodes...



All of these images were pulled from the 2010 manual

I should have gone there first...

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wheee!

New layout of pins as follows:

4 5
2
1
3 6

So I think that this is what the schematic is saying...

Pin 4 is Gnd
Pin 1 is 12V
Pin 1 & 3 are short for the High seat temp setting (Pin 3 Hi output)
Pin 1 & 2 are short for the Lo seat temp setting (Pin 2 Hi Output)


Pin 5 is measured at 12V (constant supply)
Pin 6 is measured at 8 V (comes on with interior lights to illuminate the seat icon)
These are for the illumination circuit

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ProfessorDave

Awesome, thanks!

This stuff makes my head hurt. My brain doesn't work this way. I can wire up a 3-way switch in my house, but I get into the car and

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Rain, snow, sleet, hail: 2009 Mazda 3 sGT HB
Everything else: 2009 370z, PW Touring 6MT

bdl99

I think you will find that is exactly what I posted
The only difference is the diagram is from the harness perspective and mine was from the switch

1 2
3
4
5 6
Mine looking at switch

4 5
2
1
3 6
Diagram from manual looking at harness

1 (3) 2 (6)
3 (1)
4 (2)
5 (4) 6 (5)
Showing both (harness in brackets)

The reason for the metering voltages between (5) and (6) is due to metering before and after the bulb.

wheee!

Actually I think you have it reversed Brian...

Pin 4 is top left on the switch, top right on the harness. It is a black wire (indicating ground I assume) and next to it is pin 5 (red wire) which is 12v constant.

As for 5 & 6, are you saying that that is strictly for the centre "seat" icon to light up? That would make sense too if the LED's for the heat indicators are pulling their voltage from pin 1 (12v)

Sorry if this is becoming semantic at all, just trying to be as clear as possible!

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bdl99

Trust me its right, remember there is also harness side vs terminal side (HS vs TS) in the manual.

Correct the LEDs for switch position are getting there +12V from Pin 1 (pin 3 in my original diagram). The illumination for the center icon is separate.

No problem, for those buying a kit it wont matter for anyone taking the complete DIY approach it will probably need a photo or two

wheee!

This is actually awesome news as now we can wire the hi output (HI setting) from pin 3 to the relay to release the vss signal, and when we switch to the LO setting it will send a 12v signal from pin 2 directly to the reverse signal on pin 81 at the back of the av head. No extra diodes should be required.
What say you Brian?

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bdl99

Yes with a small micro relay we can use this switch.

Regarding the diodes you still want at least one diode so that the 12V doesn't back feed the car when the switch is engaged (remember we are tapping in to the existing wire not cutting it).

Given that the diodes cost cents I would probably also include the second so that when you put the car in reverse it didn't illuminate the button. I would need to double check the rest of the circuit diagram to see if that would actually happen but a diode would solve the problem either way.

wheee!

Actually I agree with you on the diodes. Looking at the schematic it would still need protection from turning the switch lights on when you went into reverse etc. Good call!

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wheee!

I will never doubt you again.. I have been

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Jeffblue