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What amp will have good fitment?

IMG_1018 by Kasey Meadows , on Flickr IMG_1025 by Kasey Meadows , on Flickr should give you a little bit of an idea, and the looks of things with an

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Old 07-15-2017, 02:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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IMG_1018 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr

IMG_1025 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr

should give you a little bit of an idea, and the looks of things with an amp tucked in there.
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:13 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by McLovin2010 View Post
IMG_1018 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr

IMG_1025 by Kasey Meadows, on Flickr

should give you a little bit of an idea, and the looks of things with an amp tucked in there.
That looks very clean and organized great job. My audio road shop ordered a Zenclosure subwoofer box so, as far as I know the Zenclosure subwoofer box would be mounted right on top of where your amp is located. I am looking for ideas to where to mount the amps and crossovers because I still would like to have a space wheel/tire in the back. I am looking to hide the amps and crossovers. In the back of the seat or on the subwoofer box? Where did you guys mount your amps and crossovers? Pics are greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:13 AM   #18 (permalink)
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That looks very clean and organized great job. My audio road shop ordered a Zenclosure subwoofer box so, as far as I know the Zenclosure subwoofer box would be mounted right on top of where your amp is located. I am looking for ideas to where to mount the amps and crossovers because I still would like to have a space wheel/tire in the back. I am looking to hide the amps and crossovers. In the back of the seat or on the subwoofer box? Where did you guys mount your amps and crossovers? Pics are greatly appreciated.
with the setup i did that will give you the best of both worlds, it's hidden like you said once the carpet is laid over and the box on top you will never see it. and keep all that valuable trunk space. Glad you like it
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:16 AM   #19 (permalink)
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If you want to keep the amps hidden, your best bet is behind the rear strut like McLovin has it.

You can take a look at this thread to get a better idea of the dimensions:
Dimensions for space under floor behind strut bar?

If you need more space, and have a headunit with bluetooth capabilities, you can take out the bluetooth module (the box sitting on the passenger side).

To potentially give you other ideas:

imagejpeg_0_2.jpg
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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If you want to keep the amps hidden, your best bet is behind the rear strut like McLovin has it.



You can take a look at this thread to get a better idea of the dimensions:

Dimensions for space under floor behind strut bar?



If you need more space, and have a headunit with bluetooth capabilities, you can take out the bluetooth module (the box sitting on the passenger side).



To potentially give you other ideas:



Attachment 123070


Want to make one note on top of your Bluetooth unit removal, it's also in charge of steering wheel button controls I found that out after I removed the silver box in the strut area, i thoroughly enjoy my controls so I had to wiggle it back in there as you can see.


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Old 08-11-2017, 04:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I've been out of the car audio game for a very long time, will this not work?

https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_113XR...R600-6DSP.html
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I've been out of the car audio game for a very long time, will this not work?

https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_113XR...R600-6DSP.html
It looks a little on the wider side, do you need a 6 channel specifically? if not and for like 30 bucks more you can get a better brand amp with a little more umph XD1000/5v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio
this is the exact amp i'm running it's a 1000watt same 75watt channels you have on the one you posted but it has 500watts for the sub and it's 829 so not much more than what you were already looking at price wise but i really like JL quality, not saying kenwood is bad i've owned one before but this JL is just built really solid and is a really reputable brand.
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have a 3 channel amp FS (check my sig) that I know fits behind the stut and under the foam, as I had it installed that way in my 2011.
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Old 08-15-2017, 03:01 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLovin2010 View Post
It looks a little on the wider side, do you need a 6 channel specifically? if not and for like 30 bucks more you can get a better brand amp with a little more umph XD1000/5v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio
this is the exact amp i'm running it's a 1000watt same 75watt channels you have on the one you posted but it has 500watts for the sub and it's 829 so not much more than what you were already looking at price wise but i really like JL quality, not saying kenwood is bad i've owned one before but this JL is just built really solid and is a really reputable brand.
Wows:

Main Channels @ 4 Ω 75 W RMS x 4
Main Channels @ 2 Ω 100 W RMS x 4
Main Channels - Bridged @ 4Ω 200 W RMS x 2
Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 400 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 500 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 600 W RMS x 1
Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω N/A
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Old 08-18-2017, 11:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I agree with others here. I wouldn't buy anything "Kicker". They're not all that great, and definitely not what I think of when speaking about SQ. I also agree about NOT running rear fill speakers. Not because they'll drown out the front speakers (that's what faders and level adjustments are for), but because the rear fill with ultimately screw up and collapse the front stage. Then again, it doesn't seem to me that front stage is all that important to you either.

Being that you are concerned about space and where to mount amps and such, it would be a smart move to look at only multi-channel amps. That way you can power the entire system with only one amp.

I just purchased an Arc Audio XDi 1200.6. It's a 6 channel amp, full Class D (digital), and runs at 150w watts x 4 @ 4 or 2 ohms OR 300w bridged into 2 ch stereo @ 4 ohms, and 150w x 2 @ 4 ohms, 300w x 2 @ 2 ohms, or 600 bridged mono @ 4 ohms. The best part is, it's SMALL! (13"W x 6.2"L x 2.1"H) And it has plenty of power for the entire system.

Lastly, the discussion about metal dome vs soft dome tweeters... I have heard and owned plenty of both over the years, both for car audio and home audio. Once you reach a certain price point, it really doesn't matter. In fact, some of the absolute best tweeters in the world are metal dome. It's all a matter of the technology involved that makes a tweeter.

Then again, you could go one step further and use no tweeter at all and end up with exquisite results, such as my Martin Logan electrostatic speakers that I use in my home system, that I recently modded by removing the passive crossover networks and now run a DSP and vertically bi-amped with two modded Carver M-500t MkII amps, producing 420 watts per channel into 4 ohms. And all of that power is not for loudness, it's for dynamic headroom.

Anyway, I'm rambling now.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Here's another amp to consider:

T1000X5ad - Power 1,000 Watt Class AD 5-Channel Amplifier | Rockford Fosgate®

I like that it has speaker level inputs built in, and that remote punch level gain deal.

The size though: 1.6 x 4.3 x 12 (in.) Crazy!

So many options now!!! I've not bought an amp in nearly 10 years....
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:29 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopsZ View Post
I agree with others here. I wouldn't buy anything "Kicker". They're not all that great, and definitely not what I think of when speaking about SQ. I also agree about NOT running rear fill speakers. Not because they'll drown out the front speakers (that's what faders and level adjustments are for), but because the rear fill with ultimately screw up and collapse the front stage. Then again, it doesn't seem to me that front stage is all that important to you either.

Being that you are concerned about space and where to mount amps and such, it would be a smart move to look at only multi-channel amps. That way you can power the entire system with only one amp.

I just purchased an Arc Audio XDi 1200.6. It's a 6 channel amp, full Class D (digital), and runs at 150w watts x 4 @ 4 or 2 ohms OR 300w bridged into 2 ch stereo @ 4 ohms, and 150w x 2 @ 4 ohms, 300w x 2 @ 2 ohms, or 600 bridged mono @ 4 ohms. The best part is, it's SMALL! (13"W x 6.2"L x 2.1"H) And it has plenty of power for the entire system.

Lastly, the discussion about metal dome vs soft dome tweeters... I have heard and owned plenty of both over the years, both for car audio and home audio. Once you reach a certain price point, it really doesn't matter. In fact, some of the absolute best tweeters in the world are metal dome. It's all a matter of the technology involved that makes a tweeter.

Then again, you could go one step further and use no tweeter at all and end up with exquisite results, such as my Martin Logan electrostatic speakers that I use in my home system, that I recently modded by removing the passive crossover networks and now run a DSP and vertically bi-amped with two modded Carver M-500t MkII amps, producing 420 watts per channel into 4 ohms. And all of that power is not for loudness, it's for dynamic headroom.

Anyway, I'm rambling now.
Those electrostatics just are amazing on axis! Emotiva has some more affordable studio speakers with them now, but I'm pretty good with my budget M-Audio M3-6's for now.

I did hear those ML floorstanding versions about 20 years ago, was about as close as to feeling like you're at a live concert especially with rock/percussion.
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Those electrostatics just are amazing on axis!

I did hear those ML floorstanding versions about 20 years ago, was about as close as to feeling like you're at a live concert especially with rock/percussion.
With the dbx Driverack Venu360 DSP taking care of crossover duty, time alignment and room correction, even off-axis is great. I even have the JL Audio sub being controlled through the dbx, also bypassing the internal crossover, time aligned and room correction. It all locks in seamlessly. Time aligning the sub with the mains made a HUGE improvement.



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