Suspension and Tire help needed

synolimit

You can't adjust caster. You mean camber? Cause you can't adjust that either on the front.


What machine? Positive on a hunter is toe-in.

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13 370z-

NORAIN

Pretty sure you're toed out front and back. They should be able to get your numbers the same side to side too. Most racks read positive numbers as toe out. Toe out in the back had my car all over the place. The rear end would kinda snap out when cornering if I hit any change in road surface. Don't let the alignment guy use OEM specs to go by. They tend to center you up in the middle of spec numbers. Which puts you with way too much toe out. I went through this several times before I figured out what was happening. I was going to a regular auto service place for alignment, they don't get it. Find a race shop or someone that can think outside the box...
I'm running .0 toe in front and a touch toe in, in the back, -1/32 ea side. If you do some reading here you'll see most lowered cars run similar toe numbers.
Good luck

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bacalhau16

Sorry, you are correct. I was getting ahead of myself. Toe in the front was adjusted but camber and caster remained the same.

Not sure what type of machine was used. They threw it on a lift, put some reflectors on my rims and numbers popped up. Lol

synolimit

So those are the correct numbers then? Both are positives? Is that in degrees?

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13 370z-

bacalhau16

Front toe is positive.
it says my steer ahead is -.01. Not familiar with that

rear toe is also positive. .12 and .16
total toe .27
says my thrust angle is -.02. Also not familiar with that

synolimit

That might handle funny depending what that machine calls +/-.

I like slight toe-out in front and slight toe-in in the rear. If both yours are + then I hope you have toe-in. Toe-out in the rear isn't great.

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13 370z-

NORAIN

Yup... A touch toe out in the front turns in a little better. I was finding I got more tramming with the toe out up front. It's pretty crucial to have a touch toe in out back though. I'd almost be willing to bet, he's toed out on both. I went through this trying to get aligned at sears. They were the go to place for lowered cars in town because of the low rack they have. They kept setting me in the middle of the OEM spec numbers. Which ends up being toed out (the OEM specs are toed out to start with). The machines can be used 2 ways. With the OEM specs as the range on the monitor screen or from a true zero as the range... You want them to use true zero. The camber numbers pretty much read the same no matter how the machine is set. As I said before, the regular auto service places don't seem to get it. They are used to aligning SUV's mini vans, and pick ups. LOL.

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Swift Springs|265-305 RE-11|Forgestar F14|F.I. TDX S.S. 12" Res."Milled Out"|K&N|SPL|Z1(34 row)oil cooler|Z1 brake upgrade|Hotchkis Zspeed|Team Voodoo|HPDEjunkie.com

bacalhau16

The car seems to feel a little better after a few days, but def still not what I want. I do plan on replacing the front tires in the next few weeks. When I do that, I will install my rear camber arms and perhaps front camber arms as well. Then probably head to jacksonville to get it aligned at a pro shop

NORAIN

^^^There you go... Go ahead and put the front a arms on too. Unless you want to drive to J'ville again and pay for another alignment. The front's not very hard... It doesn't get outta whack as much either. The rear end gets weird easier when switching the camber arms. Did you get lock out bolts for where the camber arms connect to the chassis? You want to eliminate the eccentric bolt that's there now. it becomes redundant with an adjustable arm and can slip. It will be fine after a proper alignment. I was so frustrated when I was trying to get mine to drive right again. I was considering getting something else... She's good now.

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aszyd

Tire Rack says 500 miles. I'll go with that, even if it is an overestimation.

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kenchan

yah, some tires last 40k miles.... lol for those rock tires, it might really take 500miles to break in properly with grandma driving.

synolimit

Manufactures also say don't go over 4k rpm on a bike and take it easy on a new car. All are very wrong! Both need broke in hard and brake pads need set. A manufacture could never tell you these things though for liability reasons. Could you see our moms setting pads from 60-10-60-10 etc etc going WOT to almost a full 100% brake and back over and over till brake fade? People would be dying left and right and sue.

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13 370z-

bacalhau16

Its more then just the tire in my case. The alignment has def thrown the car off as well.

Regardless, I have found a pair of front tires and will install them next week.

Need to find those lock out bolts as mentioned for my camber arms.

And heavily consider the front camber arms

bacalhau16

Finally installed the front tires amd it has made a world of difference. Car is neutral in cornering and no longer crabwalks when shifting. Lesson learned : do not mix and match tires on a 370z, it does not like it at all.


Full suspension mods are still coming together though. Missed out on a deal for front camber arms, so im still searching.