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Lots of good info and opinions here. So.. my 2 cents.... H&R bolt on (not the loose stud one) worked great on my 2012 (red also) with 18" stock, 20mm
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#1 (permalink) |
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Lots of good info and opinions here. So.. my 2 cents.... H&R bolt on (not the loose stud one) worked great on my 2012 (red also) with 18" stock, 20mm front/25mm rear. When I got ready to trade I removed them, and used them on my new 2014 w/19" Rays, Sports Pkg, with no issues at all.
Go to H&R website and enter your car information. Be sure to read the notes (click on) to be sure of fit or call their 1-800 #. The 20/25s look great and fit perfectly. Sorry I don't have the part #s anymore. I didn't know anything about all this either at first, but it's not hard. Cheers, Chuck |
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So I finally took the plunge on this yesterday. Here's my story.
Since everyone on here seems to have differing opinions it was hard to know what size to get. I decided that using 10 or 15's was not something I wanted to tackle or pay for (since you have to remove the brakes and the hub and swap out studs) . So it was either 20 or 25. Since you can't return them after putting them on, and they cost $150, I decided to eat a little freight and only order 2. I had both of them put on the same side of the car so I could see what 20 looked like up front and in back. Here's what I've determined based on what I have on my car, with stock tires and sport wheels, stock camber alignment. All observations are from looking straight down from the top of the outside fender. FRONT 15 would be about 1/4" inset 20 is flush 25 would poke about 1/4" BACK 15 would be flush 20 pokes about 1/4" 25 would poke about 1/2" I am not a fan of poke. Poke to me reminds me of 2 things, 4 x 4 trucks (which look good with poke), and ricers with Honda Civics with ridiculously offset wheels (which looks stupid). I prefer flush. Knowing this, I LOVE the 20's on the front. They are perfectly flush. BUT, 20's on the back are slightly too much. I would prefer 15's better. Anyone liking the 25's on back likes poke. So if you want flush, 20 front and 15 back is the way to go. So I had a big decision to make; do I buy 2 more 15's for the back and go through the hassle and cost, or do I just stick with 20's even though they poke slightly. I decided to just stay with 20's. I'm 95% happy with that look. It's not perfect for me, but I just don't want to screw with the other kind, or pay for it. Pictures up next. (Just uploaded the pics. For some reason they are now darker and not as clear as they are as originals. Sorry)
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates Last edited by Bonzo; 04-24-2015 at 01:53 PM. |
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at stock height 20 on front pokes a little bit especially when you look at the car from the side/rear.
i hated that look and decided to get the nismo wheels for the perfect fit for base. ![]() |
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- 20 on the front does not poke past the fender, it is flush. - 20 on the back does poke about 1/4". I don't think you can properly judge poke from the front or rear really because of the shape of the fender and the camber in back. Using that, the stock wheels are flush (because the bottom of the tires are flush with the top of the fender). I know when you look at the car this is how you see it, but trying to describe the amount of poke from that vantage point is not going to be consistent because it changes as you go up or down the tire. It would appear you prefer a light inset, so I think your idea of 15 on front and 10 on back would do that exactly. That's why, since I would prefer flush, the 20 front and 15 back would be my ultimate preference. Same as you, just 5 mm (0.2249718785") more to make it flush. I am having this work done for me, so the whole stud replacement option would probably be as much as having my brakes done. Waste of money in my opinion. If I were doing it all myself it might be a different thing. I will live with the 20 on back even though 15 would look slightly better. And by the way, Nismo wheels are good looking wheels, but the sport wheels are GREAT looking wheels. ![]() ![]()
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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Here are some sequential pictures of the front wheel looking straight down on the rim.
It starts from farther out then moves closer to the vehicle for a more vertical picture. NOTE: You will see that my wheel was slightly turned while taking these pictures so they aren't perfect. But I think if you can visualize a little you can see that the wheel/tire would be exactly flush with the rim if it were turned straight.
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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Here are some sequential pictures of the back. You will see that in the end there is about 1/4" poke.
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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I have a 2013 Sport 370 with the latest Sport wheels. The 19" 'Swirl' ones.
I had them off today while doing toe bolts and lockout bolts. I specifically looked at the backs (insides) of my wheels today because I couldn't find a definitive answer here regarding whether or not one can FOR SURE get 20 mm BOLT-ON spacers on the front of a car with the latest Sport wheels. As I see it, if the mounting nuts holding the spacer to the hub sit flush to the face of the spacer (that is, don't stick out beyond the outboard face of the spacer) there is a TON of room to accomodate a stud that sticks out well past the face of the spacer, and (and further, I'm speculating a bit here) likely even plenty of room even if the mounting lug nut does too. I didn't take a picture, but there is a pretty decent size, deep cutout between the wheel mounting holes. I'm now going to try H&R bolt-ons all around now. 20 mm on the front, either 20s or 25s on the rear. I will update this with how this turns out. I know there are some people who say they've not had a problem, but about an equal number who state you cannot. I need to find out for myself. 104 |
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I took some pics but they were on a BB and were so atrocious I haven't posted them. My pics look JUST like these. There is no way I could go to 25s on the rear. I bought one pair of 20s, now I'll get a second pair. With reference to my above post; There were absolutely NO issues with the spacer mounting lugs extending past the face of the spacer, so cutout room on the wheel is of no consequence. (the stock studs did though) The room is there, it's not needed, at least not for the lugs. I will still have to look at the front wheels again. 104 Last edited by Zipper 104; 06-06-2015 at 02:59 AM. Reason: addition |
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So, I've read this thread from start to finish (almost) and cannot find what I am looking for.
After seeing a fellow Cleveland Z Club member's car with front and rear wheel spacers installed (20 front and 25 rears), I really liked the way the wheels filled the wheel well. I decided on Ichiba spacers and when installed, they were perfect. They fit like a glove and was exactly what I had in mind, until: A friend and I drove to Watkins Glen racetrack for an event sponsored by his Alma Mater. When I entered the freeway, I hit about 65 MPH and I thought that the wheels were going to fall off ![]() The car felt to me that the tires were way out of balance; mostly the fronts, but in the rear as well. Every time we stopped, the nuts were checked and were found to be tight. After the 5 hour drive, my arms were tired and the next morning before our laps at The Glen, I removed the spacers in the hotel parking lot. Once removed, the car was perfect again. At speeds up to 100 MPH, the balance was right on ![]() So, fellow wheel spacers users, what the heck is going on? I made sure that the spacers were absolutely centered (the spacers are hubcentric) and the mating surfaces were clean and had no debris. I have been working in a torqueing company for 42 years and I know how to secure wheels in the proper sequence and torques, so that was not the issue. I love the way they look, but if I can't figure out what's going on, they will NOT be reinstalled. Any insight is appreciated...
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Hey guys, it's been a while since I've been on the forum. Glad to be back. I know I'm just one of many who have put spacers on their car, but I thought I would post pictures after the install anyway. Hope it helps anyone searching for spacers.
![]() My setup: Suspension: Stock OEM Wheels: OEM Sport Rays Tires: Bridgestone S-04 Pole Position F: 275/35/19---->20mm spacer R: 305/30/19---->25mm spacer The spacers were very high quality. Fit and finish was excellent. Z1 had great customer service. Very happy with this decision
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I know this post is about 1.5yrs old, but would like to know what was the outcome in resolving the issue. ![]() |
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I'm going to piggy back on this thread.
Which one would you guys prefer: Ichiha, H&R or B2Desgns spacers? Looking spacers with great quality. Any input ?
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Sold: 2014 Magnetic Black Base. Current: 2014 Magma Red 370z Sport | ARK Grip Exhaust | 25mm HR Spacers | GTR Button | DRL Mod |
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