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Chuck claims they do. So what gives?
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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he probably forced his wheel onto the stock stud by torquing down the lugs....maybe even used an impact gun so didn't feel it while torquing it lightly.
it's only like 2mm that the stock stud hits the back side of the wheel. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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The bolts will make contact but only a corner of the bolts will make contact with the wheel, not the entire top of the bolt. I didn't notice vibration. But after about 3k miles I dremeled the back of the wheel, took about a minute per hole. If you have a dremel its easy to do.
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2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I never noticed any contact ??? Rode perfect. Interesting. I had oem 19s on with them too.
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09 370Z 6M PW - FBO Best 1/4 mile = 12.926 @ 109 SOLD -- 08 BMW 135i - FBO 12.1@120mph SOLD -- white 09 e92 335 Coupe Mtech - 11.9 @ 119 :-) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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I'd really like to see a pic of the Z dropped with 20*25 combo and 15*20 combo. I'm ready to pull the trigger, but want the more aggressive look just don't want to compromise rubbage.
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2010 Solid Red Z: Mods: Stillen G3 Intakes | BC Coilovers | H&R 20/25 Spacers | Stillen Splitter | Stillen LW Pullie TBI | Red GTR Start | LED Interior | Kenwood Double Din
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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hey i found the picture i posted a while ago where you'd need to grind off a little bit on the stock front wheels if you use 20mm built-in stud type and notice the wheel's disc is hitting the stock stud.
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I have 20mm bolt ons and the OEM studs don't touch the Rays at all. I took them off to confirm, no contact.
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-320whp / 259wftlbs- SP Rays -- RE-11s -- SpecialtyZ Tune -- Swift Springs -- Stillen 25R Oil Cooler -- Stillen G3 Intakes -- Berk HFCs -- F.I. 12" CBE -- Stillen Sway Bars -- Es14 Spring -- INGS+1 lip -- CF Spoiler -- GTR Start Button -- VLED Parking Lights -- PWJDM V2 shift knob |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
you purchased these from me right ? lol so maybe Im not crazy
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09 370Z 6M PW - FBO Best 1/4 mile = 12.926 @ 109 SOLD -- 08 BMW 135i - FBO 12.1@120mph SOLD -- white 09 e92 335 Coupe Mtech - 11.9 @ 119 :-) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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my friend has ichiba spacers on his evo x and the acorn nuts seized to the studs.... destroyed 2 of the little sockets it comes with trying to get it off. make sure you guys use some sort of anti seize on any spacer or lug for that matter!
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Humm those aren't acorn nuts but open tapered lug nuts. Im not sure if you want to use antiseize on the small lugs as it might back out after mounting your wheels. Infact, I use loctite blue on the mounting nuts. Never had an issue removing them on my Kics even after snow season... I did notice that the lugs included in my ichiba set appeared to be of lower quality than the Kics or Eibach sets I have...
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Dropped on Eibachs.. 25mm rear - 20mm front
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09 370Z 6M PW - FBO Best 1/4 mile = 12.926 @ 109 SOLD -- 08 BMW 135i - FBO 12.1@120mph SOLD -- white 09 e92 335 Coupe Mtech - 11.9 @ 119 :-) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin, TX
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With the Ichiba v2 20mm bolt-on spacers on the front wheels... the OEM studs stick out a little bit too far and actually dig in to the inside of the wheel. It still tightens down, but the studs to slightly damage the wheel on the inside. I've posted pics here before and also had vibration issues. I've since gone to the H&R DRS and replaced all oem studs...
In my opinion... do it right the first time.
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Berk HFC & CBE, Stillen G3's, AMS Crank Pulley, JWT Flywheel, 4.08 Gears, UpRev, H&R Springs and 20mm Spacers, JDM Rear Fog, EVO-R Front Lip and CF Upper Cover, 305's |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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