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The good and bad of R comps at the track

Not sure, maybe an inch lower than stock? I have to remove the mud flaps to clear a lot of things. My fix is to buy a smaller new pair

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Old 06-26-2014, 12:31 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Not sure, maybe an inch lower than stock? I have to remove the mud flaps to clear a lot of things.

My fix is to buy a smaller new pair of A6 for the front, I will keep my new rears.

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Originally Posted by speedfreek View Post
How low is your current setup on the Fortune's? What are your plans in fixing the suspension so you do not eat your liners and cut the tire on the fender?

I am still trying to dial mine in as well.
I have had slicks for a long time, just not at the track and I don't usually do back to back comparison.

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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Slicks are fun ain't they. Now what's your next step. Trailering the Z back and forth?
I think it is worth it

Quote:
Originally Posted by wstar View Post
I know the feeling. After last weekend, I'm starting to seriously wonder how hard it would be to convert over to center-lock hubs (I don't think anyone even makes them for our car yet?) and install a set of air jacks in the car, but whatever all that would cost, I need that for other car upgrades that matter when it's actually running!
I honestly don't remember what I got, but I believe you can go even higher on the springs. They are not bad, but I am not going to say they are perfect. There are some weird quality control issues, but what are my other options at this price range right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoxp800 View Post
I have been looking at the Fortune Auto 510's with custom spring rates of 14k/11k.
How do you like the
Fortune's?
My current set up is Swift R 10/10 an Nismo shocks.
You could risk your $1200 R6 driving to the track. Just remember every mile you drive, you start to lose grip from the Hoosiers.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ENT-Z View Post
Is there anyway you could drive to the track with R6s on (assuming dry sunny weather of course)? My nearest track is about 15 miles away. They are technically DOT legal, correct?
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
Forgeline wheels. I almost got them when I got my wheels.

Forgeline: Center Lock Wheels and Center Lock Conversion
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:34 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
Not sure, maybe an inch lower than stock? I have to remove the mud flaps to clear a lot of things.

My fix is to buy a smaller new pair of A6 for the front, I will keep my new rears.



I have had slicks for a long time, just not at the track and I don't usually do back to back comparison.



I think it is worth it



I honestly don't remember what I got, but I believe you can go even higher on the springs. They are not bad, but I am not going to say they are perfect. There are some weird quality control issues, but what are my other options at this price range right?



You could risk your $1200 R6 driving to the track. Just remember every mile you drive, you start to lose grip from the Hoosiers.
I've decided on stance comp 2's. I want true's and it's the only thing affordable. FA won't make true's, Odi at feal has good report but I want a two way, 18k/7k should be a good place to start.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I've decided on stance comp 2's. I want true's and it's the only thing affordable. FA won't make true's, Odi at feal has good report but I want a two way, 18k/7k should be a good place to start.
What do you mean FA won't make true's? I thought that the 510's were true type and the 500's were OEM style. I was confused by this because when I ordered I thought the 500's were true type as well when you look at their product page.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What do you mean FA won't make true's? I thought that the 510's were true type and the 500's were OEM style. I was confused by this because when I ordered I thought the 500's were true type as well when you look at their product page.
Nope.
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