Proper ride height for Track

wrxrcr

I went with MCS 2 way non remote. I have ast 4100s on my subaru but i would discourage anybody from buying them. I have been waiting 2 months for a shaft and they still don't know when it will be in. AST parts come from Holland. Products | Motion Control Suspension | Damper and Coilover Systems

cossie1600

On the fortune setup, basically the preload is set independently of the height. On some of the lesser coilovers, you set the height and it would change the preload at the same time.

For the 370z, some suspension kits will modify the rear suspension to a point where they would turn the rear shock back to a "strut" type of setup with the spring sitting on a perch in the back instead of the "tub" in the back.

At the end of the day, good shocks are very good expensive. Prepare to custom build them as the 370z doesn't have a lot of options

cossie1600

Have you looked into the PSS10s? Ideally, the best would be to get a set of used one and revalved the shocks and springs, but used sets don't exist for the 370!!! Unfortnately you have no choice but to spend money on custom solutions. I thought the Fortune setup would be a good stopgap, but it just didn't work out like I hope it would.

synolimit

Have you called? Maybe they'll up grade the springs for you? If OEM isn't as strong as true type then you only have like a 6k in the rear. And like said earlier, a good start would be a 18k front. Maybe try 18k front with a 15-16k rear?

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13 370z-

SPOHN

That might be to stiff for our rear. Lol. Anyways due to the nature of are cars being tail happy a little softer is really needed. I'm seeing where some are removing the sway bar completely after a good Coilovers setup

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synolimit

I meant that for an OEM setup. What would 15-16k be? 8-9k in a true?

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13 370z-

03threefiftyz

MCS makes a decent off the shelf set-up. You can buy double, non remote shocks (package better than the remote shocks) from them for about 3300. That does not include springs, top mounts, etc.

03threefiftyz

I use a 15k in back with no bar....on real tires. Again, something in the 18/16k range is going to be pretty highly sprung on street tires, even with aero.

GSS138

Hey merry Xmas to everyone btw.

Yeah if I was going full track beast with this car right now(not yet). I would probably go into the 15-16K front 10-13 K rear. I am aiming for starters at 13K front and probably just 9K rear until I can throw some aero on it. I only do road courses, if I did autoX I would probably go 14/10 to start. Biggest problem I have with the car is putting power down on exit. Like mentioned above, the rear end just likes to fly out on exit which would indicate *** end is rolling over and a general lack of stiffness.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

martin82

Strange because that's what this car does best is put power down while hitting apex and exit..... What's ur alignment

GSS138

Completely OEM. That's part of the problem. Trying to finance the whole shebang at once. But I may just end up needing to do the camber arms wo having the dampers yet.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

cdoxp800

This is a GREAT thread.. I have been looking a coilovers myself. I am currently running Swift R Spec and the OEM Nismo Shocks with Hotchkis sways.

All this good info is helping me lots on what I want to upgrade to. Keep it going.

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2011 Brilliant Silver NISMO 370z. #: 0046.
PPE LTH | MillSpec Cats | F.I Exhaust | Akuma Intakes | Rotora 6/4 Brakes

martin82

Just do camber arms first, good alignment will make a huge difference, but ideally u would do coilovers at the same time so you can corner balance and align it (pay alignment only once)

03threefiftyz

Tires and a diff will make the single biggest impact on how the car handles and exits the corner.

GSS138

Yeah that is kind of why I went the route of buying the Quaiffe diff first. Everything I read suggests that it is 1 of two things:
1. Not stiff enough springs
2. LSD.

I couldn't pass up the Xmas sale at Z1 lol. Got it for less than a grand. The OEM suspension all though not terrible by any means(for OEM it is quite good). Man it is way too bouncy. Scares the heck out of me at BRP from grapevine through club corner, and I feel I really limit myself at AAA and Big willow through the fastest parts, because once things start shaking, I back off. BRP the car hardly ever gets planted it seems with all the camber and elevation changes. Definitely need some faster springs as well.

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.