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Sway Bars, Track and AutoX?

Syno, I'm guessing you don't have an engineering background since you seem very confused on how deflection calculations are made. The "I" column in the chart is "Moment of Inertia".

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Old 10-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Syno, I'm guessing you don't have an engineering background since you seem very confused on how deflection calculations are made. The "I" column in the chart is "Moment of Inertia". It plays a huge role in how much something will deflect (how stiff it is).

fwiw I have a degree in mechanical engineering so I do know a thing or two about these kind of things.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Syno, I'm guessing you don't have an engineering background since you seem very confused on how deflection calculation are made. The "I" column in the chart is "Moment of Inertia". It plays a huge role in how much something will deflect (how stiff it is).

fwiw I have a degree in mechanical engineering so I do know a thing or two about these kind of things.
I understand that. Even plugged the numbers in myself so yes I see long bar vs long bar there is a difference. But if metals are not the exact same and mounting points are not in the same location (WL is adjustable, hotchkis is not) then we don't have a winner. we still need to see torsion testing on the actually bar and not just a round piece of tube numbers. That's why I like the chart, just not 100% and why I still like data vs opinion.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I understand that. Even plugged the numbers in myself so yes I see long bar vs long bar there is a difference. But if metals are not the exact same and mounting points are not in the same location (WL is adjustable, hotchkis is not) then we don't have a winner. we still need to see torsion testing on the actually bar and not just a round piece of tube numbers. That's why I like the chart, just not 100% and why I still like data vs opinion.
I don't think isolated testing like torsion tests are going to be as valuable as telemetry and lap times. Simplest question to ask yourself is...did it make me go faster? Can't really do that safely and consistently anywhere else other than at the track.

When you test it on the track you test the entire solution, driver, car and the part that has been changed.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Syno, there is a place called Mid Ohio, go. It will answer all your questions.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Syno, there is a place called Mid Ohio, go. It will answer all your questions.
Will do, raced there many times. But please lay off the lease and track experience comments with this car!

Who the **** here had a Z gutted, track prepping, custom brake duct lines, cut a OEM hood up, LTH, custom CBE, custom diff cooler etc etc, all within the first 5 months of ownership??! I bet almost 100% of you didn't! Rome wasn't built in a ******* day and my track car won't be either so relax.

And yeah it's leased. $400 a month now and after I buy it unless they drop my residual since the 14 residuals will be a couple grand cheaper around the same turn in time. Better than $657 a month limiting me on buying parts monthly. Yeah in the end of payments ill end up spending about 2k more but 2k over all that time is nothing when I'm saving $257 a month in the now.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Will do, raced there many times. But please lay off the lease and track experience comments with this car!

Who the **** here had a Z gutted, track prepping, custom brake duct lines, cut a OEM hood up, LTH, custom CBE, custom diff cooler etc etc, all within the first 5 months of ownership??! I bet almost 100% of you didn't! Rome wasn't built in a ******* day and my track car won't be either so relax.
Sorry, but this thread is all about track experience. Hence the title of this thread. I want to know what bars people are running on the tracks, autoX, and what's working in the real world. I'm not really interested in someone's idea of what to run, or what they run in the mountains or the street.

You don't have to have a full custom gutted car to get on the track or race. My Nismo has a ton of track days on her, and all done in stock trim (plus big oil cooler) in her first 7500 miles of her life. So man up, head to the track, and get an education out there. You'll find people will start to give you less cr@p when your out there actually doing something more then playing forum racer.

For my reason behind my question why do I think I need sway bars. I'm looking for the car to stay flatter in the corners, and to push less in the front. For the time being I'm running V710's 275/40 in the front and 295/40 in the rear.
I've been eyeing bars for a long while now, but wanted to wait till my race season was over and start fresh when a new setup next year in a new class. I ran street tires (Nitto Invo's 265/30 and 305/30) in a race tire class till the last couple races when I got my hands on the V710's to finish out the season. I came in 4th over all, and missed 3rd place by one point in championship, under a Sti, and two corvettes.
It seems like every bar that is out there is different, and everyone seems to be running something a little different. With help from a few of you on here, and your inputs, it gives me a good base where to start. I might need to buy a couple sets of bars, but the truth of what works for me will be found out on the skid pad.

Here is a fun stock trim track pic of my Nismo.

This is of course a picture of a picture. I don't have any digital copies of the original, and I wasn't driving the car in this pic.
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I can't say I noticed anything with the front bar. The car maybe oversteers a little more but that could just be me giving it more gas trying to oversteer or the horrible OEM alignment numbers and the body roll is still horrible. Again though the car feels ok taking sharp turns but not a lot of confidence.


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Originally Posted by Apollo8642 View Post
Sorry, but this thread is all about track experience. Hence the title of this thread. I want to know what bars people are running on the tracks, autoX, and what's working in the real world. I'm not really interested in someone's idea of what to run, or what they run in the mountains or the street.

You don't have to have a full custom gutted car to get on the track or race. My Nismo has a ton of track days on her, and all done in stock trim (plus big oil cooler) in her first 7500 miles of her life. So man up, head to the track, and get an education out there. You'll find people will start to give you less cr@p when your out there actually doing something more then playing forum racer.

For my reason behind my question why do I think I need sway bars. I'm looking for the car to stay flatter in the corners, and to push less in the front. For the time being I'm running V710's 275/40 in the front and 295/40 in the rear.
I've been eyeing bars for a long while now, but wanted to wait till my race season was over and start fresh when a new setup next year in a new class. I ran street tires (Nitto Invo's 265/30 and 305/30) in a race tire class till the last couple races when I got my hands on the V710's to finish out the season. I came in 4th over all, and missed 3rd place by one point in championship, under a Sti, and two corvettes.
It seems like every bar that is out there is different, and everyone seems to be running something a little different. With help from a few of you on here, and your inputs, it gives me a good base where to start. I might need to buy a couple sets of bars, but the truth of what works for me will be found out on the skid pad.
Never told you to get a WL and I told you what others have done in autox. I simply stated I don't think I felt a damn thing from just the WL install, read my first post. My next posts were only questioning what someone said and what I thought about 1 other bar out there and we made our peace.

And thanks, didn't know what I needed to do for a track day. Unlike you though I have enough intelligence before I get on the track to read other peoples issues with this particular car and correct them before hand. Hence the suspension upgrades, tires, oil cooler, diff cooler, racing seat, roll cage, brake duct cooling lines etc etc. I have plenty of track time, probably more than you. I'm not getting on a track where I know my skill will out do the car. I'm not driving with over heated brakes, cooking my diff or engine oil, not rolling the car if pushed to hard and getting flopped around in the car in a OEM seat and seatbelt. So before you tell me how to get on a track and man up realize I've probably raced longer and more than you. And since I can see you made some bad choices by only installing a oil cooler and running horrible tire sizes twice! Trust me, I won't be taking your advice about track days.
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Old 10-27-2013, 01:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't think isolated testing like torsion tests are going to be as valuable as telemetry and lap times. Simplest question to ask yourself is...did it make me go faster? Can't really do that safely and consistently anywhere else other than at the track.

When you test it on the track you test the entire solution, driver, car and the part that has been changed.
True, I agree. But if a part was truly better/bigger/stronger/stiffer than a driver should be able to get into a car without knowing what was changed and go faster. If not then what was the point of spending the money? If these cars love big front bars then a torsion test would be valuable data for people to plainly see "I need that one."

Seems everyone likes the hotchkins here while a thread in 12 everyone was hating on it. Stating WL and stillen did testing while Hotchkins just slapped it on a car and flicked the wheel back and forth to show youtubers its stiffer. Chrisslicks even stated its poor R&D and a lot of tuning had to go into his settings to make up for it. To each their own.
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