370z Road Race Fuel Pump

I have it up on our website with a link to installation instructions.

There is actually only 1 left. If we do another batch, it will go quickly now with the new CNC here. However... The hesitation of making any more is because I am about half decided on discontinuing it. I have some new ideas for an easier to build and easier to install product.. just waiting to see if I can get it into existence.

I need this! phunk, pm me please

Hey now...the cuts & curses mean you earned it :eek:

Great product...works great

Im definitely in the market for this product or the next. Not in the budget within the next few months, but just to let you know there's still demand for a product Phunk.

I will also need your product over the next 2 months or so

Ooo I like what I hear. I have been hesitant to pull the trigger since I don't want to lose my 340lph upgraded pump that came with my turbo kit and I'd prefer not to run dual pumps in the RRP. I'm hoping your new solution will solve this issue??

Yes. What I have been doing initial sketches on is a new sending unit that replaces the stock one, but is able to have an internal filter and regulator (or can be removed), and venturi siphon that doesnt depend on any specific primary fuel pump to be used. Also with the ability to support a secondary pump for high power. It is intended to be a merge/replacement of the RRP and standard twin pump product, and even a really high output single setup with RRP properties.

Its a tall order, metaphorically and literally. It would never fit the 350z/G35/G37 fuel tanks in this form, but the 370z is blessed with a much deeper tank.

It is unlikely that it will eliminate starvation like the RRP does, but it should suppress it well enough to satisfy the needs of most people.

Is it going to be a bolt on like remove and reinsert. I have been hesitant about the order because of the labor involved

It's only hard the first time :)

Yes if I make the new model, it would be an assemble and then drop-in sort of thing. It will require the disassembly of the stock sending unit and will reuse a few of the components from it.

My fuel sending unit is f anyway

Both the existing RRP and the theoretical next generation model do not involve any permanent modifications that would prevent you from being able to return to stock condition for trade-in. There is a nylon hose that gets cut off the sending unit, but can be replaced with standard 5/16 SAE R10 fuel hose later.

or, unless you plan on reselling the parts after lease turn in, you could just leave them installed. Noone would ever know and it would save the hassle of tearing everything out again.

Phunk, I was just kidding about strapping a Gas can to my wing...:) Don't stop making something for this. LOL, I will need it in the future.

I am doing a holiday weekend sale on the website starting right now. The last RRP is included. I have no idea if it will sell or if it will go very quickly or what... but if you order it, please post here so that others know. If I am not able to get to my office computer when it sells, I wont have an immediate way to change the website.

Its at 15% off, so about $175 discount.

Used mine for the first time this weekend at Homestead and I love it! Didn't get gas until under a 1/4 tank. Thank again!


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Excellent... and you are the first to confirm back to me that its working well with forced induction! Have you had a chance to watch fuel pressure under full throttle to see if it holds flat all the way to redline or if there is any slight drop on top to say that the 255 pump is nearing its limit?

No I haven't but my car isn't big HP, it wasn't falling off with the stock pump. My Aquamist computer was having problems so we shipped it back to the factory but when I get it back up and running I will make a trip to my tuners and I will record a video of the gauge on the dyno for you.


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Just ordered it. My question is how many hours does it take to install it? I am hesitant to do this in my garage due to the garage being under the living room and the smell of fuel will linger around the house. If I were to take it out to a shop, how many hours will they charge me, 2-3?

Probably more like 4 to 6 hrs for a shop first time doing it. I would really recommend doing it yourself so you understand how it all works, which will give you a better idea of where to look for troubleshooting. I used a el cheapo transfer pump from Home Depot and was able to get it damn near empty. Which ever route you go print the instructions in color. When printed in B and W there are a few that look different.

Charles is a great resource for any questions / hiccups you might run into.

Order confirmed, thank you.

I regretfully must be honest and say that it's highly unlikely anyone would get this done in 2-3 hours. Maybe if they had experience with it, and if you took care of some of the stuff such as did all the wiring and etc.

I would be surprised if the fuel smell infiltrated the house if you were to make sure the tank was as nearly empty, and left the garage door wide open... Perhaps push the car halfway out while working. If you take a break you can cover the tank openings.

Then again I could be wrong.

It has been a matter of everyone's personal experience level. We have had the entire spectrum of people who get it done quickly in a day without asking a question, to people who needed a lot of questions answered over a period of a week, and anywhere in between.

It can be done in phases if you change the order up a little bit, leaving the car no more than 15 minutes from being buttoned up and running if you need it to. That would be saving the hard part for the very last, where you cut off the filter feed hose on the stock module and connect the new hoses while putting the module back in the tank.

If you're doing it yourself. Drive the Z unil empty or close to it. Remove the seats. It makes it easier to work. What I did was to remove the rear plastic panels. Makes it a whole lot easier. :tup:

2 things that I had problems with after the install. One is the hose clamps. Make sure you have them position properly. I had one that I didn't have up high enough on the fitting. After a year the hose popped off the fitting on the driver side, middle hose. Flatbedded the Z home on that one. :shakes head: To fix that problem. I cut about 2" of hose off because the end was separating. Which brought me to my next problem. Hose length. Because of the way I installed the hoses inside the tank. I couldn't get enough slack on the middle hose on the driver side side. So now I had a hose that had too much tension on it when installed. After about 3 weeks. The fitting that snaps on to the RRP broke the plastic catch. Flatbedded home again. :shakes head: Thanks to phunk, he shipped me some fittings and a length of hose that I spliced in. No more problems. All of this was self-inflicted. Nothing to do with the kit itself.

phunk is a great guy to deal with. We text back and forth whenever I have questions or anything else. :tup: He's on my Christmas card list now. :icon17:

ok, I guess I will do this myself. I am expecting a 1 sec gain on track from a smaller load :)

Take your time and you'll have no problems. Give yourself room to move about in the car. Once you have removed both the right side fuel pump and left side sending unit. Take a small camera and take a couple of pictures inside the tank from both sides. I held the camera in one hand, and used a socket extension to push the button on the camera to take the picture. This will give you an idea of inside the tank. Don't tighten down too tight on the zip-ties inside the tank that hold the 3 hoses into place. Problem #2 for me. Pay attention on the clamp position. Problem #1 for me.

will do. actually I have noticed my fuel sender unit is funky at times. It isn't accurate and sometimes it doesn't move at all. Is this something I can fix while I am at this?

Yes, as part of the install you will check the ohms on the sending unit. Good time to check the float resistance on the main pump as well. You can find the specks in the FSM. Just take your time and read. Rusty put up a good reference thread too.

Some things you may want to source now if you don't have them.
1. A good solder gun
2. RTV silicone fuel safe
3. Crimpers for the specific connectors that come with the kit. I used **** crimpers on my wire strippers and wish I had the correct ones. Phunk can tell you the type to get.
4. Workmans mirror
5. Transfer pump for the fuel.
6. Most important one ...PATIANCE :icon17:

I had some issues with installation but, looking back most were self inflicted and getting frustrated that it wasn't going as smooth as I thought it would have.

You have lots of people to ask about it though and when you done and on the track next no worries on high G right handers at 1 to 2 dots on the gauge. The thing just works.:tup:

Anything is better than a full tank before each session. I will lose at least 50lbs of weight from just going half tank. Also gas cost $3/gallon more at the track, I figure I burn 12 gallons at each track day, it will save me $36 a day. I will pay this off after 28 days

I can give you a short list of things to check out on the level sensors to figure out where the problem is. If looking into this level sensor thing, I would push back the RRP install a few days to a week and fill the tank full and then observe the level sensor ohms at each side to see which one or both is not reading full. This could be useful information when in later for the install but the install needs an empty tank so it could not be checked at that time.

thanks

You forget the MOST important thing of them all...a **** ton of band aids for the small cuts you will get from that *$(#*% edge of the gas tank.:icon14:

Tracy Ramsey

:iagree:

I had more cuts when I removed the driver side heat shield when installing the LTH's then installing the RRP. :eek:

Finally started installing my kit yesterday afternoon. I'm doing it with the seats still in place as my garage is too small to allow me to remove them.
I made it up to the "hard part". Getting the OEM fuel pump out of the car without soaking the interior needed the help of a second pair of hands but went smoothly :)

Don't feel bad. I got a 5 lb garage with 20 lbs of crap in it. :shakes head:

Well I think "hard part" should be renamed to something more appropriate. Something like "hella hard part". Or "almost impossible hard". Or... Well you got my feeling!
Already spent 2 hours on it and I'm exactly at the same point.
I'm trying a 3rd arrangement for the fuel hose end inside the tank to be able to grab them when the OEM fuel pump is in place. The space to put your hands is so freaking small!

Did anyone had to remove the "Seatback center finisher" (the plastic thing that is vehicule wide and in front of the 2 opening to the fuel tank?
I get the feeling that in order to be able to connect the fuel hooses to the fuel pump, I'll need to remove that, but it's not written in the installation guide, so I'm a little puzzled...

I removed both seats and all of the plastic panels in the rear. You have to start from the rear to remove the panel in the front. As for the hoses. I used string and tied them up.

Here is my install thread. It might help you. ;)

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...p-install.html

Looking at your pics, I realise that you had the Seatback center finisher in place to the moment when you attached them to strings. I suppose you realized at that timer that it was impossible with in place, right?

Yea, that and when I mounted the relay.

Rusty: This part went off after the 5th or 6th or 7th (I lost count of them...) OEM fuel pump removal. That's the connector where you plug/unplug the syphoon hoose.
Did that happen to you as well? Was only putting it back in place? Did you glue it?
Thanks in advance!

Man, the hard part is hard... I gave up finishing it today (already 5pm in france) and I won't be able to work on it in another 3 weeks... Sh*t!

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...b279d56629.jpg

crap... that is not supposed to come off. It looks like yours was poorly sonic welded together. They are rather strong and I am surprised to see that happened.

I am concerned about glues holding up inside fuel. I will have to try and find some information on that. Some glues are really strong and seem to almost melt the plastic together, perhaps it is a viable option.

Damn Nissan for not letting us purchase individual components of the fuel pump module.