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There was no need, BGTV8, to assume he was naive to the terminology. Mikegreco, I'd suggest ignoring those posts. Most people on this forum are very helpful and won't flog
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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There was no need, BGTV8, to assume he was naive to the terminology. Mikegreco, I'd suggest ignoring those posts. Most people on this forum are very helpful and won't flog posters regardless of the perceived quality of the post.
Mike is experienced and drives his car hard, so his opinion and experience are worthwhile. I sent you a PM, but I've never had brake problems with my 370Z after changing to RBF600 and Carbotech pads for track days. If you love the car, don't let the potential brake issues stop you. And the Car and Driver Nismo disaster was purely their own fault...no car just loses 100% braking instantaneously without a catastrophic failure (eg blown line). Someone missed some warning signs and didn't back off if the accident was fade related.
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#2 (permalink) |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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well, I must say, the one time that mine went out, they felt just a little soft in one corner, so I backed off, and by the time I coasted into the pits a half mile later it took me about 50 feet to stop from 20 mph. When they do go, they give very little clue.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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I nearly lost the car at Long Beach this weekend to this exact problem. The fluid boils and you have no pedal. For 10 laps everything was good, then I had 2 soft stops and then it was *gone*. Well routed ducting is what you need. Duct intakes that are inside the frame rails have to make too many turns to get good airflow to the brakes - you need something that starts outside the frame rails (requires cutting holes in the front facia) or comes in from underneath the car.
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Brian Kleeman Nissan 370Z - Pirelli World Challenge GTS #07 D.W.W. Motorsports | DXD Racing Clutches | SPL Parts | Aeromotions.com |
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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