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Going to performance driving school. 2010 Z oil temp question

I have a 2010 370 touring/sport. I have read many many threads addressing the oil temp issue. There seems to be general agreement that for tracking, an oil cooler is

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Old 11-15-2010, 08:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Going to performance driving school. 2010 Z oil temp question

I have a 2010 370 touring/sport. I have read many many threads addressing the oil temp issue. There seems to be general agreement that for tracking, an oil cooler is needed.

Here is my question (actually 2):

1. How many people with 2010 Z's have had oil overheating problems?
2. Do I need an oil cooler to do a few laps on a track with an instructor?

I have no serious interest in racing (that could change after my course next spring). A Nissan Motorsports oil cooler costs $795 plus installation. I figure it will end up costing about $1,100 if I let the dealer do it (and I want to do that to avoid warranty issues). If I can avoid that expense it would be great.

I figure if I crash the car during the course I will tell the insurance company I was taking a safe driving course. Well, it is! Right? Right?

I need expert help here.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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depends on how hot it is. You might be ok this time of year. I have never tracked without the cooler, but most here in atlanta can only get 3-4 laps at Road Atlanta in the summer before the car shutting itself down. I think if its below 60 and you go easy, as you would as a first timer, you should be ok.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't have an oil cooler and I've done some seriously "spirited" driving, auto crossing, ect... I watched the gauge the entire time and while I was pushing the car pretty hard.

Temps never got higher than 240-ish... as soon as I would drop the revs for a cool down lap they would drop to 200-220ish.

This was all in about 55*F weather,but I foresee an issue come summer time.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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An oil cooler is recommended for even a daily driver.. there's no question these cars have oil temperature problems.

If you're concerned about the warranty, have the dealer install it. The Nissan Motorsports is a good cooler, but carries a hefty price tag. Your dealer should also be familiar with purchasing and installing STILLEN products, which covers the same warranty as the Nissan Motorsports version (parts only), but in having a dealer install it, definite good faith. Should shave quite a bit of $$ off the installation.

There have been plenty of consumers and magazine editors that have had trouble with as little as 2 laps on the track, the odds are very good you'll be pushing higher temperatures, and possibly a crappy day with a limp mode situation.

In regards to insurance, it's up to your provider. But I have seen a car totaled at California Speedway with AAA insurance during a driving event, and it was no problem, as it was not a race session (IE no one passing another car), just a high speed instructional event. If you have an issue, that's the route to take, instructional driving training course.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It's also worth mentioning that you should really check with your insurance company before assuming that it will be covered.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just went out to Infineon weekend or so ago - almost installed the cooler I have sitting but went without it - wasnt too bad - took it easy 1 out of 4 sessions - drove her pretty hard otherwise. Temps in the 60s
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It's also worth mentioning that you should really check with your insurance company before assuming that it will be covered.
Even though the events are NOT timed, you'll be surprised what your insurance company will come up with.

During my recent DE, when I kept it easy I was okay. I was about 250-260. However, in one of the run when I was pushing it a little harder (Not as hard because of my slightly older brake fluid and being nervous about losing brake), I think I went over 270-275 (that's in cool 50s temp). That's just 20ish degrees below limp mode. Redline (what I use) is a GREAT oil and are designed to withstand such oil temp and abuse. So I wasn't nervous with such temps. HOWEVER, if you're serious about going to track regularly and you're still using regular dino oil, oil cooler is a must for tracks. I need to do my brakes next (new synthetic fluid, possibly new track/street compound pads and) then I'll focus on oil cooler.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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BTW, you're gonna have a blast! keep it easy during the first few sessions. LEARN LEARN LEARN as much as you can from your instructors. Ask questions. Then, slowly apply those techniques and you'll love it! Remembers, it's NOT the fastest, it's the smoothest!

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Old 11-16-2010, 12:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleLion View Post
I have a 2010 370 touring/sport. I have read many many threads addressing the oil temp issue. There seems to be general agreement that for tracking, an oil cooler is needed.

Here is my question (actually 2):

1. How many people with 2010 Z's have had oil overheating problems?
2. Do I need an oil cooler to do a few laps on a track with an instructor?

I have no serious interest in racing (that could change after my course next spring). A Nissan Motorsports oil cooler costs $795 plus installation. I figure it will end up costing about $1,100 if I let the dealer do it (and I want to do that to avoid warranty issues). If I can avoid that expense it would be great.

I figure if I crash the car during the course I will tell the insurance company I was taking a safe driving course. Well, it is! Right? Right?

I need expert help here.

Where and when? I've ran DE events at Pacific Raceways and without pushing the car extremely hard the oil temp was hovering around 260. If you install an oil cooler and don't block it during the cooler months (here) your oil temperature will not climb above 180 and it will take almost 20 minutes to get there. I have an oil cooler installed but put a shield in place for the fall/winter months..seems to work just fine. Typically I'm at 200 on the freeway with the shield in place.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikon FM View Post
Where and when? I've ran DE events at Pacific Raceways and without pushing the car extremely hard the oil temp was hovering around 260. If you install an oil cooler and don't block it during the cooler months (here) your oil temperature will not climb above 180 and it will take almost 20 minutes to get there. I have an oil cooler installed but put a shield in place for the fall/winter months..seems to work just fine. Typically I'm at 200 on the freeway with the shield in place.
March 28 at Pacific Raceway I think. It's Proformance racing's performance school. I guess I am safe to go without the cooler. It will be cool there...it's always cool here. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
BTW, you're gonna have a blast! keep it easy during the first few sessions. LEARN LEARN LEARN as much as you can from your instructors. Ask questions. Then, slowly apply those techniques and you'll love it! Remembers, it's NOT the fastest, it's the smoothest!
I am very excited about this. I have wanted to try a track since I had my first Z (240Z), but I was too poor in those days to install the necessary equipment.

Thanks for the encouragement.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't mention one big thing that may affect my ability to drive on a track: my Z has AT. I have heard the AT is fast as hell. The paddle shifters seem a bit slow to respond, but they do allow bigtime downshifts. I use it regularly on mountain downgrades and it is a real brake saver.

I also replaced my brake lines with teflon/ss and used DOT 5.1 AP fluid, so from a braking perspective I think I am ok. I ordered my helmet last nght (AS 2005 open face). It's going to tough waiting till March.
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleLion View Post
I didn't mention one big thing that may affect my ability to drive on a track: my Z has AT. I have heard the AT is fast as hell. The paddle shifters seem a bit slow to respond, but they do allow bigtime downshifts. I use it regularly on mountain downgrades and it is a real brake saver.

I also replaced my brake lines with teflon/ss and used DOT 5.1 AP fluid, so from a braking perspective I think I am ok. I ordered my helmet last nght (AS 2005 open face). It's going to tough waiting till March.
If you're at the track, saving brake should be last thing on your mind. You should try to find the perfect combination of downshifting and braking during turns. For example, some track will have 5-4-3-2-1 markers by the turn. These numbers are GREAT for finding your perfect time to brake/downshift. For example, after a long straightway, you can mark no. 5 at your braking start point and 3 your downshift point and see how you like it. Then if you think it was too soon, you can change no. 4 to braking start and 2 to downshift etc.

Nice brake lines! I think DOT 4 is better for your ABS. Here's a post from this thread:

brake fluid recommendations

Quote:
Originally Posted by djpathfinder View Post
If you read the label on most DOT4 fluids, it will tell you that you can mix DOT4 with DOT3. You might as well do it right the first time and flush your system with DOT4 brake fluid. If you're careful, you should be able to drain, flush and bleed with new DOT4 and use 2 quarts. Don't use DOT5...that is silicone based and is not compatible with ABS brakes. DOT4 is fine with ABS. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3, and therefore is more performance oriented. Likely overkill for most, especially if your car remains on the street 100% of the time, but if you want to splurge a little it doesn't hurt. Keep in mind, some luxury brands put DOT4 in their vehicles from the factory, eg. BMW, Mercedes-Benz.

In my opinion, if you can afford a good quality DOT4 go for it. If not, a "house brand" DOT4 is likely better than a DOT3 fluid.
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Old 11-16-2010, 12:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
If you're at the track, saving brake should be last thing on your mind. You should try to find the perfect combination of downshifting and braking during turns. For example, some track will have 5-4-3-2-1 markers by the turn. These numbers are GREAT for finding your perfect time to brake/downshift. For example, after a long straightway, you can mark no. 5 at your braking start point and 3 your downshift point and see how you like it. Then if you think it was too soon, you can change no. 4 to braking start and 2 to downshift etc.

Nice brake lines! I think DOT 4 is better for your ABS. Here's a post from this thread:

brake fluid recommendations
AP certifies that their DOT 5.1 is fully compatible with ABS. I just wanted the the higher boiling point of 5.1. Then again, I shouldn't need ABS, right?
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You'll be OK as long as you keep the revs down. If you take it easy and stay below 5-6k rpm, the heat isn't as much of an issue. It's the runs up to redline and sustained 5k plus that really generate heat fast.
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