tested ms confirmed - "stop lamp" fuse pulled = stand still burnouts allowed

V1H · 06-07-2015, 11:15 AM

I've just gone out to try this and found that merely switching ESP OFF will not allow for a burnout on my MY12 370Z. The throttle/valves will near instantly be force-shut and revs drop.
Likewise, merely pulling the fuse will not prevent the ESP from kicking in.

Only ESP OFF + pulling Fuse works... and how it works!!
My rear tyres lit up so fast to easy I nearly lost control over my rear end

Well, it's been my 1st RWD burnout anyway, gonna get more practice once I built a nice toggle switch for the fuse

Cheers

phunk · 06-07-2015, 11:28 AM

The better way would be to put a toggle switch on the brake signal wire to the ecu, this way your brake lights still work.

Zbrah · 06-07-2015, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckd05

i did it with no problems... I am not big on rep points but for some reason I have like none and feel like I share some use full info.. seems the only way is to post some *** and titties, lol...

hook me up with some rep fella's, ha

Just repped ya. Good find!

V1H · 06-08-2015, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

The better way would be to put a toggle switch on the brake signal wire to the ecu, this way your brake lights still work.

It certainly would be a better way to do. I'm gonna do that. I haven't yet dug into the Z's ECU wiring but will do some research on it.
Back in the days I knew every wire of my OBDI car and hijacked about 50% of them

phunk · 06-08-2015, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V1H

It certainly would be a better way to do. I'm gonna do that. I haven't yet dug into the Z's ECU wiring but will do some research on it.
Back in the days I knew every wire of my OBDI car and hijacked about 50% of them

Check out this short and simple thread, it covers it for ya!

Brake Boosting

In that thread I simply talk about doing it, and mention that I had not actually done it myself yet. Later on in the year, I did end up doing it. It works perfectly.

Instead of putting the wire on a toggle switch, I just cut it and taped it back. With UpRev I disabled the P1805 code, and this way I did not need to bother with a toggle switch.

V1H · 06-09-2015, 02:17 PM

Hi phunk,
I've been searching the service manual for the right wire to hijack. Might you point me in the right direction if you've already figured it out?
I found more than one potential STOP LAMP SWITCH:
Terminal 122 of ECM connector M107
Terminal 116 of BCM connector M123
Terminal 118 of BCM connector M123

I found the STOP LIGHT FUSE number 7 in the driver side fuse box, but failed to trace it to it to one of the above terminals. Ultimately I'd like to understand why interrupting the brake wire keeps the brake light working while the fuse won't. The manual's wiring diagrams are hard to read

Japanjay · 06-09-2015, 04:35 PM

I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

phunk · 06-09-2015, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V1H

Hi phunk,
I've been searching the service manual for the right wire to hijack. Might you point me in the right direction if you've already figured it out?
I found more than one potential STOP LAMP SWITCH:
Terminal 122 of ECM connector M107
Terminal 116 of BCM connector M123
Terminal 118 of BCM connector M123

I found the STOP LIGHT FUSE number 7 in the driver side fuse box, but failed to trace it to it to one of the above terminals. Ultimately I'd like to understand why interrupting the brake wire keeps the brake light working while the fuse won't. The manual's wiring diagrams are hard to read

Please see te thread linked in my last post, it shows you exactly which wire.

phunk · 06-09-2015, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Japanjay

I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

IMHO, by the time you have a tire on the back of your car worth doing a long burnout with, you will have removed those brakes for base model 350z brakes and 15-16" wheels.

Japanjay · 06-09-2015, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

IMHO, by the time you have a tire on the back of your car worth doing a long burnout with, you will have removed those brakes for base model 350z brakes and 15-16" wheels.

I agree with you, if I was going for fully drag racing. I would also add go about a degree positive camber on the rear and 20k springs. But I want to do a little drag racing here and there while still building towards road racing. A controllable brake bias system would ideal....

SouthArk370Z · 06-09-2015, 08:34 PM

V1H, in the connector pinouts you posted, notice the H.S. to the upper left of each connector. That tells you that you are looking at the connector from the Harness Side. The wire color abbreviations are not always intuitive - there is a list of color abbrevs in one of the first sections of the FSM. Hope that helps.

V1H · 06-10-2015, 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Please see te thread linked in my last post, it shows you exactly which wire.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

V1H, in the connector pinouts you posted, notice the H.S. to the upper left of each connector. That tells you that you are looking at the connector from the Harness Side. The wire color abbreviations are not always intuitive - there is a list of color abbrevs in one of the first sections of the FSM. Hope that helps.

Many thanks guys! I now know that it is a PINK wire on Terminal 122 of ECM Connector M107. Was on the right trail

Crowtribe · 11-19-2015, 10:35 PM

I pulled the stop lamp fuse, my brake lights went out, ABS and slip lights came on, but throttle is still cut when I apply the brakes. Traction control was off. Is there something different with the nismo? I sure wouldnt think so, but this is frustrating

Crowtribe · 11-19-2015, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V1H

I've just gone out to try this and found that merely switching ESP OFF will not allow for a burnout on my MY12 370Z. The throttle/valves will near instantly be force-shut and revs drop.
Likewise, merely pulling the fuse will not prevent the ESP from kicking in.

Only ESP OFF + pulling Fuse works... and how it works!!
My rear tyres lit up so fast to easy I nearly lost control over my rear end

Well, it's been my 1st RWD burnout anyway, gonna get more practice once I built a nice toggle switch for the fuse

Cheers

When you say ESP, are you talking about the traction control button?

Fowlman01 · 12-16-2015, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crowtribe

I pulled the stop lamp fuse, my brake lights went out, ABS and slip lights came on, but throttle is still cut when I apply the brakes. Traction control was off. Is there something different with the nismo? I sure wouldnt think so, but this is frustrating

I don't have a Nismo, but I have the same problem as you do with my 2015 370Z. It is very frustrating.

06-07-2015, 11:15 AM	#46 (permalink)
V1H Base Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 244 Drives: 2013 370Z-TT GT Edt Rep Power: 3366	I've just gone out to try this and found that merely switching ESP OFF will not allow for a burnout on my MY12 370Z. The throttle/valves will near instantly be force-shut and revs drop. Likewise, merely pulling the fuse will not prevent the ESP from kicking in. Only ESP OFF + pulling Fuse works... and how it works!! My rear tyres lit up so fast to easy I nearly lost control over my rear end Well, it's been my 1st RWD burnout anyway, gonna get more practice once I built a nice toggle switch for the fuse Cheers Zbrah likes this. __________________ 501 BHP, 590 Nm (422 rwhp) *AAM* TT+I/Plenum\|*CJM* S1 FRS\|*C/Clutch* Stage 2\|*RJM* CMC\|*ZSpeed* CSC\|Z1 Oil cooler\|*Motordyne* Turbo ShockWave)))\|*Torqen* Coilovers\|*Stanceparts* AirCups\|*Amuse* bodykit\|*GReddy\|AEM\|ONEighty\|Mishimoto\|STILLEN\|Eibach\|SPL\|B&M\|Radium\|EcuTek\|BC Forged* RS45

06-07-2015, 11:28 AM	#47 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,654 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 944523	The better way would be to put a toggle switch on the brake signal wire to the ecu, this way your brake lights still work. JARblue likes this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

06-09-2015, 02:17 PM	#51 (permalink)
V1H Base Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 244 Drives: 2013 370Z-TT GT Edt Rep Power: 3366	Hi phunk, I've been searching the service manual for the right wire to hijack. Might you point me in the right direction if you've already figured it out? I found more than one potential STOP LAMP SWITCH: Terminal 122 of ECM connector M107 Terminal 116 of BCM connector M123 Terminal 118 of BCM connector M123 I found the STOP LIGHT FUSE number 7 in the driver side fuse box, but failed to trace it to it to one of the above terminals. Ultimately I'd like to understand why interrupting the brake wire keeps the brake light working while the fuse won't. The manual's wiring diagrams are hard to read __________________ 501 BHP, 590 Nm (422 rwhp) *AAM* TT+I/Plenum\|*CJM* S1 FRS\|*C/Clutch* Stage 2\|*RJM* CMC\|*ZSpeed* CSC\|Z1 Oil cooler\|*Motordyne* Turbo ShockWave)))\|*Torqen* Coilovers\|*Stanceparts* AirCups\|*Amuse* bodykit\|*GReddy\|AEM\|ONEighty\|Mishimoto\|STILLEN\|Eibach\|SPL\|B&M\|Radium\|EcuTek\|BC Forged* RS45 Last edited by V1H; 06-09-2015 at 02:21 PM.

06-09-2015, 08:34 PM	#56 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324197	V1H, in the connector pinouts you posted, notice the H.S. to the upper left of each connector. That tells you that you are looking at the connector from the Harness Side. The wire color abbreviations are not always intuitive - there is a list of color abbrevs in one of the first sections of the FSM. Hope that helps. phunk likes this. __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

11-19-2015, 10:35 PM	#58 (permalink)
Crowtribe Base Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Tennessee Posts: 5 Drives: 12' 370z Nismo Rep Power: 9	STILL can't brake stand! I pulled the stop lamp fuse, my brake lights went out, ABS and slip lights came on, but throttle is still cut when I apply the brakes. Traction control was off. Is there something different with the nismo? I sure wouldnt think so, but this is frustrating

06-09-2015, 04:35 PM	#52 (permalink)
Japanjay Track Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Puyallup Posts: 856 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z MB M6 Rep Power: 14	I am curious to actually how much pressure is still being applied to the rear brakes when doing this? Obviously this isn't like line lock, which is what, if given the option, I would do, but I am going to be installing my Z1 2 piece rotors with XP10's on the rear and I don't want to destroy the rotors nor the pads.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
DIY: Rear Fog-Lamp "Z" light	Caravanshaka	DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself)	20	09-13-2014 05:02 PM
Do It Yourself Fog Lamp (EASY)	lastblueprint	DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself)	84	06-05-2014 02:08 PM
"Warning" Carbon Fiber Z emblems "DO NOT FIT"	NXTAZEE	Exterior & Interior	2	12-20-2009 03:49 AM