First tracking experiences

[Guyfromthere]

Hey guys!

I just came back from my first ever track experience and it was amazing (never thought running alone in the track could be soooo much fun!!! ), even tho the oil temperatures hit 130C and i had to stop . So I have a few questions for you tracking peepz.

(I plan to daily drive my Z and go to track in the summer once or twice a week.)

1) When I hit 125C+ my clutch started to stuck to the ground, is this CSC failing or is that because of the high temps? Clutch went normal after cooling off.

2) Would you recommend going with Z1 motorsports 34 row oil cooler (which is forum's favorite I guess?) or are there better alternatives? Is thermostatic plate needed, because I live where temps can drop to -10 in the winter.

3) I plan on getting Stillen swaybars for less body roll on dd activities and track also. Do I need to change anything else to my suspension or they will run great on stock?

Really sorry for the noob post, all the help is greatly appreciated!

[cv129]

My 2 cents.

1) that's symptom of clutch fluid boiling. Add insulated clutch lines and swap to high temp fluid. Motul RBF 600, Torque RT700, Castrol SRF, and many other choices.

2) fast intention also makes a 34row kit. Z1 and FI both use the same Setrab core, but I believe FI has the option to add a fabricated block off plate (or just DIY something to cover the oil cooler surface when winter hits, layers of painter's tape or velcro an piece of aluminum onto the oil cooler will work). Yes thermostatic plate, as it limits oil from circulating into the cooler when oil temp is below 180F.

3) That depends on your skill level, or how good you plan to get. I'll defer to the experienced track guys

[Guyfromthere]

Originally Posted by cv129

My 2 cents.

1) that's symptom of clutch fluid boiling. Add insulated clutch lines and swap to high temp fluid. Motul RBF 600, Torque RT700, Castrol SRF, and many other choices.

2) fast intention also makes a 34row kit. Z1 and FI both use the same Setrab core, but I believe FI has the option to add a fabricated block off plate (or just DIY something to cover the oil cooler surface when winter hits, layer of painter's tab or velcro an piece of aluminum into the oil cooler will work). Yes thermostatic plate, as it stops (almost) oil from circulating into the cooler when oil temp is below 180F.

3) That depends on your skill level, or how good you plan to get. I'll defer to the experienced track guys

Wow, thank you for your fast response! I am definately gonna change the fluid to RBF600, since that's what I'm going to change my brake fluid too as well! I think I'm gonna order Z1 SS clutch lines too then

Thank you so much for the response, feels good to know that it's not my CSC failing!

[cv129]

Originally Posted by Guyfromthere

Wow, thank you for your fast response! I am definately gonna change the fluid to RBF600, since that's what I'm going to change my brake fluid too as well! I think I'm gonna order Z1 SS clutch lines too then

Thank you so much for the response, feels good to know that it's not my CSC failing!

Well please take a precaution. Clutch pedal stick to floor is indeed a symphom of boiling clutch fluid, but that doesn't mean your CSC can't or isn't already failing. I believe the only way to lengthen CSC life is push and release clutch gently, be mindful of how far you push the clutch pedal, and keep the fluid clean/fresh.

[Guyfromthere]

Originally Posted by cv129

Well please take a precaution. Clutch pedal stick to floor is indeed a symphom of boiling clutch fluid, but that doesn't mean your CSC can't or isn't already failing. I believe the only way to lengthen CSC life is push and release clutch gently, be mindful of how far you push the clutch pedal, and keep the fluid clean/fresh.

If it starts doing this on my daily drive time, I will most definitely order Z1 CSC elimination kit, but since it happened only when my temps were around 130C (~265f) I'll invest that money into the oil cooler Thanks for the advice!

[Rusty]

I have the Z1 34 row cooler with the thermostatic plate. In the winter time. I put duct tape across the oil cooler.

You need to insulate the clutch line down by the exhaust pipe. Change your clutch fluid. Use Motul 600 or better.

Stainless brake lines will help. When you do that. Change your brake fluid too. Motul 600 or better.

Stillen bars are ok for street and beginner track rat. Once you start getting faster. You'll need a stiffer bar in the front. Most of us use the Hotchkis front bar.

When you start doing all of this. You are going down a rabbit hole with no bottom. Have fun and be safe.

[beauz]

Im running a 25 row oil cooler with thermostatic plate. I hit 120c on track in summer here in australia. Sits around 115c when ambient temp is 14 to 18c in winter on track. Brake fluid and clutch fluid and lines are a must to function properly in the heat. Dont forget about fuel starve issues of the 370z. Keep your tank full or check out CJ motorsports road race pump for a permanent fix. Also eventually your going to find the stock diff pretty useless on track as the viscous lsd overheats and starts behaving like a open diff pretty quick. Haha its never ending really. We are a twisted bunch of humans us track folk.

[Eagle]

Originally Posted by Guyfromthere

Hey guys!

I just came back from my first ever track experience and it was amazing (never thought running alone in the track could be soooo much fun!!! ), even tho the oil temperatures hit 130C and i had to stop . So I have a few questions for you tracking peepz.

(I plan to daily drive my Z and go to track in the summer once or twice a week.)

1) When I hit 125C+ my clutch started to stuck to the ground, is this CSC failing or is that because of the high temps? Clutch went normal after cooling off.

2) Would you recommend going with Z1 motorsports 34 row oil cooler (which is forum's favorite I guess?) or are there better alternatives? Is thermostatic plate needed, because I live where temps can drop to -10 in the winter.

3) I plan on getting Stillen swaybars for less body roll on dd activities and track also. Do I need to change anything else to my suspension or they will run great on stock?

Really sorry for the noob post, all the help is greatly appreciated!

1. You have the right idea, get your fluid changed and see if that works. If not, time to think about your CSC.

2. I have the Z1 34 Row. It's a great kit and works well, however I'm at that point where I am still hitting limp mode even with the oil cooler. Personally, I need more cooling for my Z. Sounds like you are in the same situation, you could get something like the AEM 72 row cooler, get two 25 row coolers and add fans. Not many people are running a setup like this but it seems like for the ambitious track driver it will become a necessity in the warmer months. Regardless what setup you go with, I would recommend you get the thermostatic sandwich with it.

3. Stillens are ok. I run a Hotchkis sway bar in the front and the stock one in the rear on stock suspension. The hotchkis is pretty much the stiffest bar you can get off the shelf. Works well on the street and on track. I'm happy with it.

[cv129]

Originally Posted by Eagle

2. you could get something like the AEM 72 row cooler, get two 25 row coolers and add fans.

Originally Posted by beauz

We are a twisted bunch of humans us track folk.

Originally Posted by Rusty

When you start doing all of this. You are going down a rabbit hole with no bottom.

I think Rusty and Beauz very accurately describes Eagle's oil cooler suggestion haha. Dual 25 row with a fan, I think that otta do

[ban25]

Welcome to an all consuming hobby Here are some tips based on my experience:

track set up

Definitely look into racing brake fluid -- Castrol SRF is top of the line -- for both the clutch and the brakes. And make sure to insulate your clutch line as suggested above. The Z1 and F.I. 34-row coolers are very similar with a slight edge to the F.I. version.

If your track has right turns, eventually you're going to want the CJM Road Race Pump.