Engine and Tune

GSS138

So car is at about 56K, never been tuned, basic catback exhaust, HFC's and CAI.

Seems like car is not as "zippy" as it was(although my track times continue to go down lol). Besides the basic concepts and parts, I really don't know much about servicing an engine. Was looking for some good advice on what you would do if you were me at that mileage etc. Car is 80% track usage, hopefully by next summer will be a track only car.

Here's what I am thinking of doing, please feel free to expand or say "nope that's dumb waste of money", "as long as you are doing this, you might as well do ...".
1. Spark Plugs.
2. Clean all air intakes, manifold, suction line, K&N's, anything else?
3. ECU TEK (need to fix syncro rev) and get a basic tune.
4. ???

Never dynode car, no idea what whp is currently. What would you do next and why? All thanks in advance!

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Chuck33079

Don't forget to clean the MAFs.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Rusty

What you and Chuckie have said. That should do it. With a tune from a dyno. You can change a few things. Also with a dyno sheet. You should be able to tell how tired the motor is. And it gives you a base line for later on. As for the Z not feeling as "zippy". That could be you being so used to it.

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Chuck33079

Maybe an oil analysis next time you change the oil?

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

BGTV8

I cleaned my K&N's and MAF's, re- oiled and found 14Kw atw .... after I realised the filters had not been serviced for over 2 years ......

GSS138

This is a very real possibility, I clean my filters and re oil once or twice a year, but I have never cleaned the MAFs. TY.

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Chuck33079

A compression test and a leak down test would tell you if the motor is on the way out.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

GSS138

Thanks guys. I think some of it is that I am used to it, I am getting pretty decent at driving and pushing it, the times are starting to come in range of what I want, still 2-3 seconds off where I need to be but getting there. But I have really never done any engine service/inside cleaning etc. I want to get the ECU tek fix for the FD/SRM, but want to have everything in order before I go Dyno and tune it.

I have thought about doing PPE headers, but not sure the cost+weight is justified vs a new set of tires lol. bang for buck the 5-10 HP that headers might bring is not worth it at this time, I just want to make sure it's on par ~300 rWhp, anything over that is just bonus imo.

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ban25

What tires are you using currently?

FWIW, I have considered a major upgrade to my Z, but now I'm leaning towards an M4 instead.

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2017 Corvette Z06 7MT | 1LE | Stage 3 | DSCSport

GSS138

Dead RS-3's that need to be changed. M4 is a fast car, much faster than the M3 from what I have seen.

If you are going to sink some real money into it, I would go NA build. I think also a single turbo build could work decently. Either one, there are two main factors you will have to deal with 1. Weight reduction. 2. Aero and cooling. Neither of which is cheap. In the long run though, running a German car at the track, ee gads, it probably costs more.

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ban25

I'm running Bridgestone RE-71Rs, which I'm quite happy with and will likely continue with in an M4, until something better ultimately comes around (in the tire world, this means every year practically).

The key to controlling costs in an M car is to keep the consumables affordable. So I'm looking at a configuration with the standard iron brakes, rather than carbon ceramic rotors that cost $10k and need to be replaced every 500 track miles. As soon as an AP Racing BBK is available for the M4, I'll switch out to that -- the performance can't be beat, and the rotors/pads are cheap.

There's still the question of when I'll get the M4. Soon, if I decide to go that way. But I just ordered a new set of Carbotech XP10s and Stoptech rotors, so that will give me a little wiggle room.

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2017 Corvette Z06 7MT | 1LE | Stage 3 | DSCSport

GSS138

Tires right now are out of control. Hankook sold out to tire rack and now bridgestone is undercutting them on price. Hankook can rot in hell as far as I am concerned. The tire business is so sh1tty and shady, I don't even want to give any of them my money currently.

I like the strategy on the brakes. I have switched to stop techs and hawk DTC's. happy with both, but the DTC's are very, very, very harsh. Buddy is trying out the Endless ME-20 on a different setup so we are comparing notes.

I am not a fan of the Carbotechs. I think the number of track days you get for the price you pay is not worth it. I like them initially, but they fall off fast. Endless pads are twice the price and last 3 times as long, they perform all the way down to the metal.

I am impressed with the Stop tech rotors so far, but the Hawk DTC's have already started eating them up.

Can't go wrong with AP!

Try a set of Blanks and Me-20's imo. People balk at the price of a set of Endless pads, but in my own experience, they are worth every penny and actually cheaper to run over time.

[

QUOTE=ban25;3323819]I'm running Bridgestone RE-71Rs, which I'm quite happy with and will likely continue with in an M4, until something better ultimately comes around (in the tire world, this means every year practically).

The key to controlling costs in an M car is to keep the consumables affordable. So I'm looking at a configuration with the standard iron brakes, rather than carbon ceramic rotors that cost $10k and need to be replaced every 500 track miles. As soon as an AP Racing BBK is available for the M4, I'll switch out to that -- the performance can't be beat, and the rotors/pads are cheap.

There's still the question of when I'll get the M4. Soon, if I decide to go that way. But I just ordered a new set of Carbotech XP10s and Stoptech rotors, so that will give me a little wiggle room.[/QUOTE]

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Rusty

When you clean and reoil your K&N's. Don't over oil them. If you do. You'll have a mess inside the CAI, all the way to the throttle bodies. And your MAF's will be coated too. Just lightly spray the outside of them.

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GSS138

I might be guilty of this

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Current Mods: Vorpal Weapon +5.

Rusty

I learned that lesson long ago.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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