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Originally Posted by PharmDZ I've pulled that with my hp+ pads. Overall I liked em but more towards the end of their life they started to Not work so well
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#1 (permalink) | |
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#2 (permalink) |
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anyone have any advice for someone thinking about trying autox finally? lol
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#3 (permalink) | |
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![]() Most all the local SCCA chapters have a good novice program. They will give advice on getting your car through tech inspection, and stuff like tire air pressures to run. They should also have a novice walk through to explain the layout of the course. Try to ride along with an experienced driver to get a look/feel of the course at speed. Have someone ride along with you, they can give you pointers on what to look for while out on the course. If you wanted you go attend an event and just ride along a few times, talk to other drivers and then prepare to drive the next event. Just go out and have fun.
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#4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#5 (permalink) | ||
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-Don't skip the track walk in the morning. You'll regret it if you DNF your first couple of runs because you got lost amongst the cones. You'll probably get somewhere between 7-10 runs in a day, around a minute'ish each. Make them all count. -Ride alongs are hugely important if you're new to AutoX or the track layout. A turn might look huge as you're walking the track but things tend to seem a lot smaller/tighter when you're at speed. This ties in to not wasting runs. -Invest in a decent set of magnetic numbers for your car. There are tons of sites that sell them for between $30-70 depending on how fancy you want them to look. Trying to sit there and create numbers and class letters out of blue tape on the side of your car is a pain in the ***, especially if it happens to be windy that day. -Check the SCCA website or your local SCCA chapter's website for class rules (you'll want to get that right for when you order your numbers). A bone stock 370Z should be in the B Stock class according to the 2015 rulebook. You might be in the B stock prepared class judging by the mods in your sig, but check the book to be sure. -Don't worry about other people's times. Focus on consistently improving your own times and not wasting runs with DNFs. -Have fun. ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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More great info, except, you would be in ASP, not BSP Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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#7 (permalink) | |
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![]() So would a stock 370Z (non-Nismo) be A stock or B stock? Slightly modded 370Z would jump to ASP? I guess it doesn't really matter too much unless you are competing at national level. Every time I tech at my local SCCA autoX they basically just make sure the wheels are bolted on and your battery is tied down. Nobody checks things like treadwear rating on tires, suspension mods, etc. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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The 3 classes that the 370z falls under are:
B Street STR (max 255 wide tire) ASP ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Ark Performance / Eibach / Forgestar (CF10's Daily, F14's Race)/ Project Kics / K&N / Z1 / TWM Performance / RJM Performance / Koni / Hawk Performance Last edited by cruzthepug; 03-06-2015 at 02:01 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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so what class would my Z fall under being that i'm running breathers, tune, and 305 tires in the rear?
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#10 (permalink) |
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Sounds like ASP but without a complete list of mods (suspension, drivetrain, etc.) I can't say definitively.
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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no suspension mods. only intake, exhaust, and tune. also a 34 row oil cooler. most are listed in my sig.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Just the intake takes you out of BS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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seems kinda dumb that a small power adder bumps you up into a class with Ferraris and whatnot.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Sounds like ASP to me FP. Welcome to the land of crazy built STis and Evos! Haha it's fun regardless of class. I've beaten some pretty quick turbo AWD cars there before. Makes it more competitive and challenges me more.
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