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-   -   Sacramento Meets/Chat (http://www.the370z.com/northern-california-region/70282-sacramento-meets-chat.html)

Tempestz 11-25-2013 11:59 PM

So go with braided lines, and get someone to put the fittings on? That sounds like a good deal to me

myotorsports 11-26-2013 12:57 AM

BTW, finished my cooler install. Went with the RPW 48 row for the engine and 24 for the trans... fittings up. Wow runs right on the plate's thermostat @ 185... Pushed it a couple of times, holds steady. Went with Amsoil Premium (7 qts!), the car seems much happier now :driving:

Tempestz 11-26-2013 01:13 AM

awesome news! im probably gonna get this for myself for Christmas.

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 02:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myotorsports (Post 2583275)
BTW, finished my cooler install. Went with the RPW 48 row for the engine and 24 for the trans... fittings up. Wow runs right on the plate's thermostat @ 185... Pushed it a couple of times, holds steady. Went with Amsoil Premium (7 qts!), the car seems much happier now :driving:


Sweet! thats one heck of a oil cooler man. I think I actually might need to replace my sandwich plate as it seems to cool regardless of the temp (even though i bought the supposedly thermo one). In past winters I have attached a blockoff plate to the core to block airflow which worked just fine but its a pain to get up in there. Whats your oil temps cruising in 6th when its below 60 outside?

In regards to the kit yeah you can save money with that other one thats for sure, I suppose I went with the name brand and ready to go kit just for piece of mind and ease of install. Perhaps it will be even cheaper this weekend? who knows. I am really looking at bushings at the moment, really want to upgrade my suspension but from the research Ive been doing I am thinking its equally vital to replace the stock rubber bushings. I am definitely eager to get off my 60k mi stock suspension tho. Also, I wish I had the dough to buy those wheels off you Superdave so I could have some track only tires but damn there are always so many things to buy...

myotorsports 11-26-2013 10:18 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2583303)
Sweet! thats one heck of a oil cooler man. I think I actually might need to replace my sandwich plate as it seems to cool regardless of the temp (even though i bought the supposedly thermo one). In past winters I have attached a blockoff plate to the core to block airflow which worked just fine but its a pain to get up in there. Whats your oil temps cruising in 6th when its below 60 outside?

I am really looking at bushings at the moment, really want to upgrade my suspension but from the research Ive been doing I am thinking its equally vital to replace the stock rubber bushings. I am definitely eager to get off my 60k mi stock suspension tho.

Sup Nate, Thx! The temps ran right on the thermo when cruising @ 60mph last night. Might just be because it's new. I have some other theories about that as well, since Cb was having the same issue with temps. IMHO it should run right on the thermostat if the cooler has enough capacity and the thermo is working correctly- just like the cooling system. BTW, who makes bushings? I really like urethane and I've installed Energy Suspension on everything else I drive... They work great! I like suspension mods... Sorry about the crappy pic...

Cbtech 11-26-2013 12:05 PM

Jeeeesus that is a huge cooler!

sent via my hand puter-ma-jig

Cbtech 11-26-2013 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2583303)
I think I actually might need to replace my sandwich plate as it seems to cool regardless of the temp (even though i bought the supposedly thermo one). In past winters I have attached a blockoff plate to the core to block airflow which worked just fine but its a pain to get up in there. Whats your oil temps cruising in 6th when its below 60 outside?

I had the same issue. I was driving in the rain one day and it would NOT get any hotter than 140° no matter how much i ran the RPM's up. What sandwich plate are you using?

I called the sales guy at RPW Racing and he said that it doesnt completly block off the oil flow even when cold. I still got a replacement and it does take a while to get up to 180 but it will stay up there after it gets heated up. So i think i might have had a bad plate too. They wanted me to send mine in for testing but i got too busy and forgot to send it in :icon14:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus
In regards to the kit yeah you can save money with that other one thats for sure, I suppose I went with the name brand and ready to go kit just for piece of mind and ease of install.

I believe the stillen cooler kit still requires some modification but i could be wrong. All i did was use a $3 Deck Flashing plate to create the mount and then spray painted it black to match the cooler. I think the hardest part of the install was making sure all the fittings were tight enough and that was just due to me not having all the right tools.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/3avany8e.jpg

SuperDave 11-26-2013 03:14 PM

CB, that's a clean install, I like the hoses, but you might want to flip that thing over so the hoses are on the top, or upgrade your oil pump. I wonder if anyone has mounted one in the preferred orientation.
http://www.racing-stuff.com/images/oilcoolermount.gif

myotorsports 11-26-2013 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave (Post 2584310)
CB, that's a clean install, I like the hoses, but you might want to flip that thing over so the hoses are on the top, or upgrade your oil pump. I wonder if anyone has mounted one in the preferred orientation.
http://www.racing-stuff.com/images/oilcoolermount.gif

Interesting SD, I might just do that because right now G3s are out of the equation… Need to fab a whole different mount tho… maybe later...

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 04:17 PM

Yeah that is a pretty install CB, the lower routing makes for a much less cluttered routing compared to mine which travels right next to my right air filter of the Gen 3. I also had to retighten my fittings once or twice to stop a slow leak. I think the mounting with fittings on top is so that the oil cooler stays full when the car is shut down and doesn't oil starve the engine while its being filled up by the oil pump. (I could be wrong on this but this is what I recall hearing when I went to install mine a few years ago.)

On another note found a really good page on oil an oil lubrication/cooling in general late last night: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

This is the only data I have ever seen that talks about lubrication at low oil temps. I had figured that it was important and knew the majority of engine wears occurs right after startup but this goes very in depth and really educates you on how critical proper viscosity and temps are.

Edit: Even if you don't read it, one key takeaway: don't get on it if your oil is cold! Not just your water temp (throwing a bunch of cold water on a hot engine block isnt good in the long run either)

Cbtech 11-26-2013 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave (Post 2584310)
CB, that's a clean install, I like the hoses, but you might want to flip that thing over so the hoses are on the top, or upgrade your oil pump. I wonder if anyone has mounted one in the preferred orientation.
http://www.racing-stuff.com/images/oilcoolermount.gif

hmmm...Id like toe see the reasoning behind the top mount versus the bottom. All i can think of is increased oil pressure but I don't think the pump is working that hard to have to worry about it being an issue with the smaller row cooler. I also originally did it this way to be able to drain the cooler at oil changes but at this point im not fuckin with the hoses anymore. I finally have them not leaking because they are on so tight.

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 04:21 PM

lol @ our timing

SuperDave 11-26-2013 04:45 PM

It's just a matter of flow. In the poor position the oil cooler drains at rest and the oil has to be pushed through it. In the good position the cooler remains full and is being pushed out of the cooler by the natural flow of oil into it. In the best position, gravity produces the natural flow through the cooler and no additional pushing or pulling needs to be done to compensate for the additional path that the oil has to travel through.

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave (Post 2584529)
It's just a matter of flow. In the poor position the oil cooler drains at rest and the oil has to be pushed through it. In the good position the cooler remains full and is being pushed out of the cooler by the natural flow of oil into it. In the best position, gravity produces the natural flow through the cooler and no additional pushing or pulling needs to be done to compensate for the additional path that the oil has to travel through.


Hmmm, would that even matter? the oil is being pumped to the same height in the end. Perhaps you would get better flow through it if the outlet was at the top and the inlet at the bottom due to convection in the oil?

Edit: I take convection idea back, after thinking about it a bit more... it doesnt actually make any sense and wouldnt work that way lol

SuperDave 11-26-2013 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2584464)
On another note found a really good page on oil an oil lubrication/cooling in general late last night: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

Edit: Even if you don't read it, one key takeaway: don't get on it if your oil is cold! Not just your water temp (throwing a bunch of cold water on a hot engine block isnt good in the long run either)

Good article, and exactly to the point:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob the oil Guy
More confusion occurs because people think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem. In fact this is the problem. It is said that 90 percent of engine wear occurs at startup. If we are interested in engine longevity then we should concentrate our attention at reducing engine wear at startup.


SuperDave 11-26-2013 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2584534)
Hmmm, would that even matter? the oil is being pumped to the same height in the end. Perhaps you would get better flow through it if the outlet was at the top and the inlet at the bottom due to convection in the oil?

I think to your point earlier, it's only critical for start up. Once running and the oil system is pressurized, You can turn it any direction you like, its going to flow. But those few crucial seconds during crank and startup to pressure buildup, is where the preference of orientation comes into play. Not saying any one way is wrong, just the preferred method is to let gravity maximize the flow while the pump isn't (during startup).

BuckBarley 11-26-2013 05:03 PM

Hello all,
Would you folks mind chiming in on what exhausts you are running? I might want to hear them firsthand at a meet before I move on one. While I like the FI's numbers and popularity, the Gemini is looking good in terms of price and availability. Your input, guys? Thanks.

Cbtech 11-26-2013 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuckBarley (Post 2584555)
Hello all,
Would you folks mind chiming in on what exhausts you are running? I might want to hear them firsthand at a meet before I move on one. While I like the FI's numbers and popularity, the Gemini is looking good in terms of price and availability. Your input, guys? Thanks.

Welcome to the Sacramento group! :tiphat:

we have having a meet on Sunday December 8th if you wanted to get together to hear the different exhausts that we all have.

BuckBarley 11-26-2013 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech (Post 2584599)
Welcome to the Sacramento group! :tiphat:

we have having a meet on Sunday December 8th if you wanted to get together to hear the different exhausts that we all have.

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Ah, the good ol' Circus I see. I'll check my schedule and I'll put my name on the list if it's a go.

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 05:36 PM

I think we said the same thing different ways Superdave. :tup:

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuckBarley (Post 2584605)
Thanks for the warm welcome.

Ah, the good ol' Circus I see. I'll check my schedule and I'll put my name on the list if it's a go.


Yep, welcome! Myself, I have the FI non resonated exhaust (look down) with FI resonated high flow cats and the carbon fiber mufflers. I'll be at the meet.

onzedge 11-26-2013 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuckBarley (Post 2584605)
Thanks for the warm welcome.

Ah, the good ol' Circus I see. I'll check my schedule and I'll put my name on the list if it's a go.

Welcome!!!

Red_Z 11-26-2013 05:47 PM

Long time no meet... I can make this one :)


1. CBtech
2. Tempestz
3. Alex Cote
4. SuperDave
5. 1st
6. Myotorsports
7. ValidusVentus
8. NickShoelace
9. NINJA
10. ZForce
11. Red_z

onzedge 11-26-2013 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red_Z (Post 2584623)
Long time no meet... I can make this one :)


1. CBtech
2. Tempestz
3. Alex Cote
4. SuperDave
5. 1st
6. Myotorsports
7. ValidusVentus
8. NickShoelace
9. NINJA
10. ZForce
11. Red_z

I am being lazy -- where and when is the meet?

Cbtech 11-26-2013 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2584630)
I am being lazy -- where and when is the meet?

:icon18: Click the link in my sig

ZForce 11-26-2013 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2584630)
I am being lazy -- where and when is the meet?

Donald, there are two meets in the next few weeks. Shriners on 12/14 and another at Arden Fair on 12/8. :tiphat:

onzedge 11-26-2013 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584750)
Donald, there are two meets in the next few weeks. Shriners on 12/14 and another at Arden Fair on 12/8. :tiphat:

Curtis -- what's the story on the Arden Fair meet?

ZForce 11-26-2013 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech (Post 2583258)
that's actually really good price for a Stillen oil cooler! but I would have to say the kids that I purchased is still a better deal. I paid about $300 for the kit with the 24 Row cooler and sandwich plate. the only thing that I would say would be missing would be the name brand. on the hard canyon run that we had a couple weeks ago the car never got over 220 degrees. save your money and go with the kit that isn't as expensive but still does the same job.

So when did you start buying kids? Side job...you pimp :p

Reputable companies have already taken the headaches out piecing together your oil cooler kid. That is why they run more $$. Piece of mind ...imo



Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech (Post 2583260)
I didn't want to deal with the braided lines on that particular kit so I went with the push fittings. unfortunately something went bad with a push fitting and I had a couple of leaks. So myotor made a custom pair of hydraulic hose lines and fittings that prevent it from leaking now. I'm sure if I went with the braided lines it might have been a different story.

Was it really worth the savings now that you had to dinker with it to work without leaks. :icon17:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempestz (Post 2583261)
So go with braided lines, and get someone to put the fittings on? That sounds like a good deal to me

Just another reason to go name brand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by myotorsports (Post 2583275)
BTW, finished my cooler install. Went with the RPW 48 row for the engine and 24 for the trans... fittings up. Wow runs right on the plate's thermostat @ 185... Pushed it a couple of times, holds steady. Went with Amsoil Premium (7 qts!), the car seems much happier now :driving:

Our oil temp gauge is off 10 degrees. A matter of where Nissan located the thermostat (it's positioned where the oil leaves the crank case) when they should have positioned it before entering the crankcase). In a sense after the oil cooler and before it enters the crank case. Confirmed by Z1 Motorsports and documented on a thread somewhere.

So ...when the oil temp gauge reads 220 its actually 230. And 260 is limp mode. Minimal oil temp should be between 190 -210. :tiphat:

myotorsports 11-26-2013 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2584534)
Hmmm, would that even matter? the oil is being pumped to the same height in the end. Perhaps you would get better flow through it if the outlet was at the top and the inlet at the bottom due to convection in the oil?

Edit: I take convection idea back, after thinking about it a bit more... it doesnt actually make any sense and wouldnt work that way lol

As you know VV heat rises. Old school radiators used to have the outlet on top and the inlet on the bottom- the hotter coolant left the engine and was cooled as it made its way down the core. I'm sure the same principle would apply to an oil cooler. Mounting it sideways would make the most of this effect as well, if the core were plumbed this way.

ZForce 11-26-2013 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onzedge (Post 2584752)
Curtis -- what's the story on the Arden Fair meet?

TeamLoveHate is having a charity drive (or drive by and drop off) Check FB, Alan has it posted on ZONC group.

myotorsports 11-26-2013 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584783)
Our oil temp gauge is off 10 degrees. A matter of where Nissan located the thermostat (it's positioned where the oil leaves the crank case) when they should have positioned it before entering the crankcase). In a sense after the oil cooler and before it enters the crank case. Confirmed by Z1 Motorsports and documented on a thread somewhere.

So ...when the oil temp gauge reads 220 its actually 230. And 260 is limp mode. Minimal oil temp should be between 190 -210. :tiphat:

Thanks for the insightful info ZF, I would take that to mean my oil temps are right where they should be... You know how hot it gets here in summer!!!

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myotorsports (Post 2583791)
Sup Nate, Thx! The temps ran right on the thermo when cruising @ 60mph last night. Might just be because it's new. I have some other theories about that as well, since Cb was having the same issue with temps. IMHO it should run right on the thermostat if the cooler has enough capacity and the thermo is working correctly- just like the cooling system. BTW, who makes bushings? I really like urethane and I've installed Energy Suspension on everything else I drive... They work great! I like suspension mods... Sorry about the crappy pic...

Whats up man, I read over this earlier and then went to doing something else and completely forgot. Yeah definitely after hearing this I need to take a look at my thermo plate or just give Stillen a call and see if they can hook me up for cheap or something. The bushings I am looking at are SPL also need to get a set of front upper arms from them soon. They just(FINALLY) started making them and I am not sure how long they will be in production, you just never know. I have seen some specific bushings for sale on their site and some advertised as part of their suspension products but i want to call them and see what they can do as far as just selling me the whole set [of bushings] at once or something. At the moment the only aftermarket "bushing" I have is the tranny mount. Got the Z1 poly mount and love it. Much better shifter feel than it was b4 and you can hear the tranny gear whine more, especially in the lower gears (which may have something to do with how I (didn't) break in my tranny at all really - had to replace it due to 5th gear grind.)

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myotorsports (Post 2584784)
As you know VV heat rises. Old school radiators used to have the outlet on top and the inlet on the bottom- the hotter coolant left the engine and was cooled as it made its way down the core. I'm sure the same principle would apply to an oil cooler. Mounting it sideways would make the most of this effect as well, if the core were plumbed this way.


yeah I was thinking backwards ... but I think you were also thinking backwards when you typed that?? The outlet would be for the "cooler coolant" yes? and hence, at the bottom.

1st 11-26-2013 08:30 PM

Wow where gonna be rollin deep. Can't wait to see the public's faces.

myotorsports 11-26-2013 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ValidusVentus (Post 2584835)
yeah I was thinking backwards ... but I think you were also thinking backwards when you typed that?? The outlet would be for the "cooler coolant" yes? and hence, at the bottom.

Inlet and outlet referring to the pump involved... you are referring to in and out of cooler... all good!

SuperDave 11-26-2013 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584750)
Donald, there are two meets in the next few weeks. Shriners on 12/14 and another at Arden Fair on 12/8. :tiphat:

Shriners is on the 8th. 8am meet at the pancake place. See first post on first page.

ValidusVentus 11-26-2013 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperDave (Post 2585030)
Shriners is on the 8th. 8am meet a the pancake place. See first post on first page.

Looking forward to this, except the part where I get up at 6am on the weekend lol

...but I will do this for car related events, track days, sportscar races... pancake places...

Tempestz 11-27-2013 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myotorsports (Post 2583791)
Sup Nate, Thx! The temps ran right on the thermo when cruising @ 60mph last night. Might just be because it's new. I have some other theories about that as well, since Cb was having the same issue with temps. IMHO it should run right on the thermostat if the cooler has enough capacity and the thermo is working correctly- just like the cooling system. BTW, who makes bushings? I really like urethane and I've installed Energy Suspension on everything else I drive... They work great! I like suspension mods... Sorry about the crappy pic...

Myoto, I dont think your second question about the bushings was ever answered. but i changed all mine to whiteline bushings in my 350Z and loved it. they are polyurethane and affordable. Z1 sells all of them for our cars.

And I am selling all the components of my exhaust, y pipe and midpie are going to Dave, and the little B**** that claimed my axle back never answered his phone today. so now im driving around like a retard with ridiculously loud exhaust...made my head hurt after driving an hour with no exhaust. i will be picking up my nismo exhaust tomorrow after Dave and I get his new exhaust and springs installed. :tup: his car is going to sound SICK!! it it really woke up my car. but troubled times ask for parts to be sold...

onzedge 11-27-2013 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584791)
TeamLoveHate is having a charity drive (or drive by and drop off) Check FB, Alan has it posted on ZONC group.

:tup:

Cbtech 11-27-2013 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584783)
Reputable companies have already taken the headaches out piecing together your oil cooler kid. That is why they run more $$. Piece of mind ...imo

Z1, Stillen and other companies didn't reinvent the wheel they just put their name on it and ran the price up just because they are who they are. Oil coolers have been around much longer than Z1, Stillen or the other companies. The Kit i bought WAS a complete kit I just chose an easier route as far as the hoses were concerned.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech
I didn't want to deal with the braided lines on that particular kit so I went with the push fittings. unfortunately something went bad with a push fitting and I had a couple of leaks. So myotor made a custom pair of hydraulic hose lines and fittings that prevent it from leaking now. I'm sure if I went with the braided lines it might have been a different story.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584783)
Was it really worth the savings now that you had to dinker with it to work without leaks. :icon17:

Had I blown a line and had a major clean up or even worse a blown motor - No it wouldnt have been worth it. but as i admitted it was my lack of tools that created some of the leaks not the equipment. AND im sure if the name brand sshit blew, id still be out a motor since getting them to pay for the failure would be an act of congress.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tempestz
So go with braided lines, and get someone to put the fittings on? That sounds like a good deal to me

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 2584783)
Just another reason to go name brand.

Sorry Curtis, respectfully, ℱuck that. Again buying over priced shit just because of a brand name for something that is not unique to its inventor is opulent ignorance. Ill give you an example:

I loved the way the Short tail exhaust sounded when i first heard it. When I went to go to AAM (the only company at the time making them) to price them out they were $429 :wtf: 2 pipes and a pair of tips for $429??? Retarded. So i went to a local muffler shop and i had them build a pair of shorty's with tips installed for $250. BOOM saved myself $200 (including shipping) and my car (in my mind) sounds awesome. The only draw back (and i could care less) is i can't put my parts list on the door.

http://www.carstylingtips.com/wp-con...r-stickers.jpg


yeah im cool.


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