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All fixed. Was just a couple broken wires right under the roof cover lid
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#2 (permalink) |
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chad.mcvay, congratulations!
Thanks for attaching the photos. Those wires were damaged at the storage cover hinge, where there is some flexing and pulling. We see a lot of hydraulic hoses fail in the same area (line 71 or line 72 going to the rear bow lock cylinder). Judging from the photo, either the wires were zip-tied very tightly together, or something pulled very hard on that stretch of the harness. Did strands of the green wire (rear bow latch open sensor) and the brown wire (ground) actually make contact and thus give the controller the signal that the rear bow lock was open? Klaus Rebuild/Upgrade Service for 2009+ Nissan 370z Convertible Hydraulic Components - Top Hydraulics, Inc
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Top Hydraulics, Inc -- Upgrading/rebuilding convertible top hydraulic cylinders and pumps for Nissan 370Z roadsters and over 30 other brands. Manufacturing new, superior hydraulic hoses for convertible tops. http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/73-nissan-370z-09-13 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Well that's good news Chad. The dealer fixed mine so I did not get a look at the wires before they were repaired and taped over but it was in the same area. I noticed that there is no hydraulic line attachment clamp in your pics (see my earlier post in this thread). We have the same year car. Is this still TBD or missing? I am thinking that the way this clamp is used may be part of the problem.
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#4 (permalink) |
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I actually left it at the mechanics and he fixed it and sent me yesterday photos. He said the wires were really tight right there. There was a holder but he took it off and taped it all where you saw it. There us more slack now and the tape has flexibility son we should be good. The rood worked part way then stopped. If you moved it by hand some it worked more. Then quit. So if anyone has these issues try this. KEN B posted pics and I had the exact same issue. I'm not adding a 4 year extended warranty to my car so this bs is covered and all other parts are covered. Well worth the $2500 for peace of mind. If anyone else wants one let me know. I work at a car dealer.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Roof failed on our 2010 370 Z Roadster (57k) this weekend. Checked the usual suspects: battery, fuses, truck closed - so will take a look at the wiring harness for breaks and insulation cracks. Really not happy as the extended warranty just ended!
Any advice/coaching welcome, as well as any recommendations for a good alround mechanic to help in South Orange County. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sterling, VA
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Like everyone else I'm having issues on my 2010.. I too had the chafed wiring. That was repaired only to find that the magnetic sensor on the driver side roof cover on the hydraulic is intermittently reading open/close and causing issues where the top doesn't open and close correctly.. My idea was to try and route these wires from the driver side to the passenger side in hopes that it'll get the correct voltage and in a sense bypass the right sensor. I've included photos of the part and the wires I'm talking about. Advice?
Last edited by qubickz; 05-06-2016 at 09:15 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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This is really too bad. It's been a great car other than the now seemingly unending top issues. I don't know if this is just a first year 2010 issue or not, but Nissan should be taking some ownership of what's obviously and fundamental design flaw. I'm over 4k in repairs and quite frankly I now cringe every time I put the top down/up for fear of yet another issue copping up. Seems my only recourse it to the sell it while the top it still working correctly.
It's ashamed, cause I love putting the top down and driving what is otherwise a fine car. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Location: Sterling, VA
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It really is depressing.. Nissan is trying to pull that same garbage on me, quoted me 11k to fix it.. The part that went bad is literally a plastic piece with a magnet and two wires... Everything else with the system is fine (hydraulics, wiring, etc)... But this one little piece ON the hydraulic is what is causing the problem.
I'm going to try and cut the wires, and splice into the passenger hydraulic in hopes that the voltage will be enough to bring the top back to normal. Seems pretty silly that the car thinks the top is open because of this sensor yet nissan doesn't think it's a good idea to sell these individual parts? I promise you it's no more than a $50 part. They should be ashamed of themselves. The dealer even had the audacity to tell me that "our techs have families, they need to eat, of course the intense labor is going to run a lot" ....blah blah. You know what I said? It's pretty sad it took NISSAN (apparently) 26 hours to diag a NISSAN car. Wish me luck in my adventure to try and fix this. I refuse to spend thousands on a car I have already spent thousands on... This is my THIRD Z roadster this has happened to. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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This is the part I essentially need to fix...
Rebuild/Upgrade Service for Nissan 370Z Left Tonneau Cylinder - Top Hydraulics, Inc ^^ but it's not a hydraulic issue, it's a sensor issue. I've attached a screenshot of the part that is failing if anyone has any advice. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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#13 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I agree fully with you on Nissan's handling of the top repairs & availability of parts. Last edited by OldGuyFla; 05-07-2016 at 12:59 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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i now have the issue, the roof will open just slightly, the top part opens maybe about 1//4 way open and it just stops, pushing the button will not reverse and try to close back up or open it the rest of the way, no sounds from the motors either, ugh. 45,000 miles, i think its still under warranty.
Last edited by jkatt; 08-30-2016 at 02:50 AM. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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If you are maybe wanting to close it manually go to this link http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2010/RF.pdf and the procedure starts on RF-24. Good luck
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