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If not viewed already, I posted a few pics of the trouble area and fix earlier in this thread. Good luck. Keep us posted on your findings. Thanks.
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#1 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John's Newfoundland
Posts: 14
Drives: 10 370ZRoad Black M6
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
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If not viewed already, I posted a few pics of the trouble area and fix earlier in this thread. Good luck. Keep us posted on your findings. Thanks.
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#2 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mountain Top
Posts: 270
Drives: 370Z Roadster 2010
Rep Power: 209 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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[QUOTE=alcheng;3316273]
To some of you who wants to get rid of that warning light and buzz, here's the solution: open the battery cover under the hood, there's a small fuse box in front of the battery, on the cover there's the diagram telling you which fuse is for which component, there's two fuses for the roof, one is a big one with a 40A and there's another small one in 15A, I remember it's the 2nd one to the right on the top row. You can remove that 15A fuse, the warning light will turn off and no more buzzing, so you can drive in peace. What happens if you remove the 40A "Big" fuse - Obviously the roof will be disabled - Besides that will the roadster function "Normally"? ![]() I already "Pulled" my steering lock fuse and I'm glad I did ![]()
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* ROADSTER * TOURING * 2010 * PLATINUM * GRAPHITE * * Z * NISSAN * 370Z * NISSAN * Z *
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#3 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NB Canada
Posts: 19
Drives: 10 370z roadster
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
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Do you have the old part alcheng? Top Hydraulics has the parts needed to replace this, he has been helping me out, i agree to spread the word! Plus..who wants to pay thousands of $$
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#4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,894
Drives: 2011 ZR PW w/Clutch
Rep Power: 418354 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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I've checked Top Hydraulic too, but they mainly sell/repair the hydraulic motor, the problem on mine was the sensor. they replaced the part#7 in the diagram ![]() Last edited by alcheng; 09-24-2015 at 01:42 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 238
Drives: 2010 MB ZR sport pkg
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
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So, the wiring harness to operate the soft top failed on Thursday. Was driving around with the top down but thankfully it did not rain. Took it to the dealership. After 3 hours of diagnosis, 1 hour to fix the wiring and about $50 for 3 wires and a wiring sleeve the cost was just under $600 CAD. I'm just glad it was a wiring issue and not a cylinder issue.
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#8 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John's Newfoundland
Posts: 14
Drives: 10 370ZRoad Black M6
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
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Ok ... as promised, I have an update on my roof issue. Spent three hours with the local dealer today. They have a knowledgeable tech on the Z34 and knowing how many sensors and other things that can prevent a roof from opening, he was careful not to jump to any premature conclusions. Turns out I had a wire fault in the harness. The prognosis came with two choices, 1) replace the roof or 2) try to isolate the bad wires and effect a repair. I went with 2) despite the risk of not having anything to show after spending a bundle on labour. Good choice ... he found a chaffed pair of wires that were rubbing off the roof frame each time it opened and closed. They were exposed enough to short together from time to time but not consistently. The solution was to add a bit of wire to give the wires some extra slack and then good old tape. Problem solved ... Yay!! Only 3 hours of labour. Also had a clutch switch go this summer ... hopefully things will be better next season!
Anyway ... just spent the last few hours of daylight touring with 23 degree C and a lots of sun! Makes all the problems worth it! |
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#9 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 23
Drives: 370zr 7AT PlatGryMet
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
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Glad to hear they could correct the issue so easily. My dealership was not, and has also concluded the issue is with the wiring harness. They attempted to fix the harness but after a few open and closes same issue resulted. They're now saying I need a new roof because the harness isn't available as a separate part. I've been contact with Nissan over this since the car has less that 30k miles but it out warranty, best I can get it Nissan to pay 50% of the 7K repair price.
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#10 (permalink) | |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John's Newfoundland
Posts: 14
Drives: 10 370ZRoad Black M6
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
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Sorry to hear that. So ... it makes me wonder just what this part is?
Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 23
Drives: 370zr 7AT PlatGryMet
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
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Got the car back, they did install the part mentioned above, though that part is not a complete harness. They found one or more sections of the harness that had chaffed, worn through the insulation and were shorting out and throwing a fault. The repaired those breaks in the harness, re-taped everything out of they way and replaced a couple of other suspect parts. The tech opened and closed 6-7 times successfully. Now I'm at a tipping point, not sure how long the fix will last before it happens again, it cost me about $450 to fix this time, and I'm sure if it happens again they'll be less likely to want to fix it, and will want to install the 7k replacement top.
Seems crazy that they can't install an entirely new, and hopefully improved harness and have to install a 7k part, the rest of the mechanical, hydraulics, etc are fine, so I'd just be throwing them away, or they'd scavenge mine for parts to fix others. So do I sell/trade or see how long it lasts......? |
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#12 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: St John's Newfoundland
Posts: 14
Drives: 10 370ZRoad Black M6
Rep Power: 11 ![]() |
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The tech that repaired mine used standard electrical tape. I was able to add a layer of self 'vulcanizing' tape for extra protection while keeping the area flexible. Keeping my fingers crossed. I'll try to capture a few pics of the area and post later.
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#13 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 8
Drives: 2010 370Z Touring
Rep Power: 12 ![]() |
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Thanks to all for sharing this wealth of information about the convertible top issue. I am also experiencing an intermittent problem with the my 2010 top partially opening or partially closing. It takes multiple attempts to open but fewer attempts to close. I recognize the symptoms in the posts here. It is time to "raise the roof" and take a tour to look for chaffed wires. Thanks for the pictures, detailed descriptions of dealings with dealerships, and the alternative parts source if replacements are needed. Good stuff all y'all!
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#15 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 23
Drives: 370zr 7AT PlatGryMet
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
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My issues went from bad to worse, got it back with the wiring harness repaired, top opened fine, first close and I have a puddle of fluid in the back. Back in the shop and they say it'll cost 6k to repair. Think I'll get them to get the top locked, take it to and independent repair shop and see if I can get it fixed cheaper, then it's getting sold. Too bad, I loved the car up until now.
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