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Originally Posted by SurfDog I consider the Z to be a good car with great potential. My question is what mods MUST be done to fix the factory design defects
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#1 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Drives: 09 370Z Touring/Sprt
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Last edited by Z_ealot; 05-17-2013 at 11:03 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Colorado (9000 feet)
Age: 57
Posts: 1,796
Drives: 09 6mt, 13 Sequoia,
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But.... -failed CSC will ruin your day -failed steering lock will strand you in the rain and ruin your day -non functioning hatch from weak springs will annoy you every time you fail to get your hatch open -no oil cooler will force you into limp mode the minute you try to drive like a sports car (ruin your track day) -no brake cooling will put you into the wall at a track (I didnt include this in my must list but i thought it might come up I LOVE my 370! but it was a Diamond in the rough stock. Turd? okay maybe not, but definitely not what it should be from factory. Sorry if I offended this was meant to be a "make it better thread not a ![]() ![]()
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09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix |
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#3 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 2,045
Drives: 09 370Z Touring/Sprt
Rep Power: 10091 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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no offense taken at all dude, i know the Z from the factory in previous model years hasnt been up to snuff in some departments, but gotta give nissan a tiny bit of credit for addressing at least a few issues although i admit they should have been fixed sooner rather than later. overall though the Z is still an awesome feeling car when driven how its supposed to be and the reason why i picked it again over all the other options that are out there in terms of sport/sporty cars when i decided to order another one after my previous Z went to a better place. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Florida
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Colorado (9000 feet)
Age: 57
Posts: 1,796
Drives: 09 6mt, 13 Sequoia,
Rep Power: 15750 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Okay, I know I promised do abandon this thread (which I'm truly sorry I opened), but this post is just ignorant! The problem is not that I'm too weak to lift the hatch, its that the springs are to weak to pop it open. When you push the button, you have to push the button once to get it "almost popped", then lift it and push the button again to get the hatch up. (this cannot be done with one hand) Some people put pennies in the spring housings to give them enough "oomph" to get over the half sprung position. Some people remove the hatch weight so the springs don't have as much to push. Some ppl, (like me) take the service bullion down to the dealer and ask for the upgraded stronger springs. (and have to pay like 10 bucks ore something for them). These new springs have enough "go" to get the hatch to where one can use one's noodley arms to open the hatch. I may or may not need curls, but you definitely need to understand what your posting about before insulting the OP's level of fitness.
__________________
09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix |
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