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New 370z owner...few questions???

Also, has this forum had a discussion as to which the best method is to fixing this cars issue? 1. Pulling the fuse. 2. Cutting the brown wire. 3. Replacing

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Old 02-26-2013, 06:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Also, has this forum had a discussion as to which the best method is to fixing this cars issue?

1. Pulling the fuse.
2. Cutting the brown wire.
3. Replacing the lock.

I'm fairly anal with regards to my cars, so I will probably end up doing both, just because I know that both are options to fix it. LOL


Last edited by bbowers825; 02-26-2013 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bbowers825 View Post
I did see these threads, and I meant to ask about it but forgot. So when the car is off, the steering wheel locks. When I push the start button, it unlocks. So in theory, I want to pull this fuse WHEN THE CAR IS ON....correct? My logic behind this line of thinking is if I pull the fuse while the car is off, and the steering wheel is LOCKED, it will remain locked, because it cannot send the signal to unlock it without the fuse.
When you pull the fuse, cut the wire, or use the harness, you are killing power to the motor that retracts/extends the lock pin. There is a PCB inside the SLU that handles the lock/unlock signals. This PCB must be present to do some handshaking with the BCM.


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Originally Posted by bbowers825 View Post
I also have a question regarding Nissan's acknowledgement of this issue? I assume that because there are so many people with the issue, and so many write ups on how to fix it, that Nissan doesn't have a factory recall for this issue? Any reason why??
No recall.
Why? $$$


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Originally Posted by bbowers825 View Post
Also, has this forum had a discussion as to which the best method is to fixing this cars issue?
1. Pulling the fuse.
2. Cutting the brown wire.
3. Replacing the lock.
It boils down to personal preference as they all work equally well.

Getting to the IPDM-E/R, where the fuse lives, requires removal of some panels in the engine compartment and removal of the IPDM. An easy job if you have any experience working with cars, but might scare off those without experience. If you want to re-enable the SLU, just put the fuse back in. This is the option I chose.

Cutting the wire is very easy (just requires something to cut the wire), but will be the most difficult to return to factory condition if needed (eg, for resale, gov't inspection, &c). I would consider this a permanent fix with no going back.

The harness extension does exactly what cutting the wire does but it's not permanent. An easy install, but costs $50 + shipping. It has connectors on the "broken" power wire so you can add a switch and enable/disable as you please.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
When you pull the fuse, cut the wire, or use the harness, you are killing power to the motor that retracts/extends the lock pin. There is a PCB inside the SLU that handles the lock/unlock signals. This PCB must be present to do some handshaking with the BCM.



No recall.
Why? $$$



It boils down to personal preference as they all work equally well.

Getting to the IPDM-E/R, where the fuse lives, requires removal of some panels in the engine compartment and removal of the IPDM. An easy job if you have any experience working with cars, but might scare off those without experience. If you want to re-enable the SLU, just put the fuse back in. This is the option I chose.

Cutting the wire is very easy (just requires something to cut the wire), but will be the most difficult to return to factory condition if needed (eg, for resale, gov't inspection, &c). I would consider this a permanent fix with no going back.

The harness extension does exactly what cutting the wire does but it's not permanent. An easy install, but costs $50 + shipping. It has connectors on the "broken" power wire so you can add a switch and enable/disable as you please.
Good info buddy!! I'd rep ya if I could...
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Good info buddy!! I'd rep ya if I could...
Thanks for wanting to rep me, but I'm just here to find out more about my Z. With all the help I've gotten here, I kinda feel obligated to pass some of that on when I can. Reps are nice, but I don't worry about them.

I suppose the best "rep" you could give me is to go Premium and help support this most helpful site.


Edit: There is another option available - one of the members will take your SLU and, if the PCB is working, move it to a plastic box. The motor is deleted and the uswitches bypassed. I have not heard any reports yet of how well it works or fits under the dash.

Yet another edit: Here's a link to the item mentioned in the previous edit - What I did to fix my steering lock failure...
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Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 02-26-2013 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Correct spelling error/typo
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