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Originally Posted by 2xtreme1 Forum decal +25hp Take off spare wheel +2hp Spare will really give 2hp??? It's weight, but not that much weight worth 2hp?
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#7 (permalink) | ||
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A True Z Fanatic
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Ignition Amplifier (2.1 HP*) Grounding Kit (1.5 HP*) Upgrade to Premium Member and install 370Z Forum Decal (5.0 HP**) * your results may vary ** proven only on seat dyno only
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#9 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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strip the car, makin it light can get more gains in speed
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#10 (permalink) | |
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just my opinion though...
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2009 370z Touring 7AT/AAM 2.5 true dual exhaust/AAM DE test pipes/z1 vqde35 headers/AAM cold air intake (R-line)/Motordyne M370/Quaife LSD/z1 brake upgd pkg/Swift Spec-R springs/WhiteLine Front&Rear sway bars with endlinks Last edited by Eighties Meta; 02-02-2013 at 02:54 PM. Reason: mistake |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Get some aggressive gears, it won't add any power but you'll get into the powerband a lot sooner and it will definitely help 1/4 miles. I should note that your HP estimates are a little high. When compounding bolt ons you won't get as much HP typically advertised numbers are compared to stock cars.
Headers, exhaust (true dual), intake, gears, manifold for more mid range grunt and tune. I would guess on a dynojet this puts you somewhere around 320whp which is just about the peak of what you can squeeze out of an NA Z.
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Did someone give the OP a magic ball that will tell him exact hp's he will get with parts? 1+1 does not equal 2 in the mod world. Some mods don't increase power but makes your car faster. 2 piece rotors, light weight forged alloy rims, flywheel, pulley's, they all make power the same way... A diff will put power down better on any road, straight or curved. An M370 intake manifold will not give you a pretty hp number, it doesn't make more than stock. It makes more power under the curve. Stop focusing on a pretty number and focus on the delta. It's the only number that will speak the truth, not some random dyno a manufacturer posted. Shoot for 50whp over your baseline if your looking for a realistic number. If you don't understand, there is a wealth of information on the forums and on the Google...
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#14 (permalink) | |
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#15 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Maybe you don't understand at all. Unless you dyno'd every single part you installed by its self, you will not know what you gained. So your numbers are irrelevant. There is only so much you can do for bolt on power with NA. Every single option has been used and documented here. So explain to me how I don't get it?
If you read everyone's posts, your logic is the butt of jokes. At least a few of us tried to help. I'm all for your motivation to mod, but it would be in your best interest to not insult people who give you accurate advice. You think all those mods and numbers are going to equal a 100+whp improvement? So I say again, 1+1 does not equal 2. And to save yourself some time, nearly all aftermarket exhausts will make similar power as the other. Same for cold air intakes. HFC's come in 200 and 300 CEL count, 200 is less restrictive. PPE and Fast Intentions are the only Long tube headers available. Every shorty header isn't worth it except the Momentum headers. Motordyne intake manifold only gives mid range power with minimal loss up top. No need for ignition amplifier, the car uses direct ignition. No need to grounding kit, you car is new. Pulley's make 5-7whp. And buy yourself an oil cooler. Looking at your previous posts, Whiteline sway bars are preferred over the hotchkis by most, The twin supercharger kit is going to cost you $14,000+ install not including supporting mods. The stock LSD sucks. SS lines, new pads, rotors, and fluid, your brakes will be boss. Unless your building the bottom end and/or getting exhaust cams, there is not much else to know about NA mods. Welcome to the money pit.
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