New 370z owner...few questions???

[bbowers825]

Hey all....purchasing my Z from an auction on Friday...few questions if you all don't mind.

2009 blue 370Z

1. The NISMO has 30 more horses with no mechanical changes. Obviously this is a software/tuning deal. Any way to do a software upgrade? I've read a lot of "my first upgrade threads" and ppl always throw out exhaust, HFCS, headers and intakes but no software upgrades?? So any insight??

2. Anything I should be looking for when I inspect the car on Friday before auction?

Thanks or any/all help!!

-B

[Read T]

The Nismo also has a different X pipe exhaust instead of Y which probably helps add 0.75 donkeypowers

There is tuning software out there for around $500 and up.

Common problems on the earlier models would be steering lock, oil consumption. Besides the other things to look for on a used car. Is this a base, sport, touring.

[6MT]

Hi
1. UpRev
2. Tires..scrubbing might indicate style of driving.

[forza370z]

1. Nismo has a differnt exhaust. The H-pipe instead of the non-nismo y-pipe. And with a factory re-tune it yeilds additional 18 more hp(not 30) over the stock. In general, you don't need a tune until you have done enough breathe mods - Intake + HFC/TP + CBE or more. Coz then you will have to correct your A/F ratio to pull it out of the danger zone and gain some potential hp out of the mods as well. Search for UpRev.

2. Besides others have mentioned, check if there is any aftermarket parts installed on the car, like CAI, CBE, HFC or TP... Those will decrease the car value and you don't want the previous owner messed on the car already. You want a stock car to begin with.

Good luck.

[bbowers825]

Car is a 2009 touring model.

[R0bDC]

09 370Z = Pull the Steering Lock Fuse.

Also Report it (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm) lol before it fails, we already know it will if you don't pull the fuse or cut the brown wired.

[Wonka2581]

First things first PULL YOUR STEERING LOCK FUSE.... then worry about upgrades....

[DEpointfive0]

Originally Posted by R0bDC

09 370Z = Pull the Steering Lock Fuse.

Also Report it (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm) lol before it fails, we already know it will if you don't pull the fuse or cut the brown wired.

Originally Posted by Wonka2581

First things first PULL YOUR STEERING LOCK FUSE.... then worry about upgrades....

You guys took my job...

OP, read the thread in my signature

[axmea?]

Nice color choice. If you can raise the car on a lift or check underneath, look for clutch line leaks if 6MT. I wish I had pix for you but check for lines that go to the tranny. Check for clutch feel, should not be mushy or have shallow engagement.

I'm excited for you because the Z is a fun car to drive and be ready for double takes, thumbs ups, random people taking photos, and guys who want to mess around and try to race you.

[bbowers825]

Originally Posted by R0bDC

09 370Z = Pull the Steering Lock Fuse.

Also Report it (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm) lol before it fails, we already know it will if you don't pull the fuse or cut the brown wired.

Originally Posted by Wonka2581

First things first PULL YOUR STEERING LOCK FUSE.... then worry about upgrades....

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

You guys took my job...

OP, read the thread in my signature

I did see these threads, and I meant to ask about it but forgot. So when the car is off, the steering wheel locks. When I push the start button, it unlocks. So in theory, I want to pull this fuse WHEN THE CAR IS ON....correct? My logic behind this line of thinking is if I pull the fuse while the car is off, and the steering wheel is LOCKED, it will remain locked, because it cannot send the signal to unlock it without the fuse.

I also have a question regarding Nissan's acknowledgement of this issue? I assume that because there are so many people with the issue, and so many write ups on how to fix it, that Nissan doesn't have a factory recall for this issue? Any reason why??

Originally Posted by axmea?

Nice color choice. If you can raise the car on a lift or check underneath, look for clutch line leaks if 6MT. I wish I had pix for you but check for lines that go to the tranny. Check for clutch feel, should not be mushy or have shallow engagement.

I'm excited for you because the Z is a fun car to drive and be ready for double takes, thumbs ups, random people taking photos, and guys who want to mess around and try to race you.

I come from a long line of head turning cars, for good and bad reasons.

My last GTI was a 360hp K04 turbo monster. Built mostly by myself, except for software, and a few odds and ends.
Car before that was an 05 SRT-4 (Neon) with a Stage 3 kit, running roughly 410ish hp.

My hobbie is building cars. Not racing them, not tracking them, in fact, I drive terribly. But my passion is building cars, so I can't wait to get my hands on this 370.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!

[bbowers825]

Also, has this forum had a discussion as to which the best method is to fixing this cars issue?

1. Pulling the fuse.
2. Cutting the brown wire.
3. Replacing the lock.

I'm fairly anal with regards to my cars, so I will probably end up doing both, just because I know that both are options to fix it. LOL

[SouthArk370Z]

Originally Posted by bbowers825

I did see these threads, and I meant to ask about it but forgot. So when the car is off, the steering wheel locks. When I push the start button, it unlocks. So in theory, I want to pull this fuse WHEN THE CAR IS ON....correct? My logic behind this line of thinking is if I pull the fuse while the car is off, and the steering wheel is LOCKED, it will remain locked, because it cannot send the signal to unlock it without the fuse.

When you pull the fuse, cut the wire, or use the harness, you are killing power to the motor that retracts/extends the lock pin. There is a PCB inside the SLU that handles the lock/unlock signals. This PCB must be present to do some handshaking with the BCM.

Originally Posted by bbowers825

I also have a question regarding Nissan's acknowledgement of this issue? I assume that because there are so many people with the issue, and so many write ups on how to fix it, that Nissan doesn't have a factory recall for this issue? Any reason why??

No recall.
Why? $$$

Originally Posted by bbowers825

Also, has this forum had a discussion as to which the best method is to fixing this cars issue?
1. Pulling the fuse.
2. Cutting the brown wire.
3. Replacing the lock.

It boils down to personal preference as they all work equally well.

Getting to the IPDM-E/R, where the fuse lives, requires removal of some panels in the engine compartment and removal of the IPDM. An easy job if you have any experience working with cars, but might scare off those without experience. If you want to re-enable the SLU, just put the fuse back in. This is the option I chose.

Cutting the wire is very easy (just requires something to cut the wire), but will be the most difficult to return to factory condition if needed (eg, for resale, gov't inspection, &c). I would consider this a permanent fix with no going back.

The harness extension does exactly what cutting the wire does but it's not permanent. An easy install, but costs $50 + shipping. It has connectors on the "broken" power wire so you can add a switch and enable/disable as you please.

[bfowlzr33]

Originally Posted by R0bDC

09 370Z = Pull the Steering Lock Fuse.

Also Report it (https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm) lol before it fails, we already know it will if you don't pull the fuse or cut the brown wired.

^^^ do this ASAP before you get stranded somewhere when you have places to be and people to do..

also make sure your gas cap locks when you lock the car. theres a plastic pin that shoots out when you lock it. mine was broke and i didnt even realize it until after i bought the car. just open the lid and lock the car you should see a plastic part come out on the left side.

[bbowers825]

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

When you pull the fuse, cut the wire, or use the harness, you are killing power to the motor that retracts/extends the lock pin. There is a PCB inside the SLU that handles the lock/unlock signals. This PCB must be present to do some handshaking with the BCM.



No recall.
Why? $$$



It boils down to personal preference as they all work equally well.

Getting to the IPDM-E/R, where the fuse lives, requires removal of some panels in the engine compartment and removal of the IPDM. An easy job if you have any experience working with cars, but might scare off those without experience. If you want to re-enable the SLU, just put the fuse back in. This is the option I chose.

Cutting the wire is very easy (just requires something to cut the wire), but will be the most difficult to return to factory condition if needed (eg, for resale, gov't inspection, &c). I would consider this a permanent fix with no going back.

The harness extension does exactly what cutting the wire does but it's not permanent. An easy install, but costs $50 + shipping. It has connectors on the "broken" power wire so you can add a switch and enable/disable as you please.

Good info buddy!! I'd rep ya if I could...

[SouthArk370Z]

Originally Posted by bbowers825

Good info buddy!! I'd rep ya if I could...

Thanks for wanting to rep me, but I'm just here to find out more about my Z. With all the help I've gotten here, I kinda feel obligated to pass some of that on when I can. Reps are nice, but I don't worry about them.

I suppose the best "rep" you could give me is to go Premium and help support this most helpful site.


Edit: There is another option available - one of the members will take your SLU and, if the PCB is working, move it to a plastic box. The motor is deleted and the uswitches bypassed. I have not heard any reports yet of how well it works or fits under the dash.

Yet another edit: Here's a link to the item mentioned in the previous edit - What I did to fix my steering lock failure...