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Don't forget that a block off plate will help if you're worried about too much cooling. I use one in the winter per the wise suggestion of a friend who
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,083
Drives: '14 370Z, '12 4Runr
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Don't forget that a block off plate will help if you're worried about too much cooling. I use one in the winter per the wise suggestion of a friend who did my installation.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,083
Drives: '14 370Z, '12 4Runr
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
"As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps. A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher. Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/feature_stories/1310_engine_oil_temperature/?__federated=1#ixzz358qKNkjn" Lots of info out there. Because it is on the internet, I'm sure it is all correct. |
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