Bad Driving Habits (M/T)

Mai-z

Well I guess I just assumed. Now that I think about it, it's a part of natural wear. This is a question to be asked. Does anyone have info on this?

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|| F.I. 18" CF || A.R.T TP's || Gen3 || EVO-R 3pc CF ||

ZMan8

Im pretty sure any part that goes through a wear and tear process is not covered: tires, wiper blades, clutch, oil, trany fluid, differential fluid, etc) In order for it to be covered under warranty I think you need to prove there was a manufacturing flaw that made it wear out quicker, which in the case of clutch is very hard to prove.

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2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint
2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

Drex

i actually had my wiper blades replaced under warranty at my first oil change. they were streaking, and the service tech said that was a known issue on the factory wiper blades from nissan/infinity, so they replaced them for free.

only now the new ones are streaking again (replaced in Oct last year).

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2011 Nissan 370z | 6MT | Magnetic Black | Sport Package

ZMan8

Well having to replace wiper blades after a few months is abnormal, therefore, covered by warranty. In that situation its easy to prove its a manufacturing defect. Especially since it's hard to accelerate wiper blade wear. Tires and clutch are easy to wear out quick depending on driving habits.

Edit: also if wiper blade is streaking, check to see if you have any minor chips in the windshield.

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2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint
2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

Drex

hmm, i'll check it out thanks

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2011 Nissan 370z | 6MT | Magnetic Black | Sport Package

Nick911sc

It's not covered under warranty, unless I believe that the wear on the clutch is due to a malfunction of another part of the vehicle (clutch not engaging properly, not driver error) But regardless, if/when my clutch burns out... I'll happily put in an aftermarket setup and get rid of this horrid dual mass flywheel setup.

lol1234

I would like to see the source on the whole coasting in neutral is less MPG than leaving it in gear.

I did this in my old 350Z all the time but it didn't have a live MPG computer. My GTO has one and the MPG is much higher when coasting in neutral as opposed to leaving it in gear. I read this thread yesterday and just tested it on my way to work.

lol1234

Coasting in Neutral or Gear to Save Gas - Coasting and Fuel Economy - Popular Mechanics

found a good article on it

I think in my case since the car computes the distance into the live MPG, it makes it seem like I am using less fuel when I am actually using more. At idle the live MPG computer does show I am getting very bad gas mileage.

Jeffblue

how many of you guys just let the car roll around at idle in 1st gear if you need to go very slowly with the clutch fully engaged and your foot not on the gas? some people dont realize, but you can basically just idle and move the car around like you would in an automatic with your foot off the brake.

Gauge

I don't know why I hold the clutch in even while in neutral... Just a bad habit I guess. I like shifting...feels good.

AlphaSnacks

I feel like a lot of people may not necessarily understand the throw out bearing (release bearing for European cars) and why it's bad to ride the clutch or always keep your clutch down at a light and while in gear.

Throwout bearings were commonly weak components on older transmissions, and I'm sure there are still some new cars out there with crappy release bearings. We had an '88 E30 325i project car that my buddies and I stripped. It was a running car with a 2.8L M52B swap from a 528i. I almost never drove the car, but within 4 months my friends managed to kill the clutch...and sure enough it was the throwout bearing, because they thought it was cool to roll up and down on hills, always keeping the car in gear with the clutch down ready for take off. The bearing began to make crazy noises and it had a ton of play when it came time to take the car apart anyway. Granted, they're both 5 years younger than me and this was about 3 years back.

I'd say sometime after the 2000s, it became a much, much smaller concern of worry for the habitual clutch holders as the bearings were manufactured to take more abuse. But older cars are the reason why people still encourage others not to put unnecessary wear on the bearing and not to hold the clutch down excessively - but it still is a part that will wear down with time. After all, when your foot is down on the clutch, the bearing WILL actually spin along with the pressure plate since it is engaging the flywheel, and then the release of your foot will engage the clutch and transfer momentum to the wheels. So why have it spin needlessly for minutes at a light, or while you coast in neutral, etc? Let go of the pedal.

Edit: For the record, I always keep my foot firmly on the brake when in neutral. I don't keep the clutch down with the car in 1st at lights.

mhcoss

I got a question:

For those who can't heel toe (like myself) how do you down shift? If I am braking and down shifting I usually use the clutch to rev match. Is that clutch murder?

alcheng

I think you are saying slowly release the clutch while slowing down at low speed ie approaching traffic lights, right??

mhcoss

Ya basically. Like from 3-2 If I see traffic slowing down and i have to break i'll clutch switch gears and then hold the clutch at friction point untill revs have matched then release

alcheng

As long as you don't hold it at the friction point for too long, it should be fine