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Originally Posted by RiCharlie I can actually hear the engine better which to me would mean a better sports car experience.. I think your report is accurate Charlie. I dynamatted
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#1 (permalink) |
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I think your report is accurate Charlie. I dynamatted my doors and small areas of the hatch last week. Not a considerable difference, but it is noticeably quieter. I can hear my motor and speakers more. I may add more Dynamat along the rear speaker area if I decide to add rear speakers.
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#2 (permalink) |
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OK, so since I had a 350Z, I am well aware of the rear tire noise..So no shock here when the 370Z did the same thing..
The RE050's have 50% tread on them left, so my first thing I will do when they get more worn out, is to Buy some Pilot Super sports.. I want to see what that does before we do any sound deadening..
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#3 (permalink) |
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Dynamat 10455 Xtreme Bulk Pack 9 Sheets by Dynamat is on sale for $139
at Amazon.com and that cover hatch and 2 door and about 4 to 5 hours of work and is not that hard to do and is about 30% to 40% improvement on road noise. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Will that one pack really cover both the hatch and doors? I have seen some dynamat door panel packs. Is there a difference?
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#5 (permalink) |
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yeah the door only need 1 for each door and you have 7 left and i think the door panel is the same and i google it i see they put in Dynamat Xtreme but in little pieces i think hey but they work for me.
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#6 (permalink) |
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I got a Dynamat bulk pack from Amazon. I was able to cover everything in the trunk area and rear wheelwells 100% last night. Nothing left over for the doors so I bought another bulk pack.
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#7 (permalink) |
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I had the cabin floor area done, too, yesterday while they were putting in the remote start kit. In driving around, it seems to have made a small difference, although I could be fooling myself since things are down to the finer shades of gray now. After replacing the tires, doing the sound treatment on the back, doors, and floor, I would rate the soundproofing something like this as to bang for the buck:
1 - Tires 2 - Back (Hatch) Area 3 - Doors 4 - Cabin Floor I also had them raise the back mounts of the passenger seat by 1 inch. They got longer bolts (factory bolts were too short) and fabricated a slightly-sloping spacer to do that. About an inch is the amount of adjustment of the rear knob on the driver's seat, and the seat is more comfortable now. My wife swears it went up by at least a couple of inches - and she is thrilled to now see over the dash! I rather passed off how much it was raised with somethiing like "As long as you're happy...." But that 1 inch did make some significant differences even if some of it is "apparent" to the person involved. I'm quite happy now. The car is reasonably quiet, we can carry on conversations, and my wife (and I as well when I sit in that seat) is happy in the comfort and improved view of the passenger seat. The remote starting (something I've had on many cars) is great as always. Love the car, and it's really fun to drive - which was the whole idea. Last edited by troubadour; 05-02-2012 at 01:13 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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![]() I have thought about this for a while now, and I'm very interested in exactly what they did. Perhaps you could start a new thread (to not derail this one), and post up some pictures. With the limited seat adjustment, I have to assume others would be interested too. Please, more info...... ![]()
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#9 (permalink) | |
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I'm too new to this forum to know how to redirect readers to a different thread on this topic, but I'll post a response here and if someone moves it over so that I can follow I'll try to keep up - - -
= = = = = Here's what happened. I noted the adjustment for the driver's side, and did a rough eyeball estimate that it moved the back of the seat bottom up and down about an inch or so, total. I also noted that the passenger seat was pretty sloped and since it had no adjustment I discussed it with the installers. Things we discussed were that if the back were raised, the factory mounting bolts might not be long enough (which proved to be the case), and that they were probably hardened bolts. The installer also thought that the upwards tilting of the back might put some stress on the front bolts so he theorized adding a very small slanted spacer in the front. Initially I had studied the room between the cabin roof and the passenger seatback/headrest, since the bottom of the seat wasn't being raised relative to the seatback but rather the whole seat would be raised in the rear - seatback and all. It appeared that there were easily a few inches of headroom with no adverse affects for a 1 inch rise. Someone who is really tall might reconsider that but for most people I figured it wouldn't be a problem. My wife had said when she sat in the driver's seat (which I leave permanently raised all the way in the back) if felt more comfortable. So I figured one inch would be a good matching target amount for the passenger seat. You could probably go some more if you wanted. In the end it turned out to be really simple as they only had to do two things: 1 - Add two aluminum spacers of 1 inch with a very slight cant on them (to account for the sloping angle) at the back of the seat rails. 2 - Replace the factory bolts at the rear with 2 longer hardened bolts, which they easily obtained from a local nut/bolt specialty shop. They also selected a suitable washer for each of the new bolts. (I told them not to worry about the little plastic cap that covered the original bolts as they were out of sight anyway.) The installer told me that when he looked at the front of the track mounts, there was a slight slant already there and thus he saw no reason to have to do anything with the front mounts. The whole thing amounted to about a half-hour of labor, throwing some black paint on two slightly canted 1-inch aluminum spacing pieces (from square aluminum pipe or tubing - I just glanced at them and didn't ask what he used - you could probably use regular pipe for that matter), and bolting the seat rails back in with the two longer bolts in the rear. We just downsized to a condo and I don't have a workshop any more so I just had them do it for me, but it'd really be an easy DIY job. My wife loves it. Suddenly the whole ride was improved in her mind - especially the view since she is short. The seat is more comfortable at this angle for me, too. Last edited by troubadour; 05-03-2012 at 12:52 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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To start a thread, just go to the main forum listings, go down under Interior/Exterior Mods, click on that, then go all the way to the bottom and click New Thread. I have to say, I think your guy who made the spacers might be able to make some coin by selling kits with 2 spacers and 2 bolts. I know I would buy one if the price was right. I have not only been considering this for the passenger, but also the driver seat. I had all your same reservations, but came to the conclusion that for me the spacer was the only hard part. It's hard to see in your picture exactly what it looks like. To me, that's the key. The bolts I can get easy. Thanks for this info. Let me know if you need any more help, and if you see your installer guy, could you ask him if he could make 2 more sets for me? ![]() ![]()
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Must have been a LOOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGGG time ago kenchen, because crap, I'm old, and I've never seen it. You must be archaic?? 16,000+ posts means OLD or SUPER GEEK, for sure.
![]() ![]() Can you find it for us, you old super geek one you? ![]()
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Finally Able To Order 2012 Model 8/24/2011 Delivered Tuesday November 15, 9:57 am!!! 2012, Auto, White, Sport, Kick Plates |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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![]() here you go.. DIY: How to raise your factory seat to improve visibility i got tired of sending PM's... and trying to remember what i did. ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) |
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I just edited the post and added the text below to item #2 near the end - I had forgotten this one minor detail:
"They also selected a suitable washer for each of the new bolts. (I told them not to worry about the little plastic cap that covered the original bolts as they were out of sight anyway.)" You can see the washer underneath the bolt head in the picture. - - - - - - - - - - - - - The "spacer" is just a piece of squared aluminum stock, slightly tapered on one cut end to take in the angle off the cabin floor. A piece of pipe would also work, utilizing the same kind of taper, etc. |
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