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how many miles for the 1st oil change?

Are you saying after the 1200 mile break in period, change the factory oil with regular oil, then after when it hits is 3750 mile mark change it to royal

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Old 01-19-2009, 02:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Are you saying after the 1200 mile break in period, change the factory oil with regular oil, then after when it hits is 3750 mile mark change it to royal blue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dad View Post
I'm against changing to synthetic so soon. Reason being that the regular oil will help get everything worn and seated quicker than synthetic will. Regular oil is better for the break-in period.
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Old 01-19-2009, 03:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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^^^ LOL! You need to join a car club, man! You got a lot of questions that could simply be answered by hanging out with experienced car guys!

Synthetic Oil life is about 5K-6K miles. On some cars it's closer to 10K. If you race a lot, then you should change it every 1K miles although I know a lot of people that go until 3K. However, even light street racing wouldn't constitute changing it that early. People who run their cars at the track, hot lap, and/or frequent 120+MPH should change their oil often.

I used to race a STOCK LS1 car and won against many modded cars because I replaced the oil after EVERY night of racing. There is a method to the madness.
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Based on the responses, I will probably change my original plan. Seems like the consensus is to keep the factory oil until 1250, then change it at 3750, and then use synthetic oil after that.
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:32 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid View Post
Are you saying after the 1200 mile break in period, change the factory oil with regular oil, then after when it hits is 3750 mile mark change it to royal blue?

Royal Purple
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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royal purple is possibly the worst 'full' synthetic made
its not even a full synthetic...only partial http://www.comprevac.com/products/su...ossref6_03.pdf

its flash point is absolutely terrible compare to other higher priced oils
if you drive your car hard your oil will become nearly water, trust me ive raced road courses for a couple years and used it a few times

Quote from Aaron Lail of Tru dyno spots
"I had some independant tests ran on RP, Mobile 1, and Castrol syntec.

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil! Mobile 1 and syntec came in very close to each other.

I once had a small 4cyl turbo engine running Mobile 1 that had the drain plug come out going down the road somewhere. The engine oil light came on, pulled over to check and it was completely out of oil! Put a new plug in with 4 more quarts of Mobile 1 and never had another problem. That engine is still running today! "



Redline is a good oil
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.

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Old 01-19-2009, 12:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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How about Motul? Anyone have any experience with them?

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Old 01-19-2009, 12:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cown3d View Post
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.
Interesting... I didn't know about those. +1 Rep
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cown3d View Post

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil!
Can you define that?
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:51 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad View Post
Can you define that?
define? as in specify?
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:52 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cown3d View Post
royal purple is possibly the worst 'full' synthetic made
its not even a full synthetic...only partial http://www.comprevac.com/products/su...ossref6_03.pdf

its flash point is absolutely terrible compare to other higher priced oils
if you drive your car hard your oil will become nearly water, trust me ive raced road courses for a couple years and used it a few times

Quote from Aaron Lail of Tru dyno spots
"I had some independant tests ran on RP, Mobile 1, and Castrol syntec.

RP was the worst and actually had microscopic metal contaminents from brand new oil! Mobile 1 and syntec came in very close to each other.

I once had a small 4cyl turbo engine running Mobile 1 that had the drain plug come out going down the road somewhere. The engine oil light came on, pulled over to check and it was completely out of oil! Put a new plug in with 4 more quarts of Mobile 1 and never had another problem. That engine is still running today! "



Redline is a good oil
But Eneos, amsoil, and motul are the best you can buy
Enoes---->the oil is polarized which adheres to metal engine components under weight transfer conditions.
quoted because it doesnt need to be at the bottom of the page
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:24 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I was wondering about Eneos as well. Never heard of them, and I didn't know Motul made engine oil either.
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvfreakazoid View Post
So you don't have to do oil changes every 3k miles anymore on this car?
5K miles with synthetic is a safe interval for daily driving, but can likely go longer. You can get an oil analysis to see how long the oil will properly perform. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:50 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
How about Motul? Anyone have any experience with them?

On the 350Z, I've used primarily Motul and Mobil1, but from the oil analysis threads on my350Z, Motul is not a very good oil, well at least for the VQ.
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Old 01-19-2009, 03:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cown3d View Post
define? as in specify?
had microscopic metal contaminents < what are they talking about?
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