High Mileage 370z Reliable?

KMO-II

Im at 117,000 miles on my 2014 NISMO..Bought it brand new with 1/10 of a mile on it...... No problems at all.

EZT

231k miles on my 2009. Little to no maintenance issues over the course of owning it since 2011. I stay on top of regular maintenance schedule so nothing really to note that others haven’t touched on.

vtec to vvel

Go Gators!

__________________
Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

Will 370Z

I’ve been impressed with what I’ve read/seen about higher mileage Zs. I was a bit hesitant when I picked up my 2014 with just under 80K as it was the highest mileage vehicle I’ve ever purchased. It was a good price though and after reading a bit and seeing tuned/modded Zs at over 130K still ripping, I feel like I bought a low mileage one lol

Carfax showed that it had been well maintained with regular scheduled maintenance done. I took it to another Nissan dealership for an oil change and everything checked out okay. I don’t plan on going FI, just FBO, but I feel confident that I can do those mods and still enjoy it for another 40K miles or even more!

vtec to vvel

You really can't go wrong with most Japanese cars, and their engines are typically solid and require only basic maintenance.

There are modded members here with over 300k miles FWIW

__________________
Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

arvind_korha

my 09 Z has 170,000kms/105,000miles still going strong no problems

filip00

I'm not kidding when I say I literally threw it away after installing a mechanical one.
The problem is that it's viscous, which means that it works on the basis of having fluid pressure build-up between the clutch plates. That means that while it's cold and you barely just started driving - it will grab nicely, because the oil in the diff is thick and cold. Once it gets hot (actual operating temperature), it will start to lose grip. For example, you try to do a donut, and the car will randomly keep spinning both wheels for a second or two, then the outside wheel will lose all power and grab on, while the inner wheel will start spinning like crazy.
And don't think it applies only to silly donuts in the parking lot. A completely usual track day, not pushing the car to its limits, but going on a tight hairpin corner, if you have grippy tires, the inner wheel lifts and you do a one wheel burnout. It's just AWFUL.

So to be honest, I'd look for the sport package maybe because of the wheels...maybe brakes....maybe even the S-mode (the synchro-shift for manual gearbox), not sure if the base model gets it....those are great features. But the LSD is ****. Forget about the stock LSD being good, because even if you're not that demanding a driver, if you feel like you need the LSD in the car, then you'll want this visco-**** out of it. Trust me.

370zNRG

Ok interesting I did own a 2011 370z sport before and I did noticed when drifting and hooning in the parking lot it was really snappy at times wonder if that was the diff now. I did just watch a smoking tire episode and they mentioned the diff problem about it randomly locking. Ya I’ll definitely take that into consideration as a start pushing the car more. I also didn’t know that the S mode was only in the sport I thought it was standard in every Z. Appreciate the input helps with which model to buy thanks. Probably will go with the sports model and upgrade the rear end later. Does changing to a thicker rear end fluid do anything has anyone tried that?

2011 Nismo#91

Nope that fluid in the VLSD is just the gear oil. the VLSD is a sealed unit and you can't access/change the fluid.

If they are well maintained older high mileage Zs are a fine car, as would be any car. Only 2 things to watch out for is if it's a manual has the CSC been replaced with a Zspeed CSC elimination kit and on all models has the steering wheel lock fuse been pulled.

__________________
GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

370zNRG

Ok ya I’ll have to look into the CSC elimination kit not formilar with that. Ya the wheel lock I’ve heard that I owned my last Z for two years never had a issue with the steering wheel locking I wonder if the previous owner removed the fuse never new about the problem till recently.

Tractionless

Plastic fuel pump hats break, CV axles click, pre 2014 galley gaskets prone to failure, plastic mender in heater core hose breaks, rear end mount fails, ........

__________________
Toys Not Tots

2011 Nismo#91

Those are the most common very rare failures. Most people have not changed any of that stuff and are running fine and will continue on. You can also add the 5th gear syncro is weak but its not common that people are replacing their manual trans out. Most people don't notice their diff mount is leaking till their upgrading it.

__________________
GTR TT 493Whp/431lbft, Ecutek, Southbend 6puck,Quaife, RPM RollBar 4Point, R888R, JRZ RSPro F(10R/10C) R(10R/6C) 1000f500r inlbs+150inlbs Tender, SPL everywhere.Full Specs

filip00

If the previous owner had replaced the lock mechanism, then there was no need to pull the fuse out. As far as I know, from year 2011 (??) onwards, the Z doesn't come with that wheel lock issue anymore.

Regarding CSC - the cylinder fails and the problem is that to replace it, you need to take out the transmission. If you take the Z1 kit, you can do it without removing the transmission.

370zNRG

Ya ok not sure but never had a problem wonder if he did fix it. Either way the new car I get I’ll just pull the fuse. Oh ok so the slave cylinder is on the outside of the transmission?

vtec to vvel

It's inside the housing bell of the tranny.

FWIW, alot of members have had issues with the Z1 kit, and will recommend ZSpeed.

__________________
Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t