Rag, duct tape, and a pipe wrench. No problem.

Exactly. It can be pretty intimidating for someone that hasn't done it before though if it's really loctited on like my 2017 was.

Some have a drop on them, others have a gallon. The guy installing the knobs must be bi-polar. The amount used - equals his moods. :icon14:

Yep. My 2014 came off by hand. My 2017 I literally needed a 3' pipe wrench.

LMAO, I got the guy that use a gallon of locktite. I did the rag ducktape and rubber strap wrench and finally got it of with a pipe wrench an through the knob in the trash. I was f-ing hot when I finally got it off.:shakes head:

Same guy did mine. I had planed on keeping the stock knob but it was beyond trashed by the time I got it off.

Mine had a gallon on as well. To not damage it, I did the following.

Wrap the knob with electrical tape first. I used about half a roll. This will not leave much residue and gives a little absorption from twisting. Then I used gaff tape to wrap around the e tape. This allows for better grip of the pipe wrench. Pipe wrench with longer metal pole for better torque and the knob popped off after a few moments.

Z1 High Flow Cats installed. Barely noticed a sound difference and the car still feels good. I just need to drive it around to burn off that new exhaust/cat smell.

LOL, i got a P2A03 code on my way to dinner tonight. All after I drove the car all day yesterday.

I cleared it.. picked up the dinner, and the light didn't come back omw home. Idk if the sensors were left on with ECUtek or what.. We did discuss the wiring for the harnesses as it was a tad tight with the J bung. I'll have to check and see if the cabling is loose.

Bought an Invidia Gemini catback exhaust about 3 weeks ago and, after some delays waiting for missing parts of it to arrive, finally got it installed on Saturday. Paid to have it done because Winter decided to return with cold rain and snow. I know a lot of people say it's not loud enough but it's perfect for me. Got the rolled steel tips so that it will still look factory original (unless you know what you're looking at); need to play with the tip placement a little.

Turns out I got the CEL again. This time i READ it. Sensor 1 in both banks, meaning I'll have to call WR and have them clean/replace them since they were fine before they replaced the cats.

Did you use an impact gun to remove the bolts to change the cats? Did you do this with the O2 sensors still installed?

I didn't remove anything. I'm sure they used an impact to remove my test pipes, but these are the primary sensors in the headers, not the secondary ones in the tp/cats.

I did hear what sounded like some cleaning going on (likely the surface where the new equipment connects to the OEM header. Now whether they left those primary sensors on while they did that or not, I don't know. Either way they'll have to foot the bill.

Chances are that the O2 sensors are shot. A lot of times when someone works on the exhaust with an impact gun. About 80% of the time. The O2 sensors get damaged. The vibrations from the gun kills the sensors. For some reason the sensors on the Z are more sensitive to vibrations then others.

Good to know, thanks for the heads up!

Well here's to hoping they'll replace them for me without too much fuss. (thankfully I have a daily)

Not wanting to cast aspersions on the OP.. but THAT is one of 300 reasons why I don't take anything I care about to a shop if I can help it. And why I went and learned all this automotive mishigash. No one will take as much care with your car as you will. You're the only one that's doing it for free.

Good Luck with this, hope it works out. Keep us in the loop! :tup:

I talked to them today and they're convinced nothing they did (including the cleaning) would have done anything to the primary and they're saying it's a calibration issue (which no, it's pre-cat and even if there are adjustments, the car should be able to make them. plenty of cars running around here with aftermarket cats and TPs and not getting codes for the primary sensors.)

They were willing to take a look and "troubleshoot the problem" but that's where I was like no thanks. I'm not gonna get charged hourly for troubleshooting when I quite blatantly tell you there's no correlation between the front and rear O2s because the secondary sensors are disabled. I'll eventually get some new o2 Sensors (123K miles maybe it's a good idea) and I'll eventually install them. I don't need the car right now.




This is Winding Road Racing. The assumption was that they should know what they are doing, and I'll take my car to the shop based on whether it's worth my time doing it or me paying someone else to do that. Respectfully, not everyone has the ability to always do everything to the car themselves.


I should put a disclaimer saying that the previous work they did was all fine. (rescuing my Z and putting a new clutch/flywheel/cmak and repairing transmission as well as corner balancing). They're by no means a Z specialty so I have to err more to my own judgment on Z specific issues.

Very true! Always a question of time and priorities. Point I was trying to make was, two and a half years ago I was a keyboard jockey with a screwdriver, half a dozen sockets, and trouble with the concept of lefty-loosey rightie-tightie.

Now, with the invaluable help of this forum (and 1,700 hours of overtime pay) I have the tools and talent to do most things. Doesn't mean that's the path for everyone. Just want ppl to know its achievable.

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And here's an image for anyone who's not familiar by now. We're talking about the sensor right near the neck of where the header meets the cat.

https://imgur.com/SxpnqCMl.jpg

Installed AAM Resonated Short Tails a couple weeks ago, still trying to find the rattle noise. Going to take off some body panels this weekend....ugh.

Bought a pair of illuminated kickplates from a member and since all the other interior trim pieces in my car are black, I had the silver section wrapped in matte black. :rolleyes:

Honestly, today I looked at my car parked in the garage and shed a tear because there is about 3-4 more months of harsh, cold, winter, here in Winnipeg, Canada. This means I still have 3-4 months before I can drive her. On Christmas day however, I installed a EVO-R CF steering wheel so that tied me over until I can drive it... :crying:

Painted my engine cover......:rolleyes:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4cfa6030_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...daa3ee4a_c.jpg

What was your method and what product(s) did you use?

I 1500 grit sanded the gray areas with a little flat sanding block paying close attention not to hit the black part of the cover with the sandpaper. Washed the 2 pieces off really well with Dawn dishsoap afterwards and dried the pieces thoroughly. Painter taped the black areas, leaving the gray areas exposed of course. This was time consuming because there is a little valley between the gray and black areas that was a pain to tape off correctly. Making the radius on the corners was tricky too.

Then the REAL competency of my artistic ability showed up...........I ghetto painted the gray areas with red KRYLON:eek: paint and slopped about 50 coats of clear over that to finish the job! :facepalm: I and the wife were impressed with how it came out. LOL:driving:

BTW, you can clean the black surface where any overspray may seep through with some NON-ACETONE cleaner and make small work of cleaning the overspray off wherever you need to.

After the installation of my CJM Fuel Pressure Gauge, I am wondering whether I needed to remove so many parts :icon14:

ALL that for a fuel pressure gauge????? DAFUQ?????:eek:

He takes things apart, and never puts it back together. :shakes head:

Nah. It’s all removed in preparation for the installation of new oil pump gears. They are currently in QC and should be ready soon.

You're not wrong lol

Thanks for the breakdown. I have just added a new project to the Z!

Diff cover is in and everything re-installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...93fe2d6b5a.jpg

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https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...164e88b8_c.jpg

billet oil cap......+25 RWHP:eekdance:

Hey knuckle dragger. How high up does those jacks go up?

21". Add another 4" or so for the lift blocks. Had to lower it to the lower setting when using a regular low-profile floor jack to get the diff out. And even then, had to put the jack on some 2x4s and put a hockey puck on the pad.

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:tiphat:

Nice! Digging those jacks too!

Nothing
 

Procrastinating

Never seen anything like that. Are they hydraulic or air?