swift spec r spring

Zipper 104 · 04-01-2015, 12:56 AM

I understand where you're coming from. I just went through all this and despite all the DIYs and information on this site I had to piece all of it together to sort it all out to my satisfaction.

Here's what I did, or will be doing now after the fact;

1) Swift Spec-Rs

2) Rear camber arms ( I used SPL...these are adjustable; the stock arms only have a small range of adjustment using an eccentric bolt on the inboard end)

3) Toe bolts (SPC...to replace the stock bolts in conjunction with elongating the stock holes to extend the adjustment range in order to bring the toe back into spec once the camber has been brought back to spec...moving the camber messes with the toe)

4) Lock out bolts (SPL....to replace the stock eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the camber arms so they won't slip and mess up your camber; all the camber adjustment will be done on the arms alone)

Now what I haven't done;

Front Upper arms (to allow camber adjustment on the front end)

NOTE;

A lot of folks here have chosen to not do camber arms on the rear, nor toe bolts, nor lockouts, nor front upper arms, or did, or didn't do a combination of them. If you read through all the Swift related threads you will no doubt hear a lot of different opinions and reasons why people chose to do what they did. I make no judgements.
I did (or will be doing) what I did from the conclusions I arrived at reading all the stuff I was able to find. Like you, I wish I had been able to find it all in one spot.
Some folks were able to get their camber and toe settings after installing Swifts to a point they were happy without the extra expense. There are others here who chose to go all in and have their reasons. I did my Swift install initially without using lockouts nor did I install the toe bolts or elongate the holes. (even though I had the toe bolts in hand)
I am doing that now after the fact. I am not doing the front upper arms because the concensus here seems to be that almost everyone saw spec numbers without doing the front arms. (the front upper arms are mucho $$$, IMO, but I haven't completely ruled out doing them down the road)

Hopefully, others will chime in here on top of what I've said.
I hope I've helped a bit here. It all makes a heck of a lot more sense once you're gotten yourself under the car to see what's going on there.

104

onzedge · 04-01-2015, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zipper 104

I understand where you're coming from. I just went through all this and despite all the DIYs and information on this site I had to piece all of it together to sort it all out to my satisfaction.

Here's what I did, or will be doing now after the fact;

1) Swift Spec-Rs

2) Rear camber arms ( I used SPL...these are adjustable; the stock arms only have a small range of adjustment using an eccentric bolt on the inboard end)

3) Toe bolts (SPC...to replace the stock bolts in conjunction with elongating the stock holes to extend the adjustment range in order to bring the toe back into spec once the camber has been brought back to spec...moving the camber messes with the toe)

4) Lock out bolts (SPL....to replace the stock eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the camber arms so they won't slip and mess up your camber; all the camber adjustment will be done on the arms alone)

Now what I haven't done;

Front Upper arms (to allow camber adjustment on the front end)

NOTE;

A lot of folks here have chosen to not do camber arms on the rear, nor toe bolts, nor lockouts, nor front upper arms, or did, or didn't do a combination of them. If you read through all the Swift related threads you will no doubt hear a lot of different opinions and reasons why people chose to do what they did. I make no judgements.
I did (or will be doing) what I did from the conclusions I arrived at reading all the stuff I was able to find. Like you, I wish I had been able to find it all in one spot.
Some folks were able to get their camber and toe settings after installing Swifts to a point they were happy without the extra expense. There are others here who chose to go all in and have their reasons. I did my Swift install initially without using lockouts nor did I install the toe bolts or elongate the holes. (even though I had the toe bolts in hand)
I am doing that now after the fact. I am not doing the front upper arms because the concensus here seems to be that almost everyone saw spec numbers without doing the front arms. (the front upper arms are mucho $$$, IMO, but I haven't completely ruled out doing them down the road)

Hopefully, others will chime in here on top of what I've said.
I hope I've helped a bit here. It all makes a heck of a lot more sense once you're gotten yourself under the car to see what's going on there.

104

littlejuanito · 04-01-2015, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zipper 104

the front upper arms are mucho $$$, IMO.

The expensive price for just front upper arms ($700+) it's what has kept me from not upgrading my springs yet... and perhaps wont be doing it at all.

onzedge · 04-01-2015, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by littlejuanito

The expensive price for just front upper arms ($700+) it's what has kept me from not upgrading my springs yet... and perhaps wont be doing it at all.

My front end alignment is within specification without aftermarket arms. I am on Swift Spec-R springs plus Koni Yellows.

Corona · 04-03-2015, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by littlejuanito

The expensive price for just front upper arms ($700+) it's what has kept me from not upgrading my springs yet... and perhaps wont be doing it at all.

I am within factory spec and no fancy upper arms. Im on swifts and let them settle for 500 miles before this alignment.

onzedge · 12-04-2015, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corona

I am within factory spec and no fancy upper arms. Im on swifts and let them settle for 500 miles before this alignment.

That Pale Guy · 04-01-2015, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zipper 104

I understand where you're coming from. I just went through all this and despite all the DIYs and information on this site I had to piece all of it together to sort it all out to my satisfaction.

Here's what I did, or will be doing now after the fact;

1) Swift Spec-Rs

2) Rear camber arms ( I used SPL...these are adjustable; the stock arms only have a small range of adjustment using an eccentric bolt on the inboard end)

3) Toe bolts (SPC...to replace the stock bolts in conjunction with elongating the stock holes to extend the adjustment range in order to bring the toe back into spec once the camber has been brought back to spec...moving the camber messes with the toe)

4) Lock out bolts (SPL....to replace the stock eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the camber arms so they won't slip and mess up your camber; all the camber adjustment will be done on the arms alone)

Now what I haven't done;

Front Upper arms (to allow camber adjustment on the front end)

NOTE;

A lot of folks here have chosen to not do camber arms on the rear, nor toe bolts, nor lockouts, nor front upper arms, or did, or didn't do a combination of them. If you read through all the Swift related threads you will no doubt hear a lot of different opinions and reasons why people chose to do what they did. I make no judgements.
I did (or will be doing) what I did from the conclusions I arrived at reading all the stuff I was able to find. Like you, I wish I had been able to find it all in one spot.
Some folks were able to get their camber and toe settings after installing Swifts to a point they were happy without the extra expense. There are others here who chose to go all in and have their reasons. I did my Swift install initially without using lockouts nor did I install the toe bolts or elongate the holes. (even though I had the toe bolts in hand)
I am doing that now after the fact. I am not doing the front upper arms because the concensus here seems to be that almost everyone saw spec numbers without doing the front arms. (the front upper arms are mucho $$$, IMO, but I haven't completely ruled out doing them down the road)

Hopefully, others will chime in here on top of what I've said.
I hope I've helped a bit here. It all makes a heck of a lot more sense once you're gotten yourself under the car to see what's going on there.

104

So I can just buy the springs off of Amazon, take it to a shop for install and call it a day? I'm assuming the extra things that you are buying are to refine the way it looks and/or feels?

Zipper 104 · 04-01-2015, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by That Pale Guy

So I can just buy the springs off of Amazon, take it to a shop for install and call it a day? I'm assuming the extra things that you are buying are to refine the way it looks and/or feels?

Well, this is why I attempted to 'qualify' what I put in my response to the OP.
It's not for me to tell you what you need, or not need to buy. It's up to you to read through all the related threads like I did to arrive at your own conclusion as to what you ought to do. I did what I did because I felt the extra expense was worth it to me to cover the 'grey' areas. That is, I wanted to make sure I could get the rear camber well in the spec range and have the ability to get the toe back to where it needs to be. There are any number of folks who are quite happy to run numbers that myself (or others) might not feel comfortable with. I wanted to make sure I installed what it would take to hit the numbers I decided I wanted. Tires are expensive enough without having to buy them sooner than I need to. (OTOH, I will be glad to get the stock 050As off.... I just don't really want to do it any sooner than I have to)
What I hope I posted was a somewhat complete list of what my research told ME is needed to make me happy. Some will agree with me, others not. The OP just wanted a somewhat comprehensive list of what he might want to do.
When I went to determine what I would need it took a lot of homework and I couldn't find it all in one place. I was just attempting to save him from a bit of that. I hope I did that. In the event my list is not complete I hoped others would pile on and correct me.

104

wanker · 04-01-2015, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by That Pale Guy

So I can just buy the springs off of Amazon, take it to a shop for install and call it a day? I'm assuming the extra things that you are buying are to refine the way it looks and/or feels?

Only is you don't mind replacing your rear tires every six months. You will need adjustable rear camber arms... search the forum. It's all there.

04-01-2015, 12:56 AM	#1 (permalink)
Zipper 104 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Canada's Wet Coast Posts: 480 Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT Rep Power: 13	I understand completely... I understand where you're coming from. I just went through all this and despite all the DIYs and information on this site I had to piece all of it together to sort it all out to my satisfaction. Here's what I did, or will be doing now after the fact; 1) Swift Spec-Rs 2) Rear camber arms ( I used SPL...these are adjustable; the stock arms only have a small range of adjustment using an eccentric bolt on the inboard end) 3) Toe bolts (SPC...to replace the stock bolts in conjunction with elongating the stock holes to extend the adjustment range in order to bring the toe back into spec once the camber has been brought back to spec...moving the camber messes with the toe) 4) Lock out bolts (SPL....to replace the stock eccentric bolts on the inboard end of the camber arms so they won't slip and mess up your camber; all the camber adjustment will be done on the arms alone) Now what I haven't done; Front Upper arms (to allow camber adjustment on the front end) NOTE; A lot of folks here have chosen to not do camber arms on the rear, nor toe bolts, nor lockouts, nor front upper arms, or did, or didn't do a combination of them. If you read through all the Swift related threads you will no doubt hear a lot of different opinions and reasons why people chose to do what they did. I make no judgements. I did (or will be doing) what I did from the conclusions I arrived at reading all the stuff I was able to find. Like you, I wish I had been able to find it all in one spot. Some folks were able to get their camber and toe settings after installing Swifts to a point they were happy without the extra expense. There are others here who chose to go all in and have their reasons. I did my Swift install initially without using lockouts nor did I install the toe bolts or elongate the holes. (even though I had the toe bolts in hand) I am doing that now after the fact. I am not doing the front upper arms because the concensus here seems to be that almost everyone saw spec numbers without doing the front arms. (the front upper arms are mucho $$$, IMO, but I haven't completely ruled out doing them down the road) Hopefully, others will chime in here on top of what I've said. I hope I've helped a bit here. It all makes a heck of a lot more sense once you're gotten yourself under the car to see what's going on there. 104 Merv likes this. Last edited by Zipper 104; 04-01-2015 at 12:58 AM. Reason: edit

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