USAA ftw :tup:

Lowering payments by extending the loan 1+ years. You are letting the lender take your future income for free and they don't even have to lift a finger.

Don't ever, ever do this unless you're going to like...lose your car.

I will hold onto this insurance like grim motherf'ing death. They are amazing. They pre-negotiate my car buying prices, help me haggle my loan rates, provide me with credit when I need it and do pretty much anything else I've ever wanted. I mean, I understand that the car buying program is really for military wives whose husbands are deployed but walking into a dealership with a pre-guaranteed price after you've done your research is a really nasty trump card.

They tried to give me a boat loan a while back even though I didn't ask for it o_O

I'm also looking at refinancing the Z. I paid off half the car in a year..

I started with a 72monrh loan...just hit 60months left. I found that if I refinance now for 60 months..technically the same amount.of payments it will cut my interest in half and save me like $3000


The 135i I could probably have for 28k out the door before tradin. About 13k after

But if you're talking about turboing it, which... arent they Already turbo'd?!? :confused:

All that R&D you'll need to re-do = $$$$

Seconded.

But you're not saving anything. Since you've put extra money into your payments you'll pay the car off early. If you refinance they'll spread that money and associated interest over 5-6 years. You're forgetting the potential interest you're going to pay. They want you to keep making payments because interest is free money for lenders.

I may still do the z. It has less miles and is newer. The nice thing is if I do go to BMW the injectors, furl pump, turbo, waste gates, bovs can all be moved over without headache

Idk i really want a turbo Z haha but stock turbo cars are sooooooo much easier.

This decision is giving me heartburn haha

Well half of that was my down payment sorry. I only paid a quarter off...forgot about that. Buy no with how it is now it will save me money. Already talked with my bank about it and ran the numbers. It will end up being less.

The ONLY way you'll end up paying less in the long run is if you get a lower rate over the same period of time. If that's not the case, you're getting scammed.
Tell you what, run the numbers yourself:

1) Take your original loan with original payment amount and run it for the course of the lien - pay special attention to the time it takes to pay it off. Now add up the interest payments you're making vs principle.

2) Now take the re-fi lower payment and run it for the course of the lien and do the interest vs principle thing again.

I would be shocked if 2) was less than 1)

****DO NOT FORGET THE MONEY YOU HAVE ALREADY PAID INTO YOUR ORIGINAL LOAN (excluding down payment)***
If you really want to save yourself money, make extra car payments and pay it off early.

OK.

Car/boat/RV refis are a racket and you will end up getting boned. I'm not trying to be a killjoy but do your research without the bank's input. If it makes sense to you, by all means.

Just trying to help :/

DM, have you made any progress on your board for your cars stats... I've never done a judged show before, so I dunno what is/is not required, or what I should do about that?

I mean think about home refis. You do it because A) you get a better interest rate at the cost of a longer loan term B) You're going to lose your home and are willing to take a long-term loss to save your investment or C) You need to free up equity.

Now think about this in terms of a vehicle. The bank will tell you they get nothing out of it but how does that make sense?

I said it a month ago and I'll say it again. I'm pretty sure DM has this shoe in the bag. Last year there was only 1 Z entry and he blows that one out of the park.

Show boards aren't required but I'd recommend one. I'm going to let my (ohgodhelpme) still-girlfriend do mine for this year at least. Mostly because I bought her a really f'ing nice camera for christmas and I'll be damned if I'm not gonna get something out of it.

Other than that? Clay, wax and glaze the car prior to the show. Bring a bottle of detail spray with you to clean the wheels once you arrive if you're not using a trailer. You'll also probably want a lawn chair and a tent because you'll be sitting in the sun for 6-10 hrs while people wander by and ask questions.

Gee, thanks bud! :mad:


:bowrofl:

Would it be a hassle (helping the competition :p ) to let me see yours prior to the show to know the basic premise?

Well I came up with the numbers I did before contacting them. They came up with about the same thing. It was a little different because of hidden fees but still looked positive. I'll talk to a 3rd party to make sure I'm not getting shafted. Its not even like my payment is too much I was just simply going to do it because on paper it works out better for me. Seriously I'm glad your looking out for me. I'll look into this a bit more because I hate throwing money away especially if that's all this will do.

If you're not boosted I'd give myself a fighting chance but by no means a lock. If I had another 20k to drop on the car I could make it a ringer (I don't).

I may have jumped the gun. I forgot you had wheels and kvw's. The wing may help too.

It'll probably be one of you two tho.

I won't be boosted so you guys are safe. Probably not until June or July. I'm doing the adult thing and making other better financial decisions and putting money in places thatll suit me better down the road. Just at the expense of my project. The 21 year old in me wants to say **** adulthood and just blow all my dough on my car but I need to protect my future I suppose :?

You're not throwing away just money, time, research, labor, all of the things you've done/plan to do to your car will be tossed aside. For what? $50 lower payment, not worth it imo... :ugh2:

Just finish boosting it and you'll be so happy you won't even care about how much you pay for it. :tup:

I have more done then just those 3 things. :icon17:

Everything you both said in the last two posts is correct.

What's gonna be hilarious is if they say:

"And the winner is, the Black 370Z!!"

And we'll look at eachother like :icon08:

And bum rush the stage at the same time.


:inoutroflpuke:

There's no way they get nothing out of it, but if you go to a new bank who can now borrow funds at a lower rate due to the Fed, they'll get something out of it, you might get something out of it, there's pretty much never a prepayment penalty on auto loans, everyone wins except the bank you left. Banks are perfectly willing to screw one another to get your business.

Chris were talking two different scenarios homie haha. If I went with the 135 it'd be a major change. And yes I know I'm probably going to boost it still. Just brain storming and being restless that I can't work on my car haha.


And I know you have a lot done I was naming the big 3 things you have over DM

All of the screwing in America!

Nothing on my car is a surprise to anyone here I don't think. Pretty sure everyone's seen it at this point. Odds are by the time carlisle rolls around I will have the V2 dual halos in with an outside shot at the nismo RC NACA ducts/z1 brake lines but I'm at the mercy of Nissan and various race teams for that.

Right which brings me back to: "If you get a better loan rate over the same time period, then you're ok."

Why can't you work on your car now? :confused:


No worries, we actually did a quick list of our mods, and for the most part we're side by side the same car. The only real "major" difference is his is a Nismo vs my Base + Sport Package. So that's really what it will come down to.

To be honest, if we can have a Z only category and no riced out 350Z shows up, I see us taking 1st/2nd. Which will be okay with me.

I agree 100%, I'm just trying to help compare apples to apples. If you take your current car and trade it in on another car, you will finance the difference between the trade in value and the purchase price over the life of a typical auto loan, 5 years. If part of the decision-making process in a new car purchase is the loan payments, I think it's wise to examine how much of that payment decrease is simply due to extending the term. I'm not trying to pass judgement or push for a certain outcome, just trying to help with the analysis.

Exactly. Go to a lower rate 3 year loan when you're 2 years into a 5 year, win. You just gotta consider that along with all the other factors that go into the decision to purchase a car.

It's purty.

My headlights and wheels are unique or at least, different.

I'm not lowered (at all) and don't have much in the way of suspension mods unless you count my H&R spacers lol

:3

[QUOTE=XwChriswX;2248047]Why can't you work on your car now? :confused:

/QUOTE]

Its part of what I was saying above. I'm doing some other finance crap that is more important right now thatll pay off huge in a few years so instead of dumping 2-4k Intl the Z its going into other things for the next few months.

This is correct.

That's what I'm doing.

I'm going with a lower 5 year as I'm 1 year into my 6 year and Apr goes from 5% to 2.5%


Unless I are mathing wrong. Which is totally possible.lol

Also the new car really has nothing to do with lower payments it was just something that would be the case if I went that route.lol

I'm mostly looking at the new car because it'll hold 700hp with not much problem.


Only reason i m thinking of refinancing is to save me some money. I mean hell why not. Its nothing to do with lower payments I just thought it would save me something by doing it. If it really doesn't please tell me.lol

oh OH! You're going from a 6 to a 5? I thought you were going from a 5 to a 6. As long as you're ok with higher payments, you will save money over time. If you've been making extra payments, this may not be a factor at all which makes sense.

Auto loans have a huge APR jump from 5-6 years (oddly enough, not from 3-5 though). Your payments will be higher over 5 years but the interest payments will be much less.