Awwwwwyeaaaaa. Just dropped money on new tires. :|

So will mine :yum:

Will be doing the same later this month :tup:

Trying to buy spacers but need advice (see other thread). Need to order them tomorrow so I can have D&V put them on when Figure Finishing goes to fix the wheel that the dealership damaged.

DM, I don't have the H&R's, I have the Z1 spacers which are of the same quality. (25mm Type II's) But cheaper. :tup:

$1100 smackarooos!:happydance: Lucky you..

Hey EW...

what up duuuuuude?

:tup:

Brother, Im not sure if Im gonna be able to make it to Columbia tomorrow, dude the inside of my S2000 is completely gutted, Im dead serious. Before I put everything together, I'd like to insulate the inside with the crapload of GTmat I just bought.

No worries bud. Just bring it up when you're finished. I'd be interested to see how it turns out. :tup:

Dude, the seats look amazing, I really thought it out before I installed the sensors, so I wouldnt have to go back and fix something, when Im done, its gonna look like a factory installed upgrade.

Dude... STOP

I thought you were going to bring the Z if the s2k wasn't done?

Dee and anyone else that is trying to use Dynamat/GTMat/Fatmat/etc...

This stuff is designed to dampen panel resonance. It's NOT an effective non-structure-borne sound absorption or dampening material. What it is good at is adding mass to a panel to change the resonant frequency and cut back on panel noise (structure-borne.) To do this effectively, you only need to cover 25% of a panel. You don't need to cover the entire panel as that's a complete waste.

If you want to block sound, you need closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl. You place a layer of CCF on top of the panel to act as a decoupler for the layer of MLV you add on top. THAT is what blocks sound effectively.

This is a great resource for effective and efficient sound deadening: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

So if I just wanted to stop exhaust resonance from causing rattles inside the door/hatch/cabin, I should not do this you say??

Interesting read - so when I install my GTmat, I should only cover 1/4 of the trunk panel area?

The first step would be to cover 25% of the surface area of your interior panels with a dampening tile like Dynamat. That will reduce the interior panel resonance and be as effective as covering the entire interior in Dynamat.

If you want to block sound, then you need to use the CCF and MLV.

I'm not worried about sound as I like hearing my exhaust, I'm just tired of hearing rattles I can't figure out where/what they are to fix. :mad: Makes it sound like somethings wrong to people who ride along. :shakes head:

Exactly.

My feeling is that you guys are going to end up wanting to actually BLOCK some sound, in which case you'll need the CCF/MLV elements. Unfortunately this adds weight, and for maximum effect you really need to do the floor, tunnel, rear wall, and hatch.

I just want this 1 rattle in the passenger side of the hatch to go away, and another in the drivers side door. I can't figure out what they are.

There are lots of interior rattles in the Z, especially in the hatch area. Some are really hard to target and are related to the plastic trim and headliner.

Mostly I just want to cut down on drone. I love the way the exhaust sounds.

Another kickass product is 3M Thinsulate Acoustic. You can fill open spaces between panels with it and it filters a lot of noise that makes it past your sound barriers.

I'm somewhat certain it has to do with the 3rd brake light. The plug that goes to it is Extremely loose. I'm waiting it for be warm on a weekend so I can take the trim down, tape that shit down and see if it still rattles... Otherwise I have no idea what it could be...

You likely won't be able to do anything with drone with the GT Mat. You will have to fix drone by either modifying the exhaust (helmholtz resonators) or doing the entire interior with CCF/MLV to block a lot of the exhaust drone.

Since the car is a hatch, treating only the hatch floor won't do too much. The cabin is a big sound tube and without treating it all, there's limited effect.

That's a common source of hatch rattle.

I will just get some expanding foam and spray it in every little crevice I can find to restrict and adhere all free floating things that can rattle... :icon17:

I wouldn't do that. I'd get some 3M Thinsulate Acoustic off Ebay and use that to fill in all of the crevices in the hatch area.

To the google eBay! :superghey:

Done! 125 Sq ft 3M Thinsulate Acoustic Marine Automotive Sound Insulation 5 ft x 25 Ft | eBay

If you wait though I might have some extra I can sell off to you when I am done with my project. I know I'm going to have a lot of MLV left. I bought a 60"x15' roll of it and at least 100sq ft of the 3M stuff.

Sounds like a plan, I'll bring the car down to your place and you we can put it in. :tup:

I never said I wanted to do any work for you. :bowrofl:

Yes you did...



Why you delete your kind post steve?? :ugh2:

Thanks for the information Steve. Sorry to strike a nerve...:roflpuke2::roflpuke2:

:rofl2:

I just don't want you guys to waste your time/money.

The first time I ever did a sound deadening project I listened to the BS and did 100% coverage with Dynamat. What a waste.

Now I know all of the elements required for a proper deadening job. :tup:

I'm sure you do with all the bodies that get stashed in your trunk... :wtf2:

Can you show us a picture of what the rear trunk area should look like done "properly"?