Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps19044622.jpg

All done.

So it was 34* out tonight but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184*. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160*. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144*. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it.

The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300* on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260*. I was hoping to go no more than 240* so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go!


Diff finished


Pics...

Pump and lines

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps93c1ffe6.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps8706a266.jpg

Cooler with no scoop yet

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc4f51eeb.jpg

Notched out arm incase diff flexes to much.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps331bb1ff.jpg

Fill hole

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa3e133de.jpg

Scoop/cage getting painted. Extremely strong so wind can't move it at high speed.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps969133ba.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4fe57b7e.jpg

Always nice to have this kind of data, love it!

Christmas time! Beautiful parts. SPC my *** haha.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps37bfdd32.jpg

Yeah baby! Winter OEM nissan maxima wheels in a 18x7.5 +40. A nice retract of 63mm from my summer 18x10.5 +15's haha. Do they make a 63mm spacer haha?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psccee737d.jpg

So it wasn't -7 outside today so I installed some used swift springs, SPL traction and camber arms. What a PITA! Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload!

Anyways the initial drive was pretty shocking, but not after seeing camber numbers. Still body roll but you just barley touch the steering wheel and it whips into the other lane! On the track this thing is going to just dive into a corner like crazy! Initial lowering was...


BEFORE ---------------- AFTER
FL- 27.50" ------------- 26.625"= -0.875"
FR- 27.50" ------------- 26.50"= -1.0"
RL- 27.9375" ---------- 27.00"= -0.9375"
RR- 27.75" ------------ 26.9375= -0.8125"

I thought for used swifts the lowing would be more. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it settles more. My car is pretty light though so maybe that's why it sits higher. I checked camber too with my iPhone and toe with a tape measure and...

Before ------------------- After
FL/. -0.5 ---------------- -2.1
FR/. -0.8 ---------------- -1.6
RL/. -1.7 ---------------- -2.0
RR/. -1.2 ---------------- -2.1
Front Toe-
Rear Toe- in 0.125" ------------- Toe- in 0.59"

I may try again to align myself but its a pretty big PITA! If the traction arms can't mess with toe, ill make more toe plates but instead of drilling the hole center, I'll offset it to give more toe to get to zero.

Its a PITA with an impact. Easier but still slow.

First time i had to use a breaker bar over my 1/2" socket! I have a 500tq gun but the compressors at my moms. So turn by turn with me standing on the spring and collapsers i got it done. Nice leg and arm workout :tup:

2013 sport build
 

Not sure if this is correct but arent swift springs already "preloaded" and dont require settling in?

Ps love the swift and spl setup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, i am unfamiliar with how traction arms work - do they replace the need for new toe bolts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This looks nasty. why did you cut the brace like this?

Any spring will settle some. Preloaded means once installed the springs tight. Unloaded you can hold the strut in your hand and move the spring around. I'm sure the OEM is tight too since its compressed about an inch under the top hat, but the swifts 10kg vs 7 something OEM.

Still figuring that out.

Why? Why not? Its a little slit, nbd.

Nice build my friend! Im thinking on buy the same wheels enkie rpf01 but 18x9.5 & 18x10.5 +15 all arround :)