Nice build
 

I'm really digging your DIY hood man. Care to pm me sole details and measurements and grill used? Thanks:tup:

Selling these! Please buy! +15 in the fronts I think is a bad call. Check out my pics. You can see its already passed the fenders. Another 15mm I think will look bad.

Not really much to say. The measurements are what contours underneath the hood. Look under it and you'll see pretty much where to go.

Let the porting begin!!

you should replace the stock diff cover with a finned diff cover. that should also help a little.

If I got one for free I would. It'd be nice to drive it and see what the temps are, then change it and drive again. I don't think I've seen a back to back like that. If it didn't work and I paid that money and labor I'd cry haha.

Did you get around to installing the SPL rear diff bushings yet?

Yep. Biggest ******* pain ever! Used a bolt in the rear bushing and a plate on the other side with a nut and a 3 foot breaker bar on my 1/2" drive to suck the rear bushing into the subframe after it was in the freezer for a week. Took hours I think (lost all sense of time) mm by mm because every turn was like turning a few hundred pounds. Not to mention all by myself 3 feet off the ground and that god damn diff weighs 100 lbs! O and up and down, up and down to set the rear brake so I could take off and tighten the axle bolts and drive shaft bolts.

I hear and feel zero difference (but very loud exhaust). I'm glad they're there though because the OEM stuff is very soft. The whiteline rear bushing being poly will be a breeze to install!

Glad to hear you got them installed. I know every DIY I ready shows its a huge PITA to change these things out. So your saying that you hear no difference in NVH cause of your loud exhaust? You do feel a performance difference right? Such as reduction of wheel hop (if you were getting any in the first place)? Just an expensive and intense mod if your not really feeling any difference over oem. Were your oem bushings blown btw? Thanks

Yep. I may hear a little something at times like a gear whine but you listen and then it's not there. Or a rattle but then it's gone right away. My exhaust is quite in 6th at like 45mph and I hear nothing different.

No performance diff. My bushings were only 8k old though. I never had wheel hop or anything. Been on 285/35/18 HTR z3's from day one if that means anything. They don't hook real well in a drag race so maybe that's why, they just slip instead of grip.

It was but how would I know till I tried? At least I don't have to wait around now for the OEM to blow at the track.

Ok just curious cause I was debating about this mod in my G, but my oem rear diff bushings aren't blown and this mod like I stated is very labor intensive/expensive to do. Especially if there is no significant improvement. But since my oem bushings aren't blown yet then I probably shouldn't replace until they are. Just wanted to get your take on the solids too see if they were too aggressive for a street car. Do you DD your car at all or is it just straight track? Thanks again

After MONTHS of trying to figure out who was the member that made a DIY CAI....FINALLY!!... ok heres my questions, What Diameter is Z1 Post maf tubes not sure if they're 3 or 2.5"?? Also using the stock Air Box MAF location tube and having 3" in diameter before and after of course may require a tune but is there any gain with going 3" or sticking with a 2.5" diameter is a better option??

DD. I have a set of whitelines till you're ready. $80.

They fit a 2.5" OD pipe. So their ID is probably 2.65".

It shouldn't need tuned since the car will add fuel based off the MAF in the smaller tube. Will 3" add power? Idk. I'm boring out the TB's, manifold and lower runnings to increase air and hopefully power so maybe it will.

'ppreciate the input :tup: