Nissan 370Z Forum - Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2264705)

Hah, that reminds me: So my setup is already the above-pictured 20% underdrive Stillen crank pulley, and NST's 10% overdrive alternator pulley. I've been trying to figure out what belt length to use with the AC deleted (which I haven't done yet, but I can test belts). I've been trying to do the approach (was it Forged or GTM? some builder did it in some past thread) where you delete the smoother idler pulley closest to the AC, and the one that's dead in the middle of all the other pulleys: Crank -> top-center idler -> steering -> alternator -> tensioner -> Crank. Whoever did it before mentioned Gates K60500, but it was too loose by a lot (probably due to the underdrive crank). I've now tried K60480, and it was too tight (couldn't even get it on). So next up, I guess is K60490 :)

Are you doing that same belt route? Of course your lengths may not match up with mine if you have the stock alternator pulley.

I can't account for the the under drive pullies or the alternator but with my AC delete the ''only'' belt that works is a Dayco part number 5070500. Will have to order from Advance auto or AutoZone. They don't stock this belt. Takes about a day or two to get. About $35

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2264705)

So I'm using the config that Spohn went with:

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/.../ACBelt005.jpg

I might leave the idler that sits just above and to the right of the crank pulley to add a few more degrees of belt wrap to the crank.

I'm using Dayco part number 5070500 like Spohn, but he indicated that it was really tight, he had to tighten on one of the idlers to get the belt onto the thing... with the 20% underdrive, I think I'll have plenty of slack.

I'll post my findings once I get it on. If it's good for me, chances are your setup will be fine too. The 10% overdrive on the alternator will only increase the total belt path length by a couple percent, if that.

Damn, I was just about to paste this.lol

Yeah, that's the same routing I was talking about, and have been testing (with the AC still on, just with the idlers out of the way). With my pulleys (NST+10 Alternator, Stillen-20 Crank), the 0500-series belt from Gates is waaaay too loose (like, not at all functional). And the 0480 was just impossibly short, unless I tried something like you mentioned with Spohn removing an idler to install the belt. There's marks on top of the tensioner to show the correction tension range, I think even if I forced the 0480 onto there somehow it'd be too tight on that gauge. 0490 has got to be close, or there's also an 0486 I think.

Edit: all my numbers above are Gates numbers, but I think they're roughly the same on length. I did try a random Dayco 0495 from Autozone at one point, and it was tighter than the gates 0500, but still way too loose to use.

I might pick up an alternator pulley in the future if I have voltage issues.

Did you ever run without the overdrive?

Yeah, when I first switched to my trunk-mounted PC680 batt, I was on Stillen's crank and the stock alternator. It all worked relatively ok, even though I still had a radio, etc at the time. But the PC680 wasn't always getting charged very well on short trips, and I had to use a trickle charger a lot, etc. The 10% alternator from NST (and probably the current lack of a Radio, too) have made the PC680 a whole lot better. I rarely ever hook up a charger to it, unless I did something stupid to drain the battery.

My PC680 works flawless for half a year now. Course no radio or AC.

WStar, how did you get the crank pulley off?

I can't budge it...

Smarter people probably take off the radiator to hit it direct with an impact wrench. But I happen to have a post way back in my journal from my silly method: http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...html#post59428

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2267442)

Thanks man, I'm just going to have to get a buddy to come over and hold the prybar in to jam the flywheel. Wasn't able to wrangle it myself.

Excuse the use of two different type of bands... The ones with the notches in them are a real bitch to put on, so I'm planning on getting more of the plain ones.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1366116862

Here's the special tool you can use to stop the flywheel from turning, the one that the dealership uses...

Kent-Moore J-48641 VQ35 Ring Gear Stop, Infiniti

Get a load of that fuckin price.

Edit: nevermind, I was remembering wrong :P

So, for posterity's sake, I put a 12" 3/8 drive extension through the spokes of the stock pulley and braced it against the edge of the block below it to the left. That let me use a breaker (actually, the front bumper support slipped over my breaker) to loosen it up.

The Stillen install instructions tell you to torque to 33 Ft/Lbs and then make a mark on the pulley and bolt and then turn the bolt again until the marks are 90 degrees off... Which I found to be totally impossible. I used the break (sans the bumper support lmao) to turn it as far as I could and only got it about 2/3rds of the way to 90 degrees.

Wstar, were you able to?

Oh, and I got the header re-installed with some fresh gasket maker and torqued down real good. Sooo easy with the stuff taken apart. Also having them wrapped makes it pretty stress free since I'm not worried about scratching them or nicking them while moving them or tightening the fasteners.