:iagree:

Wow!

Well uh... move to Texas? lol

One was sky high, several are right at 2K and the ones I'm actually going with are considerably lower than that...

I'll stop bitching about pricing I guess!

Busy day today, but I finally got a chance to get the car up on my new jack stands (a lot higher) and get the front end torn apart.

Oh mercy. I can see her naughty bits. Nice work!

Those look like the same jack stands I have. I feel much safer under them than I did with my old ones that had a smaller base (from Sears) lol

I've got them about 6 inches higher than my old ones, and they have these cool rubber covers that grip the pinch welds really well.

That + them being so much wider at the base definitely makes them safer I would think.

Oh, and it's high enough to really use my creeper to work on it.

Oh that's perfect. The tops of my stands are big and flat so I had to saw some hockey pucks to accommodate the pinch welds.

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/...ps978c0bbc.jpg

Yeah, this is what it looks like

Wow. Damn. I am expecting around $2500 for mine as well. Fixxercask's super beautiful cage was around that.

Ordered a new crank pulley...

Pics once it's on.

Took me about an hour and a half to get this out of the car with the front all taken apart and no A/C compressor in the way. Woo.

Oh, and this is the driver's side, but that's probably obvious. :P


http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1365650740

So what ate you doing exactly?

Planning on touching up the ceramic coating, then wrapping in a high quality wrap, finishing up with a silicon sealant coating over the wrap.

This is all in effort to bring my under-hood temps back down to something reasonable.

This is in prep for my new exhaust which will also be wrapped most of the way out of the car. Want that heat to stay in the exhaust gasses instead of radiating into the car.

Secretly, this is all so I can get the car to shoot fire out of the back... jk. Mostly.

I'm thinking of buying one of these and fabricating any necessary adapters or fittings to make it work in the Z.

Fluidyne High Performance Universal/Racing Radiators - UltraRev.com

It's over twice as thick as the CSF and costs half as much. Also doesn't come with a useless AC Condenser that I have to pay for.

Edit: And according to the Fluidyne catalog, the inlet and outlet are on the correct sides of the thing, unlike that photo on the website I linked. I'll be calling the company to confirm before ordering, if I decide to move forward with it.

Hah, that reminds me: So my setup is already the above-pictured 20% underdrive Stillen crank pulley, and NST's 10% overdrive alternator pulley. I've been trying to figure out what belt length to use with the AC deleted (which I haven't done yet, but I can test belts). I've been trying to do the approach (was it Forged or GTM? some builder did it in some past thread) where you delete the smoother idler pulley closest to the AC, and the one that's dead in the middle of all the other pulleys: Crank -> top-center idler -> steering -> alternator -> tensioner -> Crank. Whoever did it before mentioned Gates K60500, but it was too loose by a lot (probably due to the underdrive crank). I've now tried K60480, and it was too tight (couldn't even get it on). So next up, I guess is K60490 :)

Are you doing that same belt route? Of course your lengths may not match up with mine if you have the stock alternator pulley.