Here's a video from the first session. The instructor had me working on a few different things.

Hi Rusty

It looks like you ended cutting the tubes on both ducts. On the right side, did you simply angle it down or down and to the grille side?

Thanks!

Mike

Nice vid Rusty, you're doing great! Seems smooth and calm and you're looking through the corners for lining up good lines, watching instructor's signals and corner workers, working the passing signals, etc. All good things!

My only $0.02 on that vid is hand (and maybe seat) position. IMHO, they should be telling you to plant your hands at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel and try to just keep them there unless a tight turn absolutely demands it. Getting this to work out for you may require adjusting your seat position backwards a little to get your knees out of the way of the lower hand, and/or adjusting steering tilt, etc. It's tricky to get the cockpit configured just right sometimes, but it really makes life easier once it's all Just Right.

ETA: Looking back at your previous vids, it seems you had your hands/seat/etc in a better position last time around. Experimenting?

Yea, I had the seat too far forward. About 3 clicks. :shakes head: Couldn't get comfortable in the seat all day. My left knee was beating off something on the door panel. Have a nice mark on the knee now. :shakes head: And my a$$ felled wedged in the seat. Just one of those days. The videos are at the end of the sessions. So I slow down and listen to the instructor a little better and have a discussion on the session. It's all about learning. ;)

The right side duct was a pita to get it angled right. It was trial and fit. I ended up cutting the duct on an angle that would allow for clearance with the reducer and hose to pass the washer bottle. Took me about 3hrs to figure it out. So take your time and look on how you want to run the hose. you may end up cutting the duct and the reducer a couple of times to get it to fit.

On the left duct. I cut it to match the right duct. Just so they look the same. ;) Oh, I used a 2 part epoxy for plastic to glue everything together. ;)

My god, you are as anal as I am! :icon18:

Again, thanks for all the help. I'm getting close.

I'm worse! :icon14:

Good for you. ;)

Here's a video from my 3rd session, at the end. Can't edit the video for the middle part. :mad: Which I did my best lap times, chasing a build mustang around. :tup: He couldn't get away from me, until he spun it.

Just curious - with the amount of track time you have been doing lately, how is the color on your calipers holding-up? There was a lot of talk awhile back that repeated heat cycles would make the bright red color turn brown.

Yours seem to be doing fine. I've got the same color done by Mike.

The color is holding just fine. :tup: My RR caliper has a stain running down it from brake fluid. :mad: I forgot to wash it off the last time I bled my brakes. :shakes head:

Glad to hear they are holding up.

Nismo ducts installed! Running the hoses next week.

Big thanks to Rusty! :tup:

:tiphat:

An alternative to cutting the duct tubes:

Speedi-Products 4 in. x 20 ft. Standard White Vinyl Flexible Hose-EX-SVH 04 at The Home Depot

Use the flex hose to avoid the washer tank and then plug the reducer into the hose. It also eliminates the need to turn down the reducers.

You have a picture on how you ran the hose around the washer bottle with the 4" hose?

No because I cut my ducts like you did. I haven't run the 2" Stillen hoses yet. I was thinking the flexible hose could be used (like maybe 6" of it) to point the reducer away from the bottle.

I was just thinking about how to do it differently and it struck me that by using some of this flexible 4" hose, it wouldn't be necessary to cut all of the duct tube off.

I think I have enough clearance to just mate up the Stillen hose to my ducts as I cut them down like yours and I positioned the ducts almost an inch closer to the grill opening than yours. I hope to install the hoses on Saturday (didn't have access to jack stands last week), so we'll find out.

Again, your help has been priceless to me. I'm just trying to think things out to possibly make it easier on others who are planning on doing this. :tup:

For ducting, I'd use the high-quality aircraft-grade stuff. It has better ribbing to hold shape, and is more everything-resistant (tear, heat, oil, etc): Ducting from Aircraft Spruce

Hi Rusty, how are the rotors holding up? Did you take any rotor temperature reading during track use?

Would love to see the improvement in heat dissipation quantitatively speaking, since that's oem nismo's weak spot.

Rotors are holding up fine. No problems with them. Have 5 trackdays on them. Going tomorrow for number 6. :D

Did a trackday yesterday. I got bumped up to Group 2 Solo. Meaning now I'm with the semi-fast with no instructor. :D The lead instructor told me at the end of the day, that next time out. If I want, I can run in Group 3. The fast crazies. :driving: LOL

Here's a video of the end of my 2nd session. :D The sound sucks on both videos. I forgot to hook up my mike. :(

And here's a video of the end of my 3rd session. :D

Thoughts on my trackdays so far. In no order.

1. Need more camber.
2. Need bigger front sway bar.
3. Ready for different brake pads with more bite. The Yellowstuff is alright for starting out. But with more speed, need more brake pad.
4. Oil temps never went above 220F. The outside temps can be 70F to 96F. Oil temps stayed the same. Using the 34 row Z1 cooler.
5. Got to do something with the YAW sensor.
6. Need a different LSD. Feel the stock unit starting to die at the end of each session.
7. The Mich PSS are working well. Need to play around with air pressure more.
8. The engine can take alot of abuse. I've seen 8,500 rpms a few times. :eek: Driver error. :mad:
9. Would like a lighter flywheel and clutch. So that the engine can pick up rpms quicker.
10. Driver still has brain farts. :shakes head:
11. Remember to hook up the mike to the GoPro. :shakes head:
12. No fuel starve with phuck's kit. :)

Just unplug it and be done with it. The event instructors are always leery about telling people to disable traction control because they don't want to be held liable when you wipe your car out, but... the thing really needs to be completely disabled anywhere beyond a very beginner level in practice, at least on this car. It's just ugly and intrusive, and it still screws up your manual control of rear wheel slip on corner exits when the VDC button is turned off (because "VDC Off" doesn't disable ABLS, but pulling the Yaw Sensor does!)

Tire pressures end up being pretty dynamic based on conditions anyways. Get an IR thermo and shoot them at the center and sides (of the tread face) and aim to get even temps all across the surface, and/or chalk-mark the sidewall up onto the tread to see if you're using it right up to the limit of the tread.

Very :eek: - don't blow up your oil pump!

Going from bikes to cars for trackdays. It's a different beast. LOL

Here's a video from my first session from last Tuesday. I caught a purple SRT8 that wouldn't let my pass. So I pitted in to let him go.

Took the Nismo on a long weekend. Only to have it break down. :mad: Think maybe the stock fuel pump went belly up. I can hear phunk's fuel pump prime. But can't hear the stock fuel pump prime. :shakes head: Had to rent a u-haul truck and trailer to get home. :mad: Soon as I get some time. I'll check it out in more detail.

Ouch, sorry man. Did you take a peek at the wiring situation? I know you have to cut the power wire to the stock fuel pump and make a 3-way junction (original path + a side feed to the relay for the new pump), any chance something went wrong with that and the stock pump just isn't getting power?

How much is a day at beaver run? I haven't been there in a car before, just racing on the bike. Do they have a website with a schedule?

How much you running now?

What's the size now?

I didn't see it, light weight pulley set?

Haven't really gotten into it yet. Back at work doing 12hr nights. So next Monday and Tuesday are my next days off. That's when I'll dig into it.

HPDE is $185.00 for the day. They run 3 groups. Group 1 is for the beginners with an instructor. Group 2 is a step up with an instructor. But they can turn you loose with no instructor IF they feel if you have progress enough. That's where I'm at. Group 3 is for the FAST guys that race mostly. Groups 1 and 2 run in the morning. Group 3 is in the afternoon.

Here's Pitt Race's web site. ;)

Pittsburgh International Race Complex

1. I'm at stock camber with a 275/35-19 Mich PSS on the front and 325/30-19 Mich PSS on the rear. Need camber arms so that I can adjust it to where I want it.

2. Have the stock Nismo sway bars on the car. Going to take Dwnshifts advice and go with a stiffer front bar. The Hotchkis is the stiffest. I'll try that next.

3. No lightweight pulley set-up yet.

Wow not a bad price.

You think you'd get better handling with different tires? Keep reading square is better and since stock is 30mm difference and you being at 50mm, seems like a big gap. I'm not sure what my fronts can pack but I'm thinking square now. 285 max because of my 9.5" wheel.

Wonder what whitelines 27mm solid 2 way adjustable bar is, didn't see it on their site.

The diameter of my tires are about equal. 26.6 front and 26.7 rear. My rims are 9.5x19 front and 12x19 rear. Thinking on going with the Mich Pilot Sport Cup+ or the Pirelli P Zero Corsa tires next.

Good news. The Nismo is fixed. Self-inflicted problem. :shakes head: When I installed phunk's road race fuel pump. On one of fuel lines. Where it slides over a fitting. I didn't have the hose clamp up far enough on the hose. This allowed the hose to slowly slip off over a period of time. When the hose came off. It quite feeding fuel to the engine.

:yum:

Should include the Dunlop Maxx Race on that list too. Maxx Race and Cup + are both OEM for 991 GT3.

You just can't settle for the normal best, you must have the absolute best, don't ya?

[QUOTE=cv129;2475004]:yum:

Should include the Dunlop Maxx Race on that list too. Maxx Race and Cup + are both OEM for 991 GT3.

They don't have the sizes I want. :(


You just can't settle for the normal best, you must have the absolute best, don't ya?[/QUOTE]

Busted my a$$ for alot years. Now all of that hard work is paying off. :D I can get what I want now. :tup:

Since there is no fuel pressure tap for a gauge to check fuel pressure at the engine. phunk put this together for me. :tiphat: This was to help me figure out my fuel problem. With everything working correctly. I have 65 lbs of fuel pressure at an idle.

Just ordered these parts from corner3garage. :D This is phase 1 of the front.

SPL Pro Suspension 370z/G37 Front Upper Arms

SPL Front Impact Bushings Z34

SPL Front Lower Arm Bushings (Front) Z34

Phase 1 huh.....lol how many phases are there