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M.Bonanni's 370Z Project "Born Again"

I thought alot of the fuel starvation issues were solved from the 350 days. Can't quite remember the guy but he was based in Chicago I believe. He had alot

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Old 06-16-2011, 08:26 PM   #481 (permalink)
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I thought alot of the fuel starvation issues were solved from the 350 days. Can't quite remember the guy but he was based in Chicago I believe. He had alot of experience with fuel systems. Very reputiable person. Maybe it will ring a bell?
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:42 PM   #482 (permalink)
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I never had any fuel starvation issues with my old 350Z, definitely nothing at all like we see in the 370Z.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:13 AM   #483 (permalink)
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Hey Mike, did you install those studs yet? I was wondering where they take the measurement from as it seems to vary. I measure the stockers as 40mm including knurl but not including head, so these would be +20mm?
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:58 AM   #484 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
Hey Mike, did you install those studs yet? I was wondering where they take the measurement from as it seems to vary. I measure the stockers as 40mm including knurl but not including head, so these would be +20mm?
No I have not installed them yet, but yeah they are +20mm over stock. They also make a 50mm stud which is +10mm over stock.
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:42 PM   #485 (permalink)
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FWIW, I went with the 50mm on the fronts and the 60mm on the rear, with my 18x10 + 18x11 Forgestars (maybe Mike remembers the offset those were made in by default from Forgestar, I don't at the moment), and using Muteki's little short open-ended tuner nuts.

The 50mm was just enough in the front (the stud sticks out past the nut by a thread or two, and still easy access). The 60mm was way more threads than necc in the rear, but the rear lug holes are also very deep, so the longer stud helps guide you down the deep hole without banging up the paint anyways. If I had it to do over again, I'd pick the same sizes again.
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:07 PM   #486 (permalink)
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FWIW, I went with the 50mm on the fronts and the 60mm on the rear, with my 18x10 + 18x11 Forgestars (maybe Mike remembers the offset those were made in by default from Forgestar, I don't at the moment), and using Muteki's little short open-ended tuner nuts.

The 50mm was just enough in the front (the stud sticks out past the nut by a thread or two, and still easy access). The 60mm was way more threads than necc in the rear, but the rear lug holes are also very deep, so the longer stud helps guide you down the deep hole without banging up the paint anyways. If I had it to do over again, I'd pick the same sizes again.
Thanks, that's was the direction I thinking about heading. I have the same wheel setup and currently have the H&R 55mm studs and the same lugs as you. I like to replace my studs every couple of years and lugs every year as they get a lot of abuse from swapping wheels back and forth so I was trying to decide what to use this time. ARP has a big reputation but there is only one size available that fits and they are 75mm long. Nismo is my next choice.
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Old 06-22-2011, 02:56 PM   #487 (permalink)
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18x10+34, don't know about the 11s
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:21 AM   #488 (permalink)
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mike whats up man! i just bought a personal nismo 370z today to have the shop play with, you gonna be at the next redline?
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:28 AM   #489 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ethan@a.m. View Post
mike whats up man! i just bought a personal nismo 370z today to have the shop play with, you gonna be at the next redline?
Nice! I don't think I will be there unfortunately. The Berk car is getting some work done to it and it wont be ready. I have been looking for another car to drive at the event but haven't had any luck. I still may go down there on Sunday just to hang out if I get my brake duct kit done on Saturday.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:25 PM   #490 (permalink)
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Making progress! Brake ducts are in the assembly phase (although I still have to figure out how to route the driver's side). I also made some cardboard templates for some oil cooler ducting to force more air through the cooler. Hoping to have both these projects done this weekend. First track day July 10th at Buttonwillow with Extreme Speed.

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Old 06-30-2011, 08:35 PM   #491 (permalink)
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Looks like you're off to a good start! Interested to see how it ends up. As for the oil cooler ducting it might help a little, but I don't think there is an air cooler big enough to keep this car cool. I think I will eventually go to a oil/water cooler and let the giant radiator do the work.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:48 AM   #492 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
Looks like you're off to a good start! Interested to see how it ends up. As for the oil cooler ducting it might help a little, but I don't think there is an air cooler big enough to keep this car cool. I think I will eventually go to a oil/water cooler and let the giant radiator do the work.
I think it will help a lot more than it seems like it will when you look at fluid dynamics. Air travels through the least path of resistance and the oil cooler is a path of resistance, as is the radiator so air will find any way to go around it. If you block off all of the little holes around the radiator and duct the oil cooler, you're forcing more air to go around it. Did this on the Berk 135i with exceptional results. Plus it is A LOT cheaper haha. Fingers crossed that it works well enough but we'll have to see.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:51 AM   #493 (permalink)
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If I can drop my oil temp by 20 degrees I'll be very happy. If it works for you I'll definitely be trying it out!
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:16 PM   #494 (permalink)
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Photo of said ducting during test fitment before it was painted...

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Old 07-05-2011, 01:44 PM   #495 (permalink)
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Started a 3rd project thread for Version 3.0 of this build...

M.Bonanni Project 370Z V3.0 | Clean Slate
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