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yeah my mouseover menu on that site is handled using only CSS. I've used a lot of those java scripts for things like that though. here's the ONLY menu image
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yeah my mouseover menu on that site is handled using only CSS. I've used a lot of those java scripts for things like that though.
here's the ONLY menu image used for it. ![]() and the code: Code:
<ul id="menu"> <li id="abo"><a href="/aboutus/">About Us</a></li> <li id="pro"><a href="/products/">Products</a></li> <li id="ser"><a href="/services/">Services</a></li> <li id="lin"><a href="/linecard/">Line Card</a></li> <li id="new"><a href="/newdealer/">New Dealer</a></li> <li id="con"><a href="/contact/">Contact</a></li> </ul>
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers Last edited by vipor; 02-15-2010 at 11:18 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Ok enough computer jargon, back on topic.
![]() A slightly used set of StopTech slotted front and OEM rear rotors on their way thanks to ChrisSlicks!
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MikeBonanni.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MikeBonanni Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MBonanni36 Function > Form |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 30,879
Drives: 370z
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Are there better rotors that work with the stock BBK yet, without having to buy a full kit?
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theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram |
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
nice you found some
![]() You run upgraded pads and fluids on your Z right? When I was tracking my car I noticed a little pedal flutter (not ABS, I know what that feels like) later in the day but I never had any fade. They got very firm but still bit well after maybe 10 mins of full speed driving too, which I blame the pads for.
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#5 (permalink) | ||
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Quote:
Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Even with the Carbos you run the same rotors? No wonder you need new ones. I've heard that with them you have to seat the pads every time you switch or you'll have issues with residue.
Do my assumptions on the issues I'm having seem correct? It definitely made me trust my car a little less when powering into turns and I want to avoid it next time.
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Quote:
Its hard to say what your car is doing just based off of that info without feeling it myself, but if your pedal didn't get soft then its most likely the pads.
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MikeBonanni.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MikeBonanni Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MBonanni36 Function > Form |
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
yeah I had a little bounce while light braking (fluid) and then after a while it would get real firm (pads)
I'll probably be getting something a little more double duty in the pads dept. I'd heard the 600 fluid is prone to holding moisture and requires bleeding and refilling from time to time... ?
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Quote:
![]() I have not bled/changed my Motul fluid since March with no issues.
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 655 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You might want to do that when you swap the rotors on. A year is the absolute max you want to run a high temp fluid. After 1 year you're probably at about 2% moisture and boiling point has been reduced 35%.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Quote:
I just remembered though, I did swap the fluid when I changed the lines in September. Forgot about that.
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MikeBonanni.com Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MikeBonanni Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MBonanni36 Function > Form |
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 655 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nah, every event is overkill, save that for the teams with a full crew. Speed bleeders make it pretty easy but it's a pain to get to the inside bleeder especially on the rear.
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
sweet thanks
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#14 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ]
Age: 43
Posts: 13,531
Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB
Rep Power: 50 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Good thing you're not driving your Z then anymore
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#15 (permalink) |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Some quick photos after some prep for an upcoming car show this Sunday.
Finally put my EVO-R side blades back on the car after one got violently ripped off during an off-track excursion at Buttonwillow back in November. The one that came off the car is virtually un-damaged which is awesome seeing that it was also run over by my back tire after being ripped from the side skirt. I think the look of the side blades really helps with the wing and the overall look of the car, way more so than they did without the wing I think. Now I just need a front lip to finish the "time attack" look. Also lowered the car about 1/2" all around and re-adjusted my alignment back to street specs so the wheels look more flush. Found some 6mm spacers in my garage from my 350Z so I threw those on the rear wheels too. Also obviously removed all of the stickers. I think it looks soooooo much better without stickers, but unfortunately that is one of the drawbacks to having sponsors. I have an appointment with 702 Graphics tomorrow to get the car re-stickered, but this time it will be a much more minimalist look compared to my last few vinyl layouts. The decals is the last thing that will happen to the car before Sunday's Hellaflush 3.5 / Berk Technology Charity Ride-A-Long event. My StopTech slotted front rotors and replacement OEM rear rotors are due to arrive Monday so those will go on next week. I also want to get around to installing the SPC Performance rear toe bolts I have had sitting in my garage forever. That will allow me to lower the car some more in the rear while still being able to keep within factory toe specs. I still have an NST pulley kit in my parts bin that I have yet to install as well. Not going to tackle that one myself though without a lift so thats still on hold. ![]() ![]()
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