Easy night tonight. Prepped the bottom bracket to be welded tomorrow. I used a smaller angled piece of aluminum and cut it to length. I drilled out a couple holes. 90 degree angle was not correct so the 90 was put into the clamp and turned into a 45ish. The aluminum was smashed flat with a hammer. It turned out fairly well when I placed it on the radiator. there's only a tiny gap. When we tack it up tomorrow, the 45ish will be squeezed tight to the bottom of the core support.

I keep calling the stock aluminum chunk a core support. I don't know the name for it other than it was used in conjunction with the core support. I'm winging names here, ok? lol

Wow, I just received a text saying my Fragola shipment will be here tomorrow. Looks like I can wrap up the catch can and coolant system!

https://bz7ylw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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Last pic is a great shot. :tup: moving forward man. You better have this thing rolling for the Spring/opening of driving season meetup at my place.

Thanks man. I honestly don't see why it couldn't be ready next spring. The goal is to keep pressure on the build until complete. Heck, I try getting out to the shop to do one/two small things just to keep momentum.

I probably should make a list of the next set of things to get done... I'm pretty sure you guys MIGHT have picked up on this... but I tend to go all over the place and I also go on extended tangents until I hit a mental stopping point where I feel satisfied/completed. The carbon fiber hood excursion was a pretty good example. lol. Well, TBH the whole build reflects my personality.... Didn't really think about that until just now.

Welded up the bottom mount. My buddy did... I watched and learned. After he welded that up, wanted to fix how the top mount aligned with the bar. The top was slit and then I mashed the bar back with a hammer. after that it was welded.

The fittings came in so I doubled back to the house to pick them up and then came back to the shop to run the oil catch lines. Of course I ordered the wrong ORB fittings for the back of the breathers so I couldn't attach the whole thing like planned.

The lines were wrapped up on the coolant, because that only needed one fitting (previously mentioned).

The crash bar needs to come back off for a little grinding and paint... but it's pretty much done. I took some of the tape and plastic off so I could get some decent pictures. I've got to say, It was worth the extra efforts.

https://a57blw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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https://bj7wlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bj7ulw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Filled in a gap with metal instead of attempting to fill a large gap with weld. While setting up the crash bar in the vice I managed to slice my finger open. That's why I have a shop bandage on. Which is ironic, because I was grinding it for paint and so that it doesn't happen.

So the coat of paint is possible temporary because the crash bar will likely get powder coated. Also, I need to grind a few spots back to bare metal and weld tabs on for the air box to the radiator (eventually).

Ordered a couple -12orb to -10an for my Motion Raceworks billet valve breathers. Also, 8 1/4NPT SS bungs are FINALLY coming for my EGT (exhaust gas temp) sensors. Those were ordered in February, covid messed up the supply chain big time for that. Speaking of what's not here... Remember when I ordered my K&N filters? Those are not here yet either. Oh well.

Not sure if I said this before, but I've been waiting on Brian Tooley shaft mounted rockers. I need shaft mounted rockers to prevent deflection/movement on the pushrods. Well, if they don't come through... I'm going to order some of these.
LS Series Chevy GM Casting Cathedral port

I also need to order one more item for my engine too. Crank scraper w/ attached windage tray. Improved Racing has a great option.
3.622" Stroke LS, Vortec Engine Crank Scraper & Windage Tray Kit EGM-73X

https://ap4pgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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https://ap4kgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

If you tried to fill in that gap. Most likely it would have distorted. It can be done. Put a piece of copper behind it and use it for a back up bar. (The back up bar is to keep the puddle from falling out.) Then slowly weld a little and let it cool. And do it again.

Is that your “Nookie” finger :ugh2:

Checked on crash bar. I had to scuff and paint again. I hung the bar on forklift pegs for a respray. Coverage was way better this time.

Exciting stuff. Took longer to drive to the shop.

https://cj5upa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bz52pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://cj5vpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Turned out nice. :tup:

Thanks man! I appreciate that, and all the other assistance I get on here. It's great getting additional perspective from all you guys.

So...

I'm attempting to give some thought in next steps for my build. A few things came to mind:

• Oil lines
• Oil accumulator/Accusump
• Clearview remote filter mounting
• Intercooler mounts
• Oil cooler/mount
• Airbox ducting.
• Transmission cooler lines and mount
• Steering cooler (reuse Setrab 34 row?)
• Fuel lines
• Fuel filter mount (need another ID750f because there will be a twin filter setup on the back of the firewall for accessibility)
• Crank Scraper /w Windage tray
• ICT pickup tube billet secure mount
• Receive custom oil pan (pull engine)
• Power Steering line
• Hose tie down solution

Couple interesting items in there. I'm thinking of a way to mount the oil accumulator directly behind the v-mount, directly at the V or just above. It would be a short run of line and it would keep the weight low. Not that it weighs a ton, but all of it adds up!

The Clearview filter needs to be mounted where the batter use to be. A trap door needs to be made so I can access the bottom side of the filter through the wheel well. The trap door will also keep the filter safe from being punctured.

I have a Setrab oil cooler but I think it's going to be swapped for a CSF 8066
https://csfrace.com/csfs-new-line-of...l-oil-coolers/. The 8066 is 20" long so it will fit nice in the ducted area.

It is now looking like a metal break is required for both the Clearview filter box and the air duct.

Out of all those items. The very first thing that needs to happen is mounting for the A2W IC and cold side ducting.

If my oil pan is done in the next month or so... this will all line up well.

SO, that's the near future path... until it isn't.

I can also skip back to the hotside once the bandsaw is operational (yes, still waiting on that). Also, I need a long electrical cord to lift my car on the hoist. Yeah, you read that right. That's a reason why my car has been stationary lower on the hoist.

So all in all... the items listed are not that bad. It's clearly not a complete list of items either. Electrical w/ ECU needs to be completed. That will have a laundry list of sub items. The items in the bullet list are mostly in my possession.

Random post... but aren't these all.

You got a 220 outlet near the lift? I think I have a 10-12'ft 10awg cable with a plug on one end you can have.

I have a 15' one right now. I think they need a 25' deal. $$$$$ appreciate the offer though!

Well hell, splice em together and you got the 25'er! :tup: :icon17:

Man... I had the biggest day planned out. I bought a break, aluminum sheet, rivits/rivnut and sheers. I was going to get my airbox started.

Let me rewind a little. Yesterday I used some angle stock and flat stock to make a skeleton structure for the aluminum sheet. The flat stock was braised to the angle stock. That worked great.

Today I wanted to add a bit more strength to the aluminum angle stock so I attempted to braise the square aluminum stock to the angle stock. That was a complete dud. I figured, "hey, this is a great time to TIG", it's in a hidden area. I used some scrap of the exact stock I was planning to weld up. I intentionally went hard on the amps in some areas and light in other areas. I felt comfortable enough to do my actual piece, so I did.

The welds turned out good enough for my angle stock and square stock. The thickness of aluminum was different so I needed to start on the thicker material first and then move up to the thinner stuff. Near the end I was using a bit less filler rod.

While welding the square stock to the angle stock, the braised aluminum piece fell off. That's fine. I really wanted to TIG it anyway. Well, Turns out the thin aluminum stock is a real bastard. Also, my welder started acting up near the end. I think the tungsten was contaminated. After about four solid attempts at getting the flat stock welded up, I threw in the towel. My needs were out pacing my skills. I needed my buddy's help to wrap up.

Between getting the supplies and welding, my day of "getting stuff done" was reduced to getting supplies, welding one square stock to angle stock, welding one piece of flat stock and then not quite getting the other done.

The direction is great... but man, my idea out pace my skills. Obviously I need practice. It is what it is.

First couple pictures are my crashbar finished and mounted.

https://bp50pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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https://ap5vpa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ap53pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ap52pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ap50pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

BTW, that angle stock that's bolted to the car is STRONG with the square stock welded inside. I think I could stand on it. The A2W intercoolers might have mounting at the front, which is why I needed something a bit thicker there.