Nissan 370Z Forum - Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

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- - Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump (http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-gallery/129437-mr-g-brettins-slow-motion-leg-hump.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3983622)

I don't see a drain plug in the front section of the oil pan. By the looks of that front section. You will have about a quart of oil laying in it.

Yeah. That's on order. double drain. The oil pan also has to come off to have a section coped out for the starter bolt. There's no way im pulling the engine, pan and then starter just for a change.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin (Post 3983722)

Yeah. That's on order. double drain. The oil pan also has to come off to have a section coped out for the starter bolt. There's no way im pulling the engine, pan and then starter just for a change.

Be thankful that you're not working on a Bugatti. Think there is around 18 or so oil drain plugs. :icon14:

Just got this image in from the powder coater. :)

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My buddy Kirk is working on a fender and bumper badge for my car. A billet option would be bad a$$... but it's in early early development. So, you get to see the first 3d printed potato photo of a badge.

The pan was fixed to allow starter removal. An additional drain will be added and a -16 oil drain in the front. Back off to the welder. I also gave him my swirl pots to have -16 bungs welded on. This also reminds me that a -16 bung needs to be welded onto my radiator.

To make sure no aluminum burrs go in the intake, I hit it with "uncle bumble fcuk", 180grit dingle ball that went balls deep. I still need to go back and clean up the middle section with a long die grinder bit.

To keep the difficult stuff to a minimum, I decided to clean up the intake. It was scuffed with a red pad for a few hours and then scuffed with a black pad for a few hours. I then took the intake home and hit it with Eagle One Never Dull ... which made a mirror finish. I'm not quite done buffing it. Also, I didn't think it would go mirror that fast. Not that 5hours of cleaning is fast.

Lastly I decided to clean up the k member with some degreaser since it was out. Then me... being me... I ordered some Moog wheel hub assemblies because it's 95% disassembled. Then... the hampster kicked into over drive and thought it would be a good idea to reach out to SPL to see if they want to do a light sponsorship (I offered to pay for the parts, I don't expect free stuff). I offered them 10's of views with my YouTube channel and IG posts. ... pretty much what I do with all my stuff. I'm not a great sales man am I? Oh, I also gave them this link to this page So they will also see how deep the rabbit hole goes.

SPL - If you are reading this. Please look at the tags at the bottom of this page for additional information.

Happy Tuesday everyone.

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I would stay away from Moog parts. They don't have a good reputation anymore. The guys on the Power Wagon forum won't use anything with the word Moog on it.

To really polish the aluminum. You should try Flitz polish. I think it's better then Never-Dull. I have a 2 lb can of it. :tup:

https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Plastic...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3984260)

Well shoot. The wheel hubs are on their way already. I guess we'll see how they do.

I need to hit the intake another time yet. I was burning out last night. I'll try making my Never-Dull work because I already own it. lol. but! thanks for that heads up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin (Post 3984283)

Never-Dull works well on brass belt buckles. I used to use that stuff while I was on active duty, until I bought anodized buckles. :tup:

Beck-Arnley for the hubs...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ghostvette (Post 3984285)

Never-Dull works well on brass belt buckles. I used to use that stuff while I was on active duty, until I bought anodized buckles. :tup:

Beck-Arnley for the hubs...

SKF bearing if you can find them.

IG@gbrettin

Oil pan on and finished! Double drain, -16 turbo drain, -10 feed and send for remote oil filter/cooler/Accusump and two studs added to the block so that I can use two nuts in a tight location. WHEW! That's a lot for an aluminum oil pan. Huge shot out to @independenteng for making this happen

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The pan is finally done and my swirl pots all have -16 bungs. That's all I have to say about that.

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MORE video for all of you, and the edits are terrible too. You get what you pay for... so shut up and enjoy the show.

This just in from the powder coater and hot off Amazon truck.

Looks like I have some work to do tomorrow... Push rod measurements, Wheel bearing and dampener removal/install. Of which only 1 will likely get started... lol

I'm going with pushrods. So I can order them

-Edit

I'm for sure going with that accent color. It looks amazing in person and it will look awesome on the turbo housing.

--Edit Edit

The wheel bearings are being done because "since I'm in there..." That would be a budget killer if I followed a budget. I'd prefer not to.

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Here's the KITS you need from Z1. They have the o-ring for between the halves.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...it-p-6891.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3984999)

Here's the KITS you need from Z1. They have the o-ring for between the halves.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...it-p-6891.html

Thanks dude.

Also. You have done an SPL upgrade on your lower control arms right? Worth it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin (Post 3985084)

Thanks dude.

Also. You have done an SPL upgrade on your lower control arms right? Worth it?

My 2 cents on the lower bushings. Yea, they are worth it. You be surprised at how much freer the suspension moves with the SPL bearings.